Advice for taking out engine

[MartinP]

Okay - if the compression test that I'm going to do tomorrow confirm that there is a problem, I'm going to pull the engine next week. Does anyone have any advice for doing this? My plan is to put the back of the car up on ramps and have a crate and a couple of trolley jacks waiting to take the engine when it is lowered down. As to what needs to be disconnected, I was just going to work my way through the process as described in the manual...

Thanks
Martin

[Nige]

I find axle stands easier as you can remove the wheels for better access, decent high lift trolley jack helps, if you don't have a smooth surface to move the trolley jack about with the engine on top a nice big sheet of ply or mdf on the floor helps no end.

Things to disconnect, heater cable/flexi tube, fuel line, dynamo harness and throttle cable. Air filters sometimes get in the way, depends what you have got fitted.

If you find that once you've lower the engine down and it still doesn't clear the rear apron you can gain extra height by lifting the car just forward of the rear torsion bar with a big lump of wood between the car chassis and jack.

[912uk]

blimy sounds like you have more stuff than the Yanks in Irak!!

two axles stands one trolly jack, mug of tea biscuits and a lady freind to help and offer visable advise of , IT'S TOUCHING !!! ( the body work!! )

get it up nice and high.. taller axle stands

use rope to support the gearbox from top of each of the rear struts in the engine bay, under the box and up on to the other strut.

Undo front wires take a photo first

undo the fuel line stick a 6mm bolt in the fuel line

Undo Accerator rod

Take weight of engine
undo front engine bolts to bar
lower down alittle then undo the bolts at the top of the engine at the back

lower alittle more

once you can see they are nice and free undo the bottom two

make sure the gearbox is now nice and supported on that rope I said to put around it..

then lower the engine alittle more and ( which is By now supported on the jack ( wood and oil cover plate )

get hold of the main fan housing and wiggle the engine back to wards the rear it should come free alittle and then it's the playing game of wiggling the engine and lower it at the same time.. to the floor. and then from under the rear valance..

if your worried then remove the rear valance..

also be careful not to lower the gear box too much you could bend the gear selector

I am sure I have missed a few bits it's not difficult have fun?

When you doing it? your not that far from me I think? Southampton

[Gilbert '71 T]

Hi Martin, firstly I hope your compression results don't require this, but if they do then I have some experience with this when helping out Mark....

before you have it in the air disconnect the shift rod coupling to shaft on gearbox in the centre tunnel

once you have the car up in the air disconnect the following:

Battery
Air cleaners
Fuel line and plug it
Coil wires
Generator wires
heater hose and cable connections underneath
throttle link from gearbox to behind engine
four gearbox to engine mounting nuts/bolts
rear overiders and license plate panel (good for extra clearance)

raise jack to take weight of the engine and loosen the two rear engine mounts

lower engine about 1-1.5"'s and get some rope around the geabox bellhousing and loop/tie it to the suspension tops. (at this point you will not damage the shift rod beacuse you already undid the coupler)

raise engine back up and tighten rope if you can to support the gearbox.

completely remove the rear mounting bolts.

wiggle the motor backwards away from the gearbox, and once seperated lower and pull out from underneath the back of the car (you may need to raise the car higher at this point)

It took Mark and I less than one hour I'm sure, so on your own being methodical you should have it out in 90 mins easily.

Pretty sure that was it, but if I've missed anything important I'm sure someone will chip in.

Good luck.

[Gilbert '71 T]

hahaa I see Mark was posting as I was, our descrptions are almost identical so hopefully you'll get the jist of how it's done.

[Nige]

better still and quicker fasten a sturdy rope around the back of the engine and wrap it around a few times, making sure you have kept one end long enough 4-5m ideally. Now this part is key, tie with your bestest ever double knot the loose end around a lamp post, the concrete streetlight ones are best. Then when you have checked your knots and rope for taughtness start the engine up, pop it in first, rev the nuts of it and drop the clutch as fast as you can. Hey presto within 1-2 seconds your engine will be removed, ready and waiting with the rope still attached to help lifting on your favourite work bench.

That's how the Pro's do it mate, come see yer Dad.

[Gary71]

Remove mounting bolts and watch your feet don't get crushed

[MartinP]

Thanks for all of those suggestions! The ones that were serious were helpful - the ones that weren't at least made me chuckle!

Slight development: Max at Revival is going to have a look at it first and give me a diagnosis. At least then I will have a second opinion before I rip the car to bits!

[Evil J Guano]

I would chock the front wheels too, don't want it falling off the axle stands by rolling forward when back wheels are in the air and therefor no handbrake.

If you take off the air filters make sure you plug up the carb intakes.

Take your time and get a mate to help, main thing I found hardest in the beginning was getting car high enough to get it out.

[912uk]

those stands you can see ( yellow ) in Gav's pic there are the ones to have they are taller..

I now use a motorcycle lift for the engine and this makes it so!! much better in and out. 30 mins on the floor if that..