DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

These arrived today. I think the pair with the side cutters may be exactly correct for 1970 but please correct me if I'm wrong. But I have to put together what's as close as I can, as it comes available.



Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

This is really good stuff Rob. How you get away with mini gas bottles, working outside is really impressive. Keep it up, W

You are blessed with tolerant people next door Rob!

This big heavy washer fell out of the sill, along with about a kilo of New Mexico sand. Any suggestions what it's from?



Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

I was reluctant to remove the floor under the centre tunnel, in case anything was attached to it, with the car on ramps held by the handbrake.



But eventually I satisfied myself everything was suspended from above.



It felt like low stakes brain surgery cutting this away - lots of apparently important things a few mm from the cutting disk. The air chisel has been invaluable - more controllable and no razor sharp edges.



Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Going with the side ramps. This one had a single point of contact with the drive, but it seemed stable.



Sand out of the jacking point.



Sand out of the tunnel.



Meanwhile it's raining sand from the sills every time I hit the car with the air chisel.



Repairs to the inner sill and rear seat to floor flange.





Repair to the centre tunnel bottom lip. Still plenty more to do.






Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Getting the wing off was fun... probably should have done the offside first before the added matter of the petrol filler.



I'm assuming this is the original wing. I'm curious whether the mastic Sealant in the inner to outer wing join bears out that theory.




The bottom rear of the wheel arch appears to be the only rust, and that's still in shape. So it looks like I can preserve the original, as I prefer to do.



Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Any info how this rubber gets replaced would be appreciated.



Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

With a lot of hard finger work, painful and very tedious. I've done mine twice, best forgotten about.
New rubber is quite pliable, heated is good to get it in. This is all 73T so just might be different.

Today I'm continuing to cut out and replace any rusted parts of the centre tunnel bottom flange, in preparation to receive the floor. I can see why people prefer to work on a stripped shell. There's what looks like a petrol pipe about 10mm behind here so I've inserted some 3mm plate behind as armor.



Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

RobFrost wrote: ↑Sun Jul 10, 2022 7:03 pm The bottom rear of the wheel arch appears to be the only rust, and that's still in shape. So it looks like I can preserve the original, as I prefer to do.

That wing flange unpicks quite easily, to release the entire wing support for a two-part repair. I used a small sharp right-angle pry bar, very carefully, on an old wing to lift the flange a smidge. I suggest shaping the replacement sheet metal wing section before removing the frame though because the wing will become flimsy and very easy to lose the original curvature, and also adding quite a few blind pilot holes to help relocate the support to the same position (otherwise it will no longer match the shape of door).....

I kept the tunnel thoroughly irrigated while introducing fresh steel into the tunnel, so as to minimise heat into all the critical things in there.

The brown stuff that looks like rust on the fronts of the seats is carpet glue.





Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

I discovered why the speedo isn't working. There's a kink in the cable sleeve, which I guess caused this to happen.



All those Christmases spent solving apparently impossible fiddly puzzles must have been good for something.



Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

Never think to yourself; I'll just quickly pull the speedo cable out.

Half a day later.



Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

First offering up of the rear floor.



Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk