356A - Replacement Exhaust + Heat Exchangers & Control cans

[mrg3.6]

Hi,

Any UK supplier recommendations for a standard replacement Exhaust + Heat Exchangers & Control Valves for a RHD 1959 356A.

Apart from Sebring style pipes and B/C variants I can't find any stainless steel options for a standard 356A replacement?

Thx
Martin

[Nine One One]

PRS Services?

Mike is an active contributor on here as well - lots of stock

https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... =3&t=68049

[neilbardsley]

Thomas Turbo for stainless steel options.

I bought a Dansk for £220 from 911 Design and fitted to mine.

However, as said above PRS will have everything you need

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[Ashley James]

PRS is a lovely firm to deal with, they’re so helpful. Real enthusiasts.

[mrg3.6]

Thanks all - yes agreed PRS is certainly a great company to deal with, have also emailed Turbo Thomas for SS options.

[mrg3.6]

I bought a Dansk for £220 from 911 Design and fitted to mine.

Neil,

How did you find the quality, durability and fit of the Dansk items?

Did you replace all the bolts clamps and gaskets at the same time.

Thx
Martin

[mrg3.6]

Help please

Started to strip down the 356A, after some considerable effort finally pulled the exhaust once I realised that the engine tin ware was removable to allow access to the top exhaust manifold studs - duh !

Next challenge to get to the rear exhaust manifold studs which are obscured by the heat exchanger tin ware so I can't find a route to access the nuts from underneath the engine - hopefully I don't have to pull the engine to gain access to these studs?

Thx
Martin

[neilbardsley]

I only attempted the rear ones but @SeanP assured me if you are prepared to cut a spanner you can can the front exhaust nuts off. I hope I'm quoting him correctly

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[roy mawbey]

Martin,

In over 50 years of working on 356's I have done the exhaust changes 3 or 4 times. In answer to your question regarding the removal of the heater box and exhaust pipe from the rear of the engine I double checked my service books and each time I had to remove the engine!

The front silencer box and pipes no problem can be done engine in car but... I double checked the Factory Porsche 356A workshop manual and the Elfrink servicing book and they also advise to proceed you remove the engine.

I think from memory everything is so much easier engine out you unscrew the bolt to the junction box ( heater box ) unscrew the both exhaust flange nuts loosen the pipe clamp and take off the heater box and exhaust pipe.

You can see everything so much easier and apply WD40 to the nuts and easily get the spanner on them.

I suppose someone has done the job without engine removal but its not detailed as possible.

Have you got the books to know the procedure to remove the engine ? People that do it all the time its done in well under an hour. You need the trolley jack a board to under the sump protection and someone to at least watch that you clear the first motion shaft from the flywheel assembly.

PRS will tell you if I they have other methods regarding the exhaust removal.

Roy

[mrg3.6]

I only attempted the rear ones but @SeanP assured me if you are prepared to cut a spanner you can can the front exhaust nuts off. I hope I'm quoting him correctly

Thanks Neil,

This journey of discovery (via grazed knuckles and a few choice words) has lead me to discover that by removing the cylinder head covers I can just access the rear exhaust stud nuts from the side using a spanner and remove the 60 year old heat exchangers - getting the replacement heat exchangers back on may be more challenging.

Cheers
Martin

[mrg3.6]

Martin,

Have you got the books to know the procedure to remove the engine ? People that do it all the time its done in well under an hour. You need the trolley jack a board to under the sump protection and someone to at least watch that you clear the first motion shaft from the flywheel assembly.

Roy

Thanks Roy, appreciate the feedback.

Yup, if I can't re-install the new heat exchangers in-situ then I will shortly be having a crack at engine removal

Cheers
Martin

[neilbardsley]

I've had no issues with the Dansk. It went on well. However, many have had issues. I replaced the nuts and gaskets. I used pretty normal nuts off eBay and double gasketed. However, PRS has the better Telefon gaskets as now. What I didn't do well was seal the exhaust onto the pipe from the heat exchangers with paste. This caused a leak and back fire so exhaust paste/seal on all the joints.

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[mrg3.6]

What I didn't do well was seal the exhaust onto the pipe from the heat exchangers with paste. This caused a leak and back fire so exhaust paste/seal on all the joints.

Neil,

Sorry for all the dumb questions but did you apply paste to all the clamped exhaust joints (before and after silencer) and what product do you recommend?

Thx
Martin

[neilbardsley]

This is the joint I'm talking about

This is the paste I used

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[Mike Smith]

I feel guilty for a blatant plug - BUT

PRS are the only company manufacturing proper Heat Control Valves - I was about to say exactly as the originals, however, we improved them by adding a slightly stronger internal return spring (that helps to give a more positive shut off) and in addition there is a superior Heat Resistant sealing material attached to the flap

The other important point, is that they are fitted with sound deadening material inside (as did the originals)
The cheap ones are just empty cans and therefore all the mechanical engine noise is transmitted into the cabin.
Finally - the cheap ones do not fit without modification

All this is why we manufactured our first set approx. 10 x years ago.
I think that the initial run was 20 pairs - We are into the multiple 100`s now and in addition we manufacture them for B`s - C`s - Pre `A`s and `A` Carrera`s

Apologies for the plug