DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

My car has got to go back to Resto shop because he forgot to weld the tube which holds rear cable for lid catch.

So while it’s in I’m thinking of having a few bits done.

Does my engine and gearbox need to be dropped to replace the mounts. ?

Thanks Lee


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Dropped a bit yes, fully no.
Completely possible with it all still in.

Obviously you need a jack underneath to take the weight, but pretty easy

Installed WEVO mounts some years back when engine out - noticeable improvement!
C

Yes, a stiffer set of mounts changes the attitude in the 911 noticeably, I used poly bushes in all 4 mounts.

Suggest you do the gearbox pair first then the engine cross beam so 2 mounts and the jack support the drive train and generally the position.

The gearbox cross member bolts are metric fine thread, not the common course spec and are easy to cross-thread.

Hey thanks guys appreciate the comments.
How many hours generally to fit all?


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I set aside three hours to do the engine mounts on my 964. I was done and dusted in 45 minutes.

If you on your back on the garage floor, then a lazy 1 hour.
I always finger tight fit everything as some of the 4 holes for the big bolts do not all line-up, but could just be my engine cross bar!

Then of course torque the lot up to spec.

The more 'solid' mounts greatly enhance the shake you get from the drive train when making hard starts, and the gear lever moves around far less too.
You will feel a bit of harshness/ vibration, but amongst all the other '911 noise' it all gets drowned out...

I removed my hard mounts 5 years ago to standard 911 mounts as the car is now a cruiser, not a hillclimb car.

Didn't really notice any difference!

Thanks for sharing

911hillclimber wrote:If you on your back on the garage floor, then a lazy 1 hour.
I always finger tight fit everything as some of the 4 holes for the big bolts do not all line-up, but could just be my engine cross bar!

Then of course torque the lot up to spec.

The more 'solid' mounts greatly enhance the shake you get from the drive train when making hard starts, and the gear lever moves around far less too.
You will feel a bit of harshness/ vibration, but amongst all the other '911 noise' it all gets drowned out...

I removed my hard mounts 5 years ago to standard 911 mounts as the car is now a cruiser, not a hillclimb car.

Didn't really notice any difference!

That's good to know as my G50 can jump out of gear when coming on and off the power, if you'reholding the gear knob. Makes sense now you say it.

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The stiffer bushes on the box/engine mounts stop to some degree the fore/aft and torsional movements with the lever staying relevantly stationary, thus reducing the lever position/box shift rod movements.

Getting the shifter in the right position is really important too, but a tightened drive train become noticeable when DRIVING the car.
Ensuring the detented gear position is fully home in the box and the shifter position is not hindering that position is key, and true for all gear selected positions.

I changed my hot Impreza drive train mounts for WRC parts and the gear lever did not move in the heat of a hillclimb run, before it would move laterally 15mm in a gear.
In fact the car was mustard with no rubber anywhere in the chassis, but a bit of a vibration could be tolerated....