Can anyone give advice on a LHD to RHD drive conversion on a 911T and parts required for the conversion. Will the steering re-site to the right hand side without modification , I have been told its on a universal joint ? Does the steering box have to be moved ?I have a rhd dash panel, bulkead panel , rhd pedal box ..
If any fellow ddk'ers have carried out a conversion I would be interested what steps were carried out for the conversion.
1971 911T LHD to RHD drive conversion advice
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Bootsy
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Ok, this is not that helpful - but my advice is don't do it!
The car value and integrity will be question. Personally if RHD is a real issue to you then I'd look to sell your LHD and seek a genuine RHD.
Just my opinion.
The car value and integrity will be question. Personally if RHD is a real issue to you then I'd look to sell your LHD and seek a genuine RHD.
Just my opinion.
1972 911T | 1994 993 Carrera | 1999 986 Boxster | 1990 T25 Camper
Vintage Heuer, Omega, Zenith and other vintage watches - http://www.heuerheritage.co.uk
Vintage Heuer, Omega, Zenith and other vintage watches - http://www.heuerheritage.co.uk
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sladey
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In all the mags over the years it generally says the conversion isn't worth it -the only exception being where the differential between LHD & RHD is so great (e.g. 4 years ago on brand new 996's) that is saves you money. Even then this doesn't take into account what you're left with at the end of it and how much it will be worth.
My understanding is that as a rough guide everything forward of the bulkhead and including the bulkhead has to be replaced; that ( with the later cars) they needed a RHD wiring loom (not sure if this applies to earlier cars).
Even after doing all that, and even if you do a pukka job, then because it's a difficult job and there are a number of dodgy conversions out there then there is a danger that yours will be tarred with the same brush and be worth less than what you started with.
I'd agree with Bootsy - live with it or sell it for a RHD one
Just my two penn'orth
My understanding is that as a rough guide everything forward of the bulkhead and including the bulkhead has to be replaced; that ( with the later cars) they needed a RHD wiring loom (not sure if this applies to earlier cars).
Even after doing all that, and even if you do a pukka job, then because it's a difficult job and there are a number of dodgy conversions out there then there is a danger that yours will be tarred with the same brush and be worth less than what you started with.
I'd agree with Bootsy - live with it or sell it for a RHD one
Just my two penn'orth
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Barry
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O.K. Heres the deal: I've done one, and its not for the fainthearted.
The first thing to do it properly the whole of the interior, front screen, front subframe, boot trim, wiper assembly, instruments, dash loom and fuel tank have to come out. The ideal is to have a bare shell, with headlining out: you'll be doing a lot of welding in the car, and the fumes get into any interior materials, and takes a long time to go: great for that authentic Cut and Shut smell.
Parts you will need (all RHD) Pedal box, bulkhead, dashtop (tres £££), lower dash trims, outer steering column with lock, loom, master cylinder plumbing, brake pipes from master cylinder, front subframe cover. Don't forget the carpet set as well. The actual steering column and rack can be re-used. You'll also need RHD wiper assembly: it's completely different.
Obviously the original bulkhead has to be cut out: leaving the chassis number undisturbed. Best way is to cut worst of it out, then move outwards until the seams are un-picked. The problem is that the new dash won't go in as I assume the shell starts with the bulkhead, and everything else comes off from it. Therefore the new dash needs letting into the ends of the original. You also have to be aware that you need to unpick around the screen base: you really need to weld supports upto the roof to stop the base moving: otherwise there is a very real risk that the screen aperture will move, leaving the screen tight (risk of breakage), loose (risk of falling out) or distorted (screen won't go in at all).
The offside foot well is wider than the real RHD, so a section has to be removed from this, and the side of the panel moved over, and re-welded. Otherwise there is no room for the accelerator.
The pedal area of the floor needs removing: a this point the whole of the dash, bulkhead, and some of the floor is missing. This is the time to worry!!
Placing the pedals is tricky: I made a template from the RHD floorpan, plus used digital verniers to recheck everything.
Even if you've done everything pretty well, it'll probably still show that it's been done: particularly from the underside.
Overall, even if the car is down to the shell, unless you have done an awful lot of this sort of work (I've done about a lot of restorations, had a restoration business, and done conversions on Triumph TR's before) this is something else. Because the bulkhead is so very different side-to-side, and so deep into the structure of the car, you have to be incredibly careful, organised and well informed. It would be very easy to build a twist through the car.
Your welding has to be 100% reliable: not just because of safety and strength generally, but because so much of it can be seen but you can't get to it to grind/linish welds: therefore if your welding generally needs tidying then don't do it.
As Bootsy says, a conversion is usually worth less than a correct LHD car, and that assumes a good job. If it doesn't go well, the car will be turned into a breaker.
I really would consider enjoying the car as it is: I've got a LHD 914 currently, and am surprised (having always said I'd never have LHD) how quickly you get used to it. One thing with the 911, if you go to shows, particulaly if there's a lot of early 911's there, you will find nearly half will be LHD anyway: certainly you would not be the odd one out
.
The first thing to do it properly the whole of the interior, front screen, front subframe, boot trim, wiper assembly, instruments, dash loom and fuel tank have to come out. The ideal is to have a bare shell, with headlining out: you'll be doing a lot of welding in the car, and the fumes get into any interior materials, and takes a long time to go: great for that authentic Cut and Shut smell.
Parts you will need (all RHD) Pedal box, bulkhead, dashtop (tres £££), lower dash trims, outer steering column with lock, loom, master cylinder plumbing, brake pipes from master cylinder, front subframe cover. Don't forget the carpet set as well. The actual steering column and rack can be re-used. You'll also need RHD wiper assembly: it's completely different.
Obviously the original bulkhead has to be cut out: leaving the chassis number undisturbed. Best way is to cut worst of it out, then move outwards until the seams are un-picked. The problem is that the new dash won't go in as I assume the shell starts with the bulkhead, and everything else comes off from it. Therefore the new dash needs letting into the ends of the original. You also have to be aware that you need to unpick around the screen base: you really need to weld supports upto the roof to stop the base moving: otherwise there is a very real risk that the screen aperture will move, leaving the screen tight (risk of breakage), loose (risk of falling out) or distorted (screen won't go in at all).
The offside foot well is wider than the real RHD, so a section has to be removed from this, and the side of the panel moved over, and re-welded. Otherwise there is no room for the accelerator.
The pedal area of the floor needs removing: a this point the whole of the dash, bulkhead, and some of the floor is missing. This is the time to worry!!
Placing the pedals is tricky: I made a template from the RHD floorpan, plus used digital verniers to recheck everything.
Even if you've done everything pretty well, it'll probably still show that it's been done: particularly from the underside.
Overall, even if the car is down to the shell, unless you have done an awful lot of this sort of work (I've done about a lot of restorations, had a restoration business, and done conversions on Triumph TR's before) this is something else. Because the bulkhead is so very different side-to-side, and so deep into the structure of the car, you have to be incredibly careful, organised and well informed. It would be very easy to build a twist through the car.
Your welding has to be 100% reliable: not just because of safety and strength generally, but because so much of it can be seen but you can't get to it to grind/linish welds: therefore if your welding generally needs tidying then don't do it.
As Bootsy says, a conversion is usually worth less than a correct LHD car, and that assumes a good job. If it doesn't go well, the car will be turned into a breaker.
I really would consider enjoying the car as it is: I've got a LHD 914 currently, and am surprised (having always said I'd never have LHD) how quickly you get used to it. One thing with the 911, if you go to shows, particulaly if there's a lot of early 911's there, you will find nearly half will be LHD anyway: certainly you would not be the odd one out
.DDK Member1243 07741 273865. Now booking Spring '24. Home of the RY Austin 7 Trophy's
Hello there.
I'd agree with every word that has been poted here..this is not on.
Ifin you really want to make a RHD car, buy a RHD shell and sell the ( hopefully good ) shell you alredy have.
I have two good to excellent RHD shells, which might be for sale..
Email me if your interested..
Kind regards
David
I'd agree with every word that has been poted here..this is not on.
Ifin you really want to make a RHD car, buy a RHD shell and sell the ( hopefully good ) shell you alredy have.
I have two good to excellent RHD shells, which might be for sale..
Email me if your interested..
Kind regards
David
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higs356
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I can only echo all of the above
A 356 conversion is a different story ...much more straightforward.
Having owned a few RHD 911s and having seen some awful conversions in the past.Even if you spend the money on a really good shop which can do this it will always be a converted car and will you ever truly feel safe in it?
I'd go with purchasing an original RHD even if it needs work it will be less than a conversion challenge and will be Right (Pardon the punn)
Also the RHD original preimpact cars are not as expensive as you might think even if they dont come up FS very often and even if you have to stretch the bank a little you would be really unlucky to lose any money on one.
A 356 conversion is a different story ...much more straightforward.
Having owned a few RHD 911s and having seen some awful conversions in the past.Even if you spend the money on a really good shop which can do this it will always be a converted car and will you ever truly feel safe in it?
I'd go with purchasing an original RHD even if it needs work it will be less than a conversion challenge and will be Right (Pardon the punn)
Also the RHD original preimpact cars are not as expensive as you might think even if they dont come up FS very often and even if you have to stretch the bank a little you would be really unlucky to lose any money on one.
Cheers
Hig
I used to have a 72 911 I drove every day... Now I have projects...
'73 911 Track car ...being put back together
'59 Conv D... refit underway...Upholstery done !!
Hig
I used to have a 72 911 I drove every day... Now I have projects...
'73 911 Track car ...being put back together
'59 Conv D... refit underway...Upholstery done !!
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Bootsy
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I bought my RS Rep in RHD as my wife wanted to drive it and was strictly 'no LHD'. She's driven it not once and I wish I had a LHD now - I actually prefer them and drive my LHD Split bus every day.
1972 911T | 1994 993 Carrera | 1999 986 Boxster | 1990 T25 Camper
Vintage Heuer, Omega, Zenith and other vintage watches - http://www.heuerheritage.co.uk
Vintage Heuer, Omega, Zenith and other vintage watches - http://www.heuerheritage.co.uk
I bought my car with the intension of doing this conversion even bought an old rusted 72 911e RHD to cut the bulk head dash panels and floor panels out of. After I actually drove my LHD for the first time to get it MOT'd the coversion plans went straight out of the window. All I got to show for my efforts is the logbook to a 72e to frame and put on my wall and a load of scrap metal.
Have you ever tried to drive a LHD? give it a go after a while you dont ever realise your driving one.
Steve
Have you ever tried to drive a LHD? give it a go after a while you dont ever realise your driving one.
Steve
1972 911t RS Styled + G50 Converted
SAAB 9-3ss Aero
SAAB 9-3ss Aero
I would like to make one point though you here alot of people going on about coverted cars being unsafe, The only panels that need changing to convert a 911 to RHD is bulkhead, dash panels section of right hand floor and remove back of smuglers box to open up the pedal area. most of these panels are not the major structural components of the car such as inner wings roor etc, how many legit RHD cars are going around that have had restorations and had far more welding to much more important structural panels than the bulkhead dash and floor. Its like any thing done properly a coverted LHd to RHD car is as safe as an original RHD car if done properly just the same as a restoration on a true RHD car.
What it comes down to is is it worth it? most will say no and from someone who was asking the same questions as you 12 months ago I would agree. My LHD car is staying LHD, at least while I own it anyway. Do that maths on the parts and labour involved and youll come to the same answers if you want a RHD car buy one. If your concerned about older uk cars been rusted buy a later 70's galvanised car and backdate it, its far less trouble.
Steve
What it comes down to is is it worth it? most will say no and from someone who was asking the same questions as you 12 months ago I would agree. My LHD car is staying LHD, at least while I own it anyway. Do that maths on the parts and labour involved and youll come to the same answers if you want a RHD car buy one. If your concerned about older uk cars been rusted buy a later 70's galvanised car and backdate it, its far less trouble.
Steve
1972 911t RS Styled + G50 Converted
SAAB 9-3ss Aero
SAAB 9-3ss Aero