lightweight sleeper build

[coomo]

Apologies to mods (Bootsy) He must wonder what im doing,editing and deleting threads.Fact is,I struggle with computer stuff,and its taken me few hours to reach a point where I can do this,without too much grief.

I drove this 1978SC back from the coast of Sctoland 5 years ago.It had been previously backdated,many years before.The standard on the work was, well sub.I knew it would require tearing apart.The first clue was when I was sitting in my chair,drinking tea.I looked down and saw the sidelight/wing gap!

[coomo]

it wasnt long before it was confirmed it would require "all the usual" Plus a few more areas to be restored.

[coomo]

After a few weeks, strip down was complete,and a full survey of required work,could be roughly asessed.Then,I began my least favourite job.Removing the underseal prior to shot blasting.The most efficient way is a map torch heavy gloves, full mask and various scrappers.Its no suprise they rot.Up into the rear light fitting,its solid seal.No -where for water to escape.

[coomo]

Ok my computer confidence is growing.Will try to add more than few pics per post.with updated comments.
After 3/4 days you end up with this.

The front tank support was left.It was obvious it wasnt staying.


On the back of truck.Then week later,back from Maldon shotblasting.Fabricate a frame to support the front, from odds and sods, then onto the DDK communial spit.

[coomo]

First job was to get it protected.Everything got a few coats of this.

then another job, im not too keen on,which does getv ignored.Removing the rear bumper support renforcements.How many welds do they really need!

[coomo]

underside was pretty good.No corrosion to floor pan, which was nice.Rear rails required some attention,under tube rail thingy place.






Heater valve locating studs.Heres a top tip.If they are rotted out.Grind out the remains of the old studs.Then you can drop in a bolt,and let a flood of braze in,to well braze it.

Area under rear sway mount.


Spun over, onto Jig, Rear quarters removed.Inner.outer sills etc etc.

[coomo]

then finally onto Cellette.front removed and tank support panel etc offered up.





Jig for front panel location.

[coomo]

Tops of inner wings, scuttle etc.


thats only a partial panel.The lower part, you have to fab up.

[Bootsy]

Excellent - another resto thread to follow

You’ve made a great start!

[coomo]

inner outers, kidneys, new heater pipes etc etc.

All inner panels are coated with this.Spectral 2k expoxy.






rear panel in.rear quaters welded back on.


Wont be using jacking points.These are welded up.

Once outers welded in.I run Vatacan or similar into sills until it seeps out through seams.

[coomo]

Then to adapt front panel to allow for custom oil cooler.interior fabbed up.

[coomo]

Roof panel cut.All rain channels removed, and outlets welded up.




Before roof panel installed.Remove glove box and fab a panel.




Carbon roof panel (1.5lbs) If your considering a sunroof delete,you may find this a more economical option.Not sure how much the steel delete panels are now.Chris at Fenn Lane used to sell for £150ish.Obviously thats now not an option.The carbon panels i get from neville at F1motorshop.(£800ish)However, to weld,and fit a steel delete panel,is a good few days work.Plus you need to be able to acess welding gear etc.Once the roof is cut, the carbon panel can be fitted in under an hour,Far more simply, with much less refinishing.You just need a lot of clamps!

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[coomo]

Rear seats are not an option.Nor Am I keen on the rear carpeted look.Instead the interior, will be a paint finish.However, the rear tub, is deep
and wide! I fabed up some panels backed with soundproofing, and welded in.They will take a very slim cushion if required.lots of filling to smooth it all out


A central mount for an extinguisher


I had a genuine "matter"alloy cage from the 70s, that was in a race car.It fiited well.Off to Custom cages, to scan and make me a steel copy.






Doors were in great order.I hand strip,then send off to blasters to clean edges and interiors.

[coomo]

2 genuine Porsche front wings.As usual required fitting.Gaps to doors was way off.Welded TIG wire to wing edge.Then finished with lead to create decent gaps.




Same for light boxes,and edge of bonnet.I used genuine 1970s grilles,and then leaded the wing edges,to create nice lines,and even gap with bonnet.

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[coomo]

Will be using 911R rear lights.obviously being fibreglass,there is no real way to
fit these nicely.Again some lead in rear quarters to get nice fitment.

Next step was to add chassis strengthening.Really a case of why not.Its not spendy, just time consuming,which for me isnt too much of a problem.Also if some lunatic in the future decides they want to go racing in it, or add ludicrous power.Well its helpful.
Rear tube plates.Courtesy of Elephant Racing.In fact these are quiet spendy! You do get a plate to help with warping and a nice box though.


Stitch welded front tub and you can just seen strengthening plates for through body sway bar.Really nice penetration with those welds,unfortunately the expoxy is flammable.Got kinda messy.Note to self: Stitch weld THEN epoxy!

Top mount plates.

front brace mounts.