DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Bruce thanks for the info and picture. Will have a look at that flat chassis section, I think I know where you mean, mounts in pic looks like a very simple solution.

The rubber mounts are stock beetle / KG (up to 1972) The same as the items used at the bellhousing. They welded a curved strip of steel to the inner side of the forks.


https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/ ... gL73PD_BwE

I now believe there is no level spot on my KG chassis. I have measured everything and no 2 spots seem to agree. I have set the gear box selector shaft parallel to the gearshift. I have got most obvious flat spots / areas to within +/- 0.3 degrees. I used 4 M10 threaded bars, adjusted to get the best results all round.

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Afternoon,

Managed to design a gearbox mounting plate using the original style rubber mounts. The idea is that the mounts are supported via M12 bolts onto the reinforcement box sections either side of the vw forks and the original gearbox 4 x M8 studs. There is a top hat section that slides into the bottom plate which once positioned correctly I can weld permanently.

Transmission mount and support brackets

However frustratingly I have managed to loose one of the mounts. Looked everywhere, including where I keep the beer ie fridge! It seems to have disappeared off the face of the earth. I guess it will turn up.

Planned to go to the Volksworld show today, but life got in the way this morning, had some time this afternoon and made some good progress today;

The rear suspension cradle mounts to the outer torsion tube. I used 5mm steel which I had plasma cut. Nightmare trying to crawl around underneath to get the welder in and me wearing a welding helmet!

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Best I can tell there seems to be good penetration into the steel. 5mm is at the top end of my Mig at 13amps.

The transmission mounts mocked up for the rear. Working on getting the selector shaft parallel to the chassis and ground so that the engine sits in the engine bay surround correctly. Originally it appeared there was plenty of room, but will be tight to get to all the bolts.

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https://flic.kr/p/2n9uoC4

Looks like there is sufficient space at the output drive shafts to allow the cv joints to have full up and down travel, Once tacked in place will fit the rear suspension to check.

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Next job is to tackle the front transmission mounts using original rubber mounts. Again 5mm steel plasma cut. The plan is then to check all the angles and that everything is level to within +/- 0.3 degrees and then final weld. That would give me front and rear suspension mounted.

Fitting the gearbox consists of several minor adjustments, constantly checking angles and symmetry. I have tacked the back mounts into place and everything at the selector end seems correct. There are quite a few "How to fit the 901" articles, but all seem to be lacking in real details. I changed the four mounting studs under the gearbox and bolted the sliding bracket into place. Using as many OEM parts as possible.

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Gearbox is fitted into place, although only with tack welds. Selector shaft is level to various datums. I think the gearbox is sitting about 10mm higher to clear the drive shafts but should not cause any problems. I need to countersink the gearbox M8 bolts, these bolts have been ordered. Next task is to move forward with mounting the gear shifter and connecting rod, and then go back and finish weld everything.

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More great progress

Loving this build, btw. Will you be using it for motorsport / sprints/ track days / hillclimbing? Or just out and about.

Thanks for the comments, great to get feedback.
Originally was looking at a top end regular driver with tons of Porsche 356 influences.

I have a track tuition day booked at Snetterton in April, expecting to be hooked I suspect the build might head towards motor racing fun. Roll cage, bucket seats, harnesses, wheels/ tyres, race tank, +200 bhp engine but no refinement. Not sure which engine to fit, I have a type 1 1776 which is good for 100bhp but going towards 200bhp and beyond would require more CC, EFI, maybe turbo.

Would still need to be IVA compliant/ tested so that I could drive to the track. The budget instead of going into paint and upholstery could go into the engine. Always go back to the original plan later.

greg356a wrote:Thanks for the comments, great to get feedback.
Originally was looking at a top end regular driver with tons of Porsche 356 influences.

I have a track tuition day booked at Snetterton in April, expecting to be hooked I suspect the build might head towards motor racing fun. Roll cage, bucket seats, harnesses, wheels/ tyres, race tank, +200 bhp engine but no refinement. Not sure which engine to fit, I have a type 1 1776 which is good for 100bhp but going towards 200bhp and beyond would require more CC, EFI, maybe turbo.

Would still need to be IVA compliant/ tested so that I could drive to the track. The budget instead of going into paint and upholstery could go into the engine. Always go back to the original plan later.

Like your thinking! Great build, keep it up

Agree, sound thinking, esp if you are keeping this for a while/years.

If doing hills etc you will be placed into Sports Libre as so much is modified, but will still be fun to say the least.

Maybe a change in direction to something like below? No idea what events mine would be eligible for?

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Really seems to be almost no race prep Karmann Ghia's out there, which makes it very appealing, at least different to the current overload of cars with air ride suspension and big bore turbo motors. So a car at less than 900kg with NA 1776cc type 1 engine should be very entertaining.

Much to consider, even simple stuff, specking up roll cage, seats, harnesses, fuel cell? to this FIA code or that FIA code seems some what daunting. IVA seemed simple by comparison!

Any thoughts?

If hill climbing/sprints I think it's classic under 2l so quite a wide class.

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If you do hills or sprints, the rules are the same, BUT can vary in places.
Chose what you want to do carefully as historic classes are strict, modified a lot less so, Libre is literally fully liberated!

Hills/sprints are very basic, and easy to run a road spec car, but that does mean Standard, even wider rims can get you moved to another class.

The classes are defined by the Motorsport UK organisation so visit their web site for a start.
It will define the class's and you can interpret how your car will 'fit'

It will define the personal protection equipment you will need for a given class, but for any class you will need correct spec helmet, race suit and gloves. (you have just spent £600)

You will need a correct level licence and you will have to join a Club recognized by the events you enter, so you need to choose where your events will be. In doing this you can ask all manner of questions to the Club's Competition Secretary who can answer or point you in the right direction.

In a standard car, you can get properly racing in a speed event for less than £900 and each entry fee is around £150 to £180 there after.

My Lola was once disguised as a Kharmann Ghia!