Spare junk M-caliper long bolts/nuts anybody?

[Bruce M]

You’re not wrong. For some reason HT M7 bolts are going for daft prices on eBay. £10 each or more.
Crazy.

They’ll be sitting on the shelf in lots of places but just a case of finding where

[Nine One One]

This lot are in the UK and have a box full of M7 Bolts and nuts, 8 of which are M7 x 70 at £16 for the boxed set, all high tensile zinc coated, with others that may come in handy, or just ask them for what you want??

https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/m7- ... full-nuts/



Box contains.....

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

Contains: 117 Items
Thread Size - M7 X 1mm pitch
Grade/Material - 8.8 High tensile zinc plated steel.

66 - Full Nuts
15 - M7 X 35 Zinc Plated Hex Bolts
15 - M7 X 40 Zinc Plated Hex Bolts
10 - M7 X 45 Zinc Plated Hex Bolts
10 - M7 X 50 Zinc Plated Hex Bolts
8 - M7 X 60 Zinc Plated Hex Bolts
8 - M7 X 70 Zinc Plated Hex Bolts
All bolts have an un-threaded part (shank)

Comes in a clear plastic box with clip down lid OR refill pack (no box)

[deano]

Thanks for the nice tip, looks like a good deal for long M7 8.8 hex bolts, but hex heads won't fit unfortunately, and I wouldn't be able to sleep at night unless I used the original 12.9 grade.

In any case, I have managed to track down as supplier of the cap/socket head versions needed.

For two M7x70 12.9 high tensile bolts with nuts and washers came out at £15 and some pennies incl. VAT and delivery.

https://www.fastpack-york.co.uk/ (the bolts are on their website, and their Ebay site, but not the nuts and washers. Call and order over the phone to get the best price)

Thanks everyone for your kind contributions.

[Loz]

Could also try Bolt Base UK

Hth

[deano]

After cleaning and reassembling the two halves and seals, the caliper is back together with a new pair or M7 bolts courtesy of Fastpack in York...

I planned to fit the caliper on the car today, but test-fitted the pads first and found that they were slightly too wide for the caliper, as per the pic.

I tried the old pads and one of them slid in nicely, but the other got stuck between the sides as per the new ones.

The insides of the caliper measure 61.9 mm, the original pads 61.6 and 61.7, new pads 62 mm.

Can anyone please advise, should I:

1. file down the inside of the caliper?
2. file down the sides of the new pads?
3. try a different brand of pad and hope they fit better?

I hope someone can advise on the correct way to fix this, thanks and merry Christmas !!

[Nine One One]

Do not file the caliper!
It would be easier just to file off the excess on the pad, but if the old pad did not stick, why is it doing so now, or was it the original pad that was stuck in the caliper, and not the actual piston seizing?

I have had to grind the sides of pads down before to fit various calibers and it has never been an issue then in use. Would not have thought it is an over torque of the bolts.

Did that caliper get really hot at some stage and the inner walls of the caliper have warped?

[911hillclimber]

Agree.
Changed the front pads on my 2009 Boxster 3 years ago, aftermarket parts.
Had a similar interference condition.
Filed the pads face to the calliper and then a further 0.2 mm to ensure there was a gap so any corrosion would have some room.
Painted the pad surface after the filing.
Been perfect since, no noise or vibration.

This is what I would do.

[deano]

Thanks for the excellent advice !

I will run the edges of the new pads down the surface of a file a wee bit until they slide in nicely...

[deano]

Sorry, can anyone answer a few more naïve questions before I try to re-install this caliper please....

I filed the sides of the brake pads - I think it was mainly just paint build-up on the sides of the pads that made them interfere with the inside edges of the caliper. A quick rub up and down a file did the trick....

Can anyone tell me please:

Do I need to put grease on the filed edges of the pads and caliper where the interference was?
Do I need to put grease on the two pins where they go through the holes in the pads?
It looks like I will need to spread the pistons as far back as they will go, to get the pads in after the caliper is fitted to the car, is that correct?

Looking forward, I expect that there is still some (very old) brake fluid in the lines.

I think I need to fit the master cylinder and reservoir first, and then pump the pedal to push out the old fluid, opening one caliper bleed nipple at a time?

Thanks again!!

[911hillclimber]

The bare edges will be fine, the constant movement of the pads to the calliper s will keep things clean.
Pins go in dry though I spray mine with wd40 an wipe off excess before installing.
It is normal to have to push the pistons right in with fresh pads.

Assemble everything.
Bleed the brakes with fresh fluid in the reservoir and keep going. Old fluid will pass out quickly enough.

If it takes several loops of the car to get a good pedal, that is normal, they can be a bitch.

Once done, leave overnight and check the pedal. Normal if you need to bleed some more…

[deano]

Brilliant, thank you!

[rhd racer]

The pistons will push in really easily with the pressure released from the system. I put a tiny smear of grease on the pins just to stop them season and to help the pads release - just the tiniest smear. I also use brembo anti squeal grease in the back face of the pads.

It is worth investing in a power bleeder - they are worth their weight in gold for a solid pedal. I have a Sealey one which you pressure by hand and turns bleeding the brakes into a truly one man job. Like all things there are some knacks to it, and I pressurise and still pump the pedal too. The 964 also has a breather pipe from the reservoir to gravity in the inner wing, which will wee brake fluid all over the floor if you don’t clamp it with moleys. Ask me how I know!

I agree with Graham, I bleed through the old fluid and replace with the new - the new just forces the old out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[911hillclimber]

Made me think...danger!

New nipples and fresh rubber covers for them greased and in place before bleeding and the right size ring or tube spanner, for them no adjustables allowed!

[deano]

Thanks for all the helpful advice.

My nipples are a bit of an eyesore. I should really sort them out as someone suggested

I don't really fancy spending £65 on a brake bleeder, that will be used once. It looks like identical-looking versions can be found for 25 though without the Sealey sticker, which is not so bad.

Do we do tool rental on DDK? Perhaps we should?

[jb]

I have one that you are welcome to borrow but I am in London.
They do work well