DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

So after the holiday I managed to find an hour yesterday to start the strip down

Ostensibly this whole thing is just to replace that sheared stud. Whileyerinthere-itis keeps pecking at me though but set against that I’m driving round the Pyrenees in 4 weeks time.

I’ve decided therefore just to:-
- replace the stud
- clean it all up
- re-torque the cylinder heads
- do the tappets
- oil change (obvs)
- new fuel filter and air filter

After about an hour of fiddling about yesterday I ended up with this



All ready for today when I finally get to grips with that sheared stud

Good luck with the stud….see you in 4 weeks….

I’d been thinking about it for a while and I decided to use one of these to help me

You use them in woodwork to accurately drill into the centre of a hole - there is a spring loaded outer sheath that centres the drill part.

Next problem was that I didn’t have enough clearance to get the drill in there.


If I’d taken the inlet studs out it would have got me some more room but I didn’t really want to start opening that can of worms and I wasn’t certain that it would give me enough room

No worries, I’ve got a right angled drill. That was ok but it’s harder to keep it in line.

However, overall I thought this part went ok.

It left me with this


If you zoom in you can see that the indentation seems to be pretty well centred.

I then started with a 2.5mm drill bit with the aim of gradually getting bigger.

I’d bought a new set of 8% cobalt drill bits especially for the purpose.

The next problem was that as the bit went in the chuck of the drill started to catch on the engine casing forcing the drill up slightly.

I wasn’t fully aware of this until I broke through to the other side


Of you zoom in you can see it’s come out near the bottom.

Balls.

At this stage I think I was on a 4mm bit so I though as I gradually increased in size I could angle it up

I went for a 5mm and managed to snap it off in the hole……

But as I’d already gone through it was easy enough to drift it out from the other side.

At this point I dug out my taps. I’d got some ok ones but also luckily has a set of 3 high quality M8 ones.

I then had to check myself and remembered that for the tap to work the hole needed to be 6.7mm (I think)

So I then went to 5.5 and as I was drilling this through suddenly the stud gave way and unscrewed!!!

This is what it looked like



I was worried that it might have damaged the thread. However the side with the most damage wasn’t screwing into the case - that’s the side that the nut goes onto.

I sent a tap down the hole a few times (luckily the good taps had a quarter inch square shank so this previously made Frankenstein extension fitted nicely.


I wasn’t too concerned if the thread was damaged as I could just run an m8 bolt through it if need be.

However looking at it as carefully as it could, the thread seemed ok


I’d already ordered a replacement stud from design911 but looking at the order they had it down as an exhaust stud so I thought I may have mis-ordered. So I ordered the right part from the OPC.

Incidentally I ordered a load of stuff from design911 and so far I’ve had about 15 emails telling me the stock status of everything I’ve ordered but no indication of when Stuff is going to be sent out. Which is a pain.

As things stand though I’m calling that a win. If I can’t get torque on the stud I’ll put a nut and bolt through it which should give the same holding force. I’m pretty sure the stud will be fine though.

Now I’m going onto cleaning everything up before starting on the head studs and tappets.

I’ve got some degreaser but have just picked up 5 cans of brake cleaner from screwfix (I’ll be off my tits by teatime)

That is a real win Mark, good going and still 4 weeks to go, easy!

I have at times the same with Design911, they take the order on line and then you find out the stock status which can be evil.

I have complained 4 times, and got a reply the last time which was just to phone them and order all the parts. They can then advise if the parts are in stock, special, or long lead time.
You can them pay for the parts you decide on.
Thus, on-line is not really the surest way to get what you need!

Conversely, i ordered on line a 3.2 fuel filter last week and it arrived DHL 2 days later.

Remember to fit a new fan belt!!

Good stuff Mark. I can feel the pain of drilling that stud…

Still plenty of time to get that new alternator on, get the AC pumping and make us jealous for when we get those hot southern mountains

The grief these cars give is repaid once driven.
Nice work Mark.
Karl

Thanks guys. Yes I’ve got a new fan belt on order - the old one was perished and I cut through it taking it off

Forgot to mention I’ve had the fan refurbished by Greatworth so looking forward to fitting that on


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I order from type911 .. Mathew is really good when it comes to what is and what isn’t in stock etc

Good work Mark. I would order some high temp loctite to set the stud in place. It’s expensive stuff, so if you have no other use for it I prob have enough left to sort your stud if it helps.


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Thanks Wayne that would be helpful. I’ll give you a shout when the stud arrives

Nice one mark, always love your approach, getting on with it and making it work again.....Proper used as intended car !

Drive it, Break it, Fix it repeat

Thanks Chris

OK so today’s been about cleaning and getting ready for when the parts arrive
Where the pipes join onto the heat exchangers was a bit of a mess. I’d held the bracket on using rivnut and both seemed to have failed.


This lead me to think that rivnuts weren’t up to the job so I started thinking about welding stainless captive nuts onto there and working out how I would do it. However then I looked at the other side and the rivnuts were perfect there so I just cleaned up the first side and installed fresh rivnuts


Found a small hole in the exhaust



So welded that up


The tins are looking a bit crap now. Ideally I need to replace them but for the moment I’m just cleaning the crap off and re-installing them
This bit looked especially bad though


So I cut out a new piece and welded that in. It ain’t pretty and made worse by running out of welding gas part way through but it’s made it a bit more solid


I revisited the engine loom plug that I’d nearly snapped off when lifting the car off the engine. On closer inspection it had come apart but only needed to be clipped back together which was a result - I was concerned that I’d buggered something up there

The rest of the day was spent turning stuff like this


Into this


I’m conscious that my 10-50NM torque wrench is about 20 years old. This is what I was using when I sheared the stud off. I was concerned that it might have lost its accuracy and as I’m planning on re-torquing the cylinder heads I need this to be spot on. I looked into getting it re-calibrated, and also read up on checking the accuracy of it using weights and maths.

In the end I decided I needed a new toy and ordered a new Wera one. I’ve currently got Wera sockets and spanners. The zyklop socket wrench is a game changer - you can change the angle which allows you to use it like a screwdriver for quick screwing/unscrewing - I thoroughly recommend it


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I've got a few bits of grotty tinware on the 964. For a third of the price of new stuff from Porsche I bought carbon fibre stuff from DP Motorsport instead. Weighs nothing as well.

Good idea - I’ll probably do the same at some stage


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OK so time for a bit of an update

In my mind, once I’d sorted the earth cable that was the new alternator sorted. However I’d forgotten about the replacement power cable as well - they supply a thicker power cable leading straight to the starter motor.

So I had to work out where that was going to go. In the instructions it talks about possibly drilling a hole in the tinware/cowl to allow it to feed through. However, as I had everything apart I wondered if I could be smarter about it. Although it is thicker than the original it’s not massively thicker so I wondered if I could run it through exactly the same route

So this is what I started with


The thicker of the red cables is the one that needed replacing.

After snipping out the original one, some WD40, and pushing and pulling I ended up with this



The new cable is now running to the right place. Obviously I had to sacrifice Porsche’s original cover/tube for the cabling. I looked at various options - loom tape etc and eventually settled on this stuff


It’s already split down its length and curls in on itself. Because it’s split you can feed cables into and out of it easily and more to the point you can add it to existing cable runs. It looks very similarly to the stuff wrapped around my updated ECU cabling so that was a plus point as well. After cutting it you have to seal off the ends with a flame to prevent fraying and you can then neaten up the ends with some insulation tape.

I’ve put some tape on in this picture but I then had to rip it off again as I had to move stuff about. No matter - it’s easy to work with


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