What actually makes the spark on your car? I know you have the CANEM ecu for the fuel but where does the spark come from?
Pixies.
Or
It’s the Canems DIS ignition conversion kit - does away with the dizzy. I fitted a spark detector inline with the plug on number 4 cylinder and set it videoing - I have spark
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The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
I’ve now fitted the anti-roll bar and the rear wheels and lowered it off the lift.
I’m going to put the engine stand and engine hoist away and then phone the AA to say it’s not starting (I do pay for homestart) - I’m tied up tomorrow but aim to do it on Wednesday
I’ll let them analyse it for me. Whatever the problem is I don’t mind fixing it but I’m not great at problem analysis (though I am getting better)
If someone comes up with stuff I can test in the meantime I’m happy to give it a go
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The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
Does your system use the original crank position sensor or an aftermarket one on a toothed wheel? Any chance either bracket could be damaged and the distance incorrect so not giving a signal to the ECU?
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93 964 C2
99 Boxster 2.5 > 2.7 hill climber
71 914/6 3.0 - gone
'You see Paul, hill climbing is like making love to a beautiful woman. You get your motor running, check your fluids, hang on tight and WHOA..30 seconds later it's all over!' Swiss Tony
You say you have fuel pressure and no smell of fuel, so the injectors aren't receiving a signal. I'd focus on confirming that fact.
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1970 911T, Signal orange (Restoration thread)
1988 3.2 Carrera backdate, Black
2001 996 Turbo, Lapis blue (am I allowed to put that here?)
I'm looking for a pre-impact bumper 911S or other high-revving 911 to restore - please let me know if you see one.
My system uses the original crank sensors and neither have been touched throughout the recent work.
Those posts are interesting. The cylinder head sensor one was surprising. I’ve read up on using loctite on earthing bolts and what I’ve read says it won’t affect it but will fill in the gaps between the metal to metal contact. There are some tests i can do on the ch sensor so I’ll try those when I get a chance
I’ll also look a bit deeper into the fuel delivery - I’d assumed because the fuel was pressurised that I had fuel, but with all the cranking I’ve done i think I’d expect to smell a bit of fuel, so that avenue seems worth investigating
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The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
sladey wrote:…but with all the cranking I’ve done i think I’d expect to smell a bit of fuel, so that avenue seems worth investigating
100%. You’ve proven spark.
Only one other ingredient needed! (Except air!)
I’d imagine if the temp sensor wasn’t working you get the wrong mixture, i.e leaner than you’d ideally want for a cold start, but it would at least fart and cough into life.
If it is and you have fuel pressure at
The rail then as has been mentioned the injectors aren’t firing.
A quick way to prove if it is fuel related and not ignition is to spray some easy start into the air box, it should cough or splutter if the ignition system is good.
The head temp sensor won’t stop it starting as it defaults to rich mode
DustyM wrote:
A quick way to prove if it is fuel related and not ignition is to spray some easy start into the air box, it should cough or splutter if the ignition system is good.
I'm not so sure easy start is the way to go because I've a hunch it will spontaneously combust under compression, thereby not ruling out a lack of ignition. So some other volatile combustible is better such as petrol or carb cleaner.
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1970 911T, Signal orange (Restoration thread)
1988 3.2 Carrera backdate, Black
2001 996 Turbo, Lapis blue (am I allowed to put that here?)
I'm looking for a pre-impact bumper 911S or other high-revving 911 to restore - please let me know if you see one.
Dunno if it's any help but I'm free from tomorrow/Wednesday onwards. Happy to pop over and bring an extra head for thinking, can also bring my car if needed to cross reference wiring locations, etc. I've had my engine in and out a couple of times so familiar with things.
I may have spare sensor somewhere too.
There are 3 sensors on the crank, speed and position which are located next to each other and are the bottom two of the 3 in the engine comp, top one being the temp sensor. The third sensor, which is positioned on top of the flywheel is for TDC positioning and is the the loose connector flapping about in your engine bay. It's usually secured near the air flow meter and isn't connected to anything, a factory gizmo can be connected to that to TDC electronically.
Are you sure you haven't disturbed the gap between the speed sensors and the flywheel?