DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

After 5/6 days paint was flatted with 2000 grit machine,2000 grit wet & 3000 grit by hand.Then polished with Roar compound.Colour is much different in bright sunlight.

Next was oil system.Bracket welded under rear quarter

Overhaul thermostat.


Clean up threads
.
Made this mount.

Welded on thermostat.

Strip and refinish oil tank.



I made a mock up of oi lines,then had then bent in Stainless Steel.Unfortunately the bend under the front wing,is too tight to bend on a long run.Obviously you cant insert a mandrel,so it has to be cut and a 45 degree bend fitted.

Eaventually you get this.

Ferrules/joins were silver soldered.



custom pressure testing tool!

Made up lines to run from solid lines to cooler.





High clearance oil lines from Stat to oil tank/engine.



custom oil cooler.Alloy ferrules welded on to match Porsche OEM fittings.Brackets welded on

Fabulous!

Impressive work

Now shell is complete,next step was to install loom.However,few parts are on back order so thats on hold.Decided to finish off soundproofing in engine compartment.
Firstly installed some ver OEM looking pad in upper area.Then used thinner on fire wall.


Made up this aluminium panel.Installed a bracket for possible further use.

Suspension.
I will want to lower the front.The only proper way, whilst maintaining correct geo is to raise the spindles.This can be a tad hellish depending on how well the strut was welded at factory.Drillling out the rosette weld.Then moving up the spindle.



Fitted up with bump steer kit,courtesy of Rebel Racing.(Note large seals on ends)

Painted grey.Changed later.

Next was front anti roll bar.
This is a vintage unit which was replated.It may have been from Smart Racing,or even more cool,some units that Mark Donahue used to market in the 1970s.Its a 22mm unit.I made up some alloy drop links.The original plastic bushes,looked at best, worse for wear.Ran up a new pair in Delrin on lathe.





There was some chaffing around the pedal box area.Had to cut back a few mm,for bar to clear.

Stripped rebuilt and installed rack.



Next was A arm.Previously had through body sway tabs welded on.Media cleaned, and finished in 2k satin.The bushes are Elephant Racing.Whilst quite spendy, they are well reviewed and also include mounting hardware.Having rebushed these before.trust me, the mounting kit is a God send.


Front bars are Sway Away.22mm.

Camber mounts with again,Elephant Racing rubbers.These are 2 piece,so fitting is a breeze.


Inserts for front struts.Bilstein 160 160 which designates Sport/Street stifness.

Elephant racing seal housing,which are much shorter than OEM Bilstein.More clearance, in case of bottoming out,due to raised spindles.

Front suspension fitted.Notice the shorter strut seals.Elephant Racing again.Narrower than original Bilstein,to restore full travel of shock,after raising.
Turbo tie rods.Rebel Racing Hardware.Original S Alloy front calipers, with titanium pistons.
I decided to use the original sway rods.Rebushed.






Unless you want to knock out the lug bolts after media cleaning the front hubs(not recommended)your going to end up with bare steel lug bolts.Obviously not ideal.Pointless to paint them,as it will come off after a few spins of wheel nut.Top Tip! Heat studs to cherry red, then dip in cooking oil.I aquired a bottle of Mazola from local shop.Will blacken them nicely and as durable as plating.Kind of ironic.Seed oils,(which is what vegetable oils are) were originally designed for automotive use.Then Proctor and gamble convinced us to cook with it.Been killing us for 100 years.Anyway, I digress.Decided I didnt like the grey struts, and re painted in a Bilstein greenish hue.

Geat build, I'm really enjoying it.

Does heating and quenching the lug nuts not make them brittle? The litle I know know about this, is that it's a method of hardening steel and you have to temper afterwards to reduce the brittleness. Am I to understand you go to a lower temp. than is necessary to harden?

Yes Rob I dont get them very hot.The very tip, may go to cherry but by the time ive put the torch down and got it to the oil its way, way cooler, before I dip in oil.The rest is a lot lower temp.Really just enough to cook the oil on the lug nuts.Also the oil doesnt really quench.It smokes,as it burns on, but then I leave to cool.In fact, it would bear more in common with annealing,making the studs softer.Been doing this 30 odd years.No issues as yet.

Just caught up with this one…amazing speed…love the fact you do all of this yourself…
All the best
Jonathan

jtparr wrote: ↑Mon Jul 31, 2023 6:54 pm Just caught up with this one…amazing speed…love the fact you do all of this yourself…
All the best
Jonathan

Thanks Jonathan.Actually this is about 3 years to get to this stage .When not working on customers cars.(or Bikes)

Blimey time flies.Finally managed to find a window to progress.First job was to slighlty modify these sway away rear bars.They are hollow.I welded in a insert, so a bolt can be inserted to make removal a tad easier

The rear plates are from Rebel Racing.These are quick release,so rear bars can be simply pulled out for changing or re indexing.

The rear roll bar, is a period 22mm unit from Weltmiester.The Achilles heel with these units is that the mounts are really not durable, and the constant flexing ruins to bolts,when bend and can strip the thread.Made up some far heavier ones in stainless.

replated with new bushes etc.

fitted thus.

Sport Bilsteins in rear.Heater flaps, brakes etc etc .

Hand brake unit.Heater flap controls.I welded tabs, instead of utilising the simple holes for flapper cable.Nice and secure, and able to take up any slack easier.Makes everything tighter.Top Tip.Dont pay Porsche tax on the cable.Piano wire!