DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Excellent thank you…… as you can tell I’m a notice but trying hard…. Ha. Thanks Andy

I threw my 1970 911T around Curborough a couple of times with no ARB's and it was huge fun, the body roll enhanced it. Obviously you can corner faster with them installed.

Worth mentioning that if you do add the front ARB it's best to add the reinforcing plate around the three bolts as the mount can tear otherwise.

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Thank you


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RobFrost wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 11:03 pm I threw my 1970 911T around Curborough a couple of times with no ARB's and it was huge fun, the body roll enhanced it. Obviously you can corner faster with them installed.

Worth mentioning that if you do add the front ARB it's best to add the reinforcing plate around the three bolts as the mount can tear otherwise.

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Ah but you see a 912 relies on the momentum to maintain the speed as they don’t have the most amount of torque to fire them out of corners like a 911. Scrub off as little speed as possible before the corner/bend and the accelerate through or at least maintain the speed! 4 wheel drifting fun. Under steer and body roll don’t really fit in with that style of driving!

Just ask anyone who has followed me through the twists of country lanes!!!!

Hey guys. Back to the rear ARB Brackets. Can anyone send me a link to the correct type for a 69t?

I keep see 78 onwards, don’t really want to pay genuine Porsche price for simple bracket. Can anybody assist?

Thanks again

Looks like the 69 to 71 are a bit different to mine (72MY) in the photo I posted earlier.
They changed the rear bulkhead and heater tubes at the same time so I guess the bracket design change as well.

Design 911 stock them though.

Thanks Gary glad I asked. They look real different to yours mate.

That's how I remembered them, a dimple in the bracket that I think (beware!) locates the bracket to a corresponding depression in the panel under the tube.

Back in 1993 when I did my conversion on my 73T I made my own, still sound on the car.
I think Barry has a 'jig' that positions the angle of the bracket flat face? You can't just drop it on and weld it.

hey thanks mate!

that jig sounds handy for sure....... thanks

maybe i can get someone to make me a jig if i pay for it... that would be good!

iirc it 'featured' on a DDK resto thread some years ago. Nothing fancy, just effective, very 'Barry'!

Just looked at the installation video from elephant Racing about installing their rear roll bar mounts.
They simply say to clamp the brackets in the position where there is no chance of anything touching (!)

Bolt the roll bar to the 2 brackets with their bushings/clamps and position to miss everything. A rule of thumb I used to use when in Automotive was 10mm gap between things to allow for things moving and deflecting on any moving part.

I did this when making my own brackets and welding into position with the engine and box in place. The gearbox will 'droop' under it's own weight when on rubber mounts as does the engine, thus the gearbox cross member is tricky to position without the weight bearing on it.

The brackets need to be welded fully to resist the loads imparted on them under hard cornering.

This picture below shows how tight it is under there, BUT, this is for a car later than yours!
Remember also you have to modify the rear 'banana' control arms to take the roll bar drop links... This is all quite a busy job to do, but do-able it is!

Hello, now getting ready to strip out the heater unit. I’ve seen someone on YouTube doing this and they are snap on clips but unsure of year?

It looks like mine have a screw and on the back is a nut. I’m talking about that holds the cable.does it look to have been modified?

It’s a LWB 69 car. Thanks




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Those snap on clips are a pain anyway so be thankful someone has been there before you!

Take lots of photos and label which cable is which as it all gets very confusing very fast when you don’t… guess what I did!

Thanks Gary, I’m going to label with numbers and use a paint pen. Will also take plenty of pics.

Thanks buddy