DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Some of you know I bought a 1970 2.2S ‘McQueen’ tribute car 6 months ago…

The car was a bare metal ground up restoration by Canford Classics with just about every single part replaced or rebuilt like new and had almost zero use since it was finished a few years back. The bodywork was all done by GTR Motorsport (who did the bare metal resto on my 964RSR), the engine built from scratch by Bob Watson and the gearbox by Mike Bainbridge then all put back together by Alan’s team at Canford Classics. This was perfect as I wanted a car to drive and use a lot…not one to have to constantly be fixing and there are some great names involved in the work.

I’ve driven it quite a bit since getting it but now have an issue that means I can’t use it (so swap meet is out )and wondered if anyone else has had to do this fix or how to go about it….

I’ve had a few oil leaks, not a surprise it’s just seals that need redoing and just the odd drop…but then noticed a puddle of oil under the jacking point on passenger side (it’s a LHD car).



Got it up on a ramp and we could see through the sill section behind the jacking point what looked like a rubber pipe and jubilee clip?





A quick look through the invoices on file and I found one for £1600 in 2019 that showed Canford Classics had done a repair to this section by stripping and removing lower sill, repairing pipe section with rubber/fabric hose, repairing section, welding back in place and repaint side sill. Having spoken to Alan he confirms this is what was done.

It looks like it’s not worked and as the car is now being driven more it’s leaking and filling the sill up to the point it’s dripping out the jacking point….



So has anyone had to fix these pipes leaking before? I’m guessing this is going to turn into a bloody expensive nightmare as they are not easy to get to being inside the sill on a 2.2S?? I’d appreciate any responses on people who have done this and what they did or recommendations on who can do the work as it obviously needs doing properly and I would have thought a rubber sleeve fix is only ever going to be temporary if you are actually going to use the car (which I’d still like to do!!)

Has anyone any experience of bypassing these pipes completely in the engine bay at all as a short term solution while looking into future long term options?

J

Bypass would be super easy. You can see in the engine bay where the thermostat / manifold connects to the pipes that emerge from the inner wing. Just connect outlet direct to inlet, job done.
Of course you will have to drive like a granny then, but plenty of early 911s survive without the front mounted cooler.

Bypass for now then run external pipes later as a fix.

The ‘proper’ fix is so intrusive it doesn’t bare thinking about on a freshly restored car.

inaglasshouse wrote: Of course you will have to drive like a granny then, but plenty of early 911s survive without the front mounted cooler.

Hmmmm thats not going to happen

But I have heard of lots of people running without the cooler.

That's a bugger

sladey wrote:That's a bugger

That's understatement of the year.....

Gary71 wrote: The ‘proper’ fix is so intrusive it doesn’t bare thinking about on a freshly restored car.

I think that's true if the "proper fix" is to replace the entire run of pipe. As you know, that means kidney bowl trauma etc.

But I wouldn't be quite so concerned about removing only(!) the outer sill, to gain proper access to the section that is leaking.
By the look of the pic, the rear of that area already needs work - looks to me as if, having cut the access hole, they did not fully stitch up the patient again?
If we imagine the outer sill off, I could imagine a leak-proof solution being to let in a new section of the straight run of pipe, brazed into place?

Barry could offer an expert view, I'm sure...

964RS wrote:

sladey wrote:That's a bugger

That's understatement of the year.....

Think of the positives. That area isn’t going to rust…

None of the car will at the minute…it’s stuck in the garage!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s a ball ache ! .

If you can get the pipe completely clean, then cut the pipe at the hole and rejoin using a 22mm copper pipe coupling can be soldered in. As a temporary measure, use a 22mm compression fitting. That’s what I’ve done as a temporary fix.

If it’s a longer split, the cut out the damaged section and use a length of 22mm copper pipe.

What does Alan say about how to fix?

gridgway wrote:What does Alan say about how to fix?

He said he suspected his advice would be to do the same as they did last time….

964RS wrote:He said he suspected his advice would be to do the same as they did last time….

Doesn't the repair originally done in 2019 come with any sort of warranty. Surely if the repair done then hasn't worked, why would you do the same thing again.

Hi, that’s a real pain for you Jason. So it’s clear on my advice what I said was
“ What a pain Jason. Can you get the car here so we can take a look? But, I suspect my advice will be what we said last time when there was a leak, it really needed a new long oil pipe but as you know Porsche in their pearls of wisdom placed them inside the sill for the 2.2. If it was a later car you simply take the long off and fit another. Let me know if we can help.
Thanks
Alan ”