Where is Roy's thread on removing the starter?

[neilbardsley]

Might have to have my starter rebuilt

Is this tool or one like it available over here?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/ ... L-TOL-P222

I can't find Roy's useful thread on how to do this

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[Bootsy]

Is it amongst here?

https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/searc ... mit=Search

[Ashley James]

It’s a horrid job, so now I have a high torque one fitted. It’s smaller and easier to take off and put on.

[roy mawbey]

Neil,

You don't explain the starter problem but in any case have you removed and cleaned all earth leads from the battery to the chassis, the earth from the transmission to the chassis as well as checking all leads to the solinoid that is attached to the side of the starter itself?
It is said the phospher bronze bush in the bell housing that the starters main shaft fits into, can wear and that can allow the shaft to drop somewhat and that, can make a change to the starting.

Of course the battery too determines a good start.

Broadway Electrical in Essex who repaired my starter did a great job first class the 6v starter spins as fast as I want it but again all my earths are perfect.
The job itself is a bit awkward, The right side rear wheel removed and the car trolley jacked up from the rear so axle stands can be set on the torsion bar ends On my car the electrical loom has metal clips that allow the loom to be moved a little out of position to get access easier for withdrawing the starter, After disconnecting the battery, remove the starter solinoid connections and then the long top bolt and the bottom nut can be removed. Then the starter can be pulled out.

A tip I found out on replacing the starter the long bolt and its entry into the engine bay when laying on your back is not easy!
The long bolt moves around you can't find the location hole to guide it in, it slips from side to side its difficult.

I got some Bostic Blu-tack molding and put some on top of the starter motor and pressed the long bolt into it to hold it steady I also made sure the threaded end of the bolt was in the right position to go through the entry hole.

I had some time time before, replaced the bronze bush and had the extractor to remove it.

My problem was the copper contacts in the sealed solinoid that Rob at Broadway opened up and its now sealed with nuts and bolts for easy entry!

Maybe this gives you an idea hope so.

Roy

[neilbardsley]

Thank you. I have cleaned all the contacts. The one I don't know how to clean is earth to gearbox because it appears the bolt is welded in?

I think I have a solenoid issue. Twice recently I turned the key and nothing happened. I could see my amp saying that something was asking for 30 amps from the battery. Maybe that means the solenoid isn't the issue because the starter motor is trying and failing to turn the engine.

I charged up the battery a little, 10 mins, and it started.

Once it starts it will always restart.

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[Ashley James]

Get the battery tested first. Same symptoms

[neilbardsley]

Well the 356 wouldn't start this morning again so I decided to remove the starter and failed.

I got the bottom nut off. I put some vice grips on the nut at the back of the fan shroud but couldn't even feel the top bolt head! I felt very stupid and gave up but then a call to Greatworth. Paul told me the top bolt head is captive in a slot so turning the nut inside the engine bay would of worked . I will have another go.

Unfortunately I have to report that Rob at Broadway Electronics has passed away I called to see if they were still working on 6v starters (which they are). He was a good man and has added to many cars on here. RIP sir.

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[Hugo 356]

RIP Rob. As I recall he was cheerfully battling cancer when he rebuilt my starter. Showed me round the workshop where he was working on an E-type & old Bugatti starter. Many a classic still spinning up thanks to him

[roy mawbey]

That was sad news to hear. I will never forget what Rob did for me getting those solinoid points cleaned. Hope you get the starter out Neil.

Roy

[roy mawbey]

Neil my original Bosch starter for my 59 car has substantial threaded studs and nuts on the solinoid not push on spade connectors like yours. I wonder what make yours is? I will put a photo of mine on soon. I wonder if yours is a copy?

The solinoid on yours looks totally sealed ?

Roy

[neilbardsley]

Starter out and with a chap 5 mins drive away that works on them. I prefer not to send them in the post. I will report back. In the end the nut on the long bolt came off easily. There was some sticky material preventing it from moving

https://www.smartpowerclassicandvintage ... ntact.html

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[roy mawbey]

This a pic of my original restored Bosch motor.

[img]postimage.cc/CnqPr3Kz/1137585b[/img]

Roy ( hope the picture shows up )

[roy mawbey]

Did not work try again.


Roy

[neilbardsley]

I've bgt a new long bolt and prepared it so it will not spin



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[neilbardsley]

Roy appears that I have a vw starter. From Jim Breazeale

Bosch never separated the starter part numbers from VW, so when your starter went out, you turned in your Porsche starter and got a VW replacement. There are many threads about correct starters if you want to do some research. The starter motors from about 1961 are the smaller unit and it doesn't make a big difference

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