DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

1968 912 taking a long time to start - eventually fires up and runs OK. first time it did it it fired up - then would not start the next day - changed the condenser and started straight away. Started yesterday but took about 5-6 minutes of turning over. Fuel deliver is OK, points OK, plugs OK. It maybe the condenser again as when swapped last time this was for one i had in the garage. Could it be the coil breaking down ? I Don't know if it makes a difference but its been pretty cold weather on both occasions. not had any of these issues since owning the car over the last 7 years.

any advice appreciated

Thanks

Danny

How old is the fuel in the tank?

All fresh, filled up half a tank last week and pervious to that about 6 weeks ago - use either Esso or BP ron 98/99

Mechanical or electrical fuel pump? That said 5-6 mins is too long. Does it start quickly back up again once started? My uniformed quess is the points or timing? I think it's unlikely that a coil will have stopped working while it's sitting? They normally they fail under heat or use? However, if you Google Bruce Smith Sparking Plugs he tells you how to test them.

When you say you had to try for 5 mins did your battery crank well during those 5 mins.

I would charge your battery I would start it again. Get it warm. Then check dwell and timing. If I remember correctly less static advance means more chance of starting? Try for 30/32 degrees max advance?

If that doesn't help check the fuel filters Blow through all the soft pipes and clean the idle jets

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Thanks for the replies.

battery cranked well and was fully charged
electric fuel pump with new (last year) fuel pipes in engine bay and fuel regulator. - checked fuel delivery to carbs - all good.

I will re-check the points and try and check timing - need to get a timing light

Thanks

Danny

when you say plugs ok, have you checked theyre all sparking when cranked ?

Thes kind of tools can be useful if youve got a helper

https://yambits.co.uk/xj600-spark-plug- ... 52244.html

One way to check the plugs is remove each lead from the distributor cap individually. If you get a lead where the rpm doesnt drop as much then you have an issue

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Ps I have a timing light you could borrow but I see you are in Essex and SeanP is the resident 912 expert.

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How are you trying to start the car?
Electric fuel pump. Switch on ignition and let the pump run to fill the float bowls, you should hear a change in note or noise in the pump as the system becomes pressurised. Pump the accelerator pedal three times,(don’t stab at it but press all the way to the floor). You are now priming the engine for a start. Foot off the accelerator pedal and turn the key to start the engine. If it does not catch first time repeat the above. You should get an attempted ignition within three attempts.

Fuel these days is not the best and will evaporate even in cold weather and absorb moisture. (Ethanol is hygroscopic)

If it has started and ran then I would suspect it’s not the coil.
Do the points look pitted and burnt. Then I would suspect the condenser. Change both the points and condenser.
Fuel filter? Has it been replaced.
How are the distributor cap and rotor arm?

Quick way to check the points/condenser and coil is to take the king lead off the distributor and hold it near the case whilst cranking the engine over and checking for a spark.

Update on the above after a few months. Car now running, various issues combined to cause the problems, couple of wiring issues, carb leaking, ignition lead and a bit of distribution fettling. As part of the above fix I replaced the Solex with new repro items - will see how they perform, 123 disti fitted, starts with a few cranks now. Few things to address- fit new ignition leads (any recommendations) and a couple of oil breather pipes to replace plus accelerator linkage bushes need replacing. Thanks again for all advice.

Magnicor ignition leads. Expensive but are better quality than the standard leads and last a lot longer. Oil Breather pipe buy a meter of 24/25mm diameter oil pipe from ebay, (check the size as I am not around the garage at the moment), What accelerator bushes? there are a fw in the linkage, three bobbins in the tunnel and then the two bushes on the gearbox reverse pull lever. All available from the usual places. Don't forget ball joint play is a killer

Thanks Sean, replace the bell crank bushes (did not have any) then noticed the coat hanger linkage rod was split at the end so need to replace ( amazed it never fell off). Finished the wiring, new ignition to starter cable and a couple more installed for temp sensor and a couple of spares. Will take a look at the magnicors. How easy is it to fit the linkage rod from bell frank at rear of gear box up to the throttle linkage - think it’s referred to a “coat hanger”

It’s not hard at all to fit. The hard bit is reaching behind the engine to snap the end on the ball joint.
1. Feed it up through the slot in the tin and make it stay there.
2. Go to engine and reach behind and wrestle the barsteward on to the ball joint. Swearing is optional here.
3, Connect it at the bell crank.
4. Check iteration of throttle and make sure you have the full range of movement at the carbs.