Brake upgrade ???

Jez 356 · Post by **Jez 356** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 11:16 am

Hi all

I have been out quite a lot with the family in the 356A T1 recently. However the main problem I seem to face constantly is that when braking hard it loves to pull to the right into on coming traffic.

I have constantly tried to sort this but adjusting the brakes and bleeding them etc.... and it was fine when it was MOTd last month, but it seems to like to try to catch me out when I do not need it !!!

One thought is to upgrade to discs up front as this should banish the pulling problem - right?

If this is the case is anyone aware of a way of doing this retaining the standard stud pattern etc.......... ?

Also how would this affect the value and originality of the car ???

Thanks for any help

sprintstar67 · Post by **sprintstar67** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:20 pm

CSP (Custom Speed Parts) from Germany have them with a wide five pattern, their agent in the UK is Machine 7
About £700 but that includes everything, even a new master cylinder.
Cheaper than replacing the stock bits anyway!!!

Rustbucket · Post by **Rustbucket** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 1:22 pm

pointing out the simplest answer here- but you have checked your tyres and pressures, yes ?
if its pulling to the right then something is up with the left side- also try replacing the flexible hose too- they can get clogged like arteries = unequal pressure...........

cubist · Post by **cubist** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 2:31 pm

Or, fit C rotors and run Fuchs!

Jez 356 · Post by **Jez 356** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:09 pm

Thanks for this info

I will check the tyres pressures first and work my way through the system

Also has anyone used CSP produts - I am sure if they are German they will be top quality due to their tough MOT standards ??

Many thanks for these responses

shambly · Post by **shambly** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 4:42 pm

I have CSP discs front and rear on my replica. The quality is faultless, and braking power excellent. They now do vented fronts and uprated callipers too.

I also have their uprated master cylinder but i'll give them a black mark for the approach they took to adapting the fluid handling to two front outlets (the mechanical aspects are again faultless) - couldn't get the banjo to seal no matter what I tried (and nor could a fellow builder). Plumbed it differently in the end - made easier by the fact I run a dual remote servo anyhow (so had to split the front brakes after the servo, not before)

I have also found ordering direct from CSP in Germany cheaper in the past.

Simon

Graham · Post by **Graham** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 6:54 pm

I still think a well set up 356 drum brake will stop the car almost good as the later "C" disc type.
If the car is pulling you should check the free movement of the wheel cylinders,they have a soft metal insert behind the rubber gaitor that can seize up,also take the drums off and see how much of the brake shoe is coming into contact with the drum,I sometimes linish the brake shoe,then drive the car and re-check to get equal contact.
Also what are the condition of the brake hose's?,old rubber hose's can block/break up causing fluid resrictions.
Hope thats of some help.

outlawco · Post by **outlawco** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:32 am

I have a disc brake conversion on my car and we have sold 18 sets with only good results-absolutely brilliant if you change the supplied pads to something good like Mintex or Ferodo. (if you want to try it call me) Possibly you have a partially siezed cylinder, imploding flexible lines tend to hold the brakes on not off. Or grease on the drum-take it off and have a look after your tyre check. Peter Andrews

buzz808 · Post by **buzz808** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 10:10 am

we came across the same problem on a 54,it turned out to be an oval drum,as everone else says though flexi hoses can cause a lot of problems,also try swapping dums over ,we used to do this on old splitscreen vans somtimes with amazining results,also if it then grabs the other side its a good chance its the drum at fault,as for the csp kits fitted a few and are very good
alex

rmc

Jez 356 · Post by **Jez 356** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 1:56 pm

Great

Thanks for all your feedback

Looks like I have a bit of work to do !

Anyway, thanks again

All the best

Jez 356 · Post by **Jez 356** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:31 am

Guys

Going through the front end in my head, thinking about what else might be showing age and thus not being 100% when in the braking zone. I bought the car 8 years ago, it was from California and had been imported about 6 months before.

About a year later I was cleaning up the gearbox and changing the boots and found - shock horror - Half of Orange County in the drive shaft boots - sand of all things.............. I have rectified this for now but think a rebuild will be on the cards in the near future.

Anyway I was also thinking that the tyres have not been changed and are at least 8 years old from a dry climate and could be flexing at different rates producing the dive to the right - I suppose a test is to swap them over and then do a test drive as well ???

Regards Jeremy

cubist · Post by **cubist** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 12:52 pm

Jez if it's a Cali car, does it have 356 large drums on the rear or has it had smaller beetle drums fitted? A common swap over there but does tend to make the front grab quite fiercely unless backed-off a click on the front adjusters. I might be wrong of course...

greg356 · Post by **greg356** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 4:09 pm

Have you checked that the brake linning is glued/ riveted to the shoe. I had the same problem with pulling to one side. Have now fiited 356C disc all around great

cubist · Post by **cubist** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 6:14 pm

And your old drums now stop me slamming through hedges backwards as well... they polished up a treat too

DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Brake upgrade ???

Brake upgrade ???

Will check tyre pressures again

disc brakes

Also