DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Gary71 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 08, 2023 6:44 pm Take lots of photos and label which cable is which as it all gets very confusing very fast when you don’t… guess what I did!

oh dear:( I might need to get a look at somebody else's car at reassembly time.

mine is still assembled if you need a few pics. happy to help mate

or a vid?

thanks will probably pipe up when time comes for reassembly.

Finally got the heater unit out. A few mods to the heater clips but looks In usable condition. Unsure if it’s been untouched behind the heater but the relays look original.

I did notice the clear vapour box on the right hand side is loose rattling around. I don’t see any rot or much rust.





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Hello.

Need some advice.

The guy working on my car seems to want to replace the floor on my car. That includes front and rear.

Since having it on a ramp and from the pictures I have posted in this thread , I agree I need front quarter sections both sides.

But as for the rear I see no evidence of any Rot or perforation. No discolouration to the metal. It looks solid and good nick.

But… I do have dents to the rear floor but I don’t think that warrants replacing an original rear floor.
With some tidy panel beating I think it would straighten. There are no splits at all.

What do you think guys ?


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The floor comes in two halves from Restoration design so it’s easy enough just to do the front section.

But… I can see wanting to replace the rear section if the edges are so far gone that you can’t cleanly join the new sills in, you need access to the area under the front side of the torsion tube, the seat mounts are rotted out, you need to replace the jacking points or it’s a patchwork quilt already. Mine was all of the above so it came out so I could repair everything properly.

So it might not be the floor itself driving removal it’s just all the things around it that attach to it or are covered by it.

If you have to do lots of small repairs/access holes then it’s probably easier (and cheaper) to whip it off and put the new panel in.

Having looked again at this picture I’d leave well alone.



What’s the plan with the inner/outer sills? Are they ok?

Gary's response is exactly mine too.
Fresh flanges for all the welding will be nicer than one contaminated (by rust) in the sandwich.

I did my 73T in 1988 when there were no panels about so made my own that ran front to back and about 150mm wide.
This gave the sound flanges for the floor/sills etc and just 2 long welds, all recovered my mastic sealler.

Still there today, sound as a £

As an aside, my rear floors had trolley jack dents too, just left them there.

leedurrant73 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 15, 2023 8:41 pm The guy working on my car seems to want to replace the floor on my car. That includes front and rear.
What do you think guys ?

The floor looks in excellent condition judging by these pictures - but we don't know why the guy thinks it needs keep it, perhaps there are some issues..

Only when it would cost far more to replace rotten bits than buying and installing a new floor pan, and factoring in how important it is to stay original, would I consider replacing the floor or floor quarters.

Those floors are tough beasts - mine had a few dents and I tried to carefully hammer them out but the metal didn't want to budge so I left them - lets call it patina. I needed a couple of small patches, and bought a cheap panel and TIG'ed them in such that they were invisible...

Thanks guys.

Appreciate the comments, he didn’t like the fact there are dents in the floor from the bottoming out I guess. I will just fit front repair panels. I want to keep original.

Thanks

FWIW I too found carefully hammering them out was ineffective, but I then discovered enthusiastically hammering them out with a large and heavy hammer yielded surprisingly satisfying end-results. Something about the stampings makes them want to return to their original shape, and they don't really show any hammer marks, at least in my experience.

Excellent

Hello, anyone know what the two holes are used for. Located on the chassis at the rear. Near to rear light housing. Both sides. There threaded holes



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I thought those were bumper mounting points (2 on each side) ... but memory could be wrong ??

Yes, bumper mounts