Electronic Ignition

[mrmojorisin]

Hi all,

Trying to sort out a bit of an engine gremlin and have been told first port of call would be to grade to electronic ignition.

Its a 1969 912, running a Bosch blue coil # 9 220 081083, the distributor cap says Beru VK 106 KO but I cant see anything else.

Could you guys point me in the right direction, I've been looking at Power Spark and Petronix.

Also do you know if the points are left or right hand ?

Thanks,

Grant

[Nine One One]

What issues are you having?

It is pointless ‘upgrading’ to electronic ignition, thinking this is going to solve any problems, without first finding out what the initial problems are.

Could be fuel related, could be valve/tappets/ could just be the points need adjusting, could be a coil or condenser?

[mrmojorisin]

Hi Ian,

The car had a tune and carb balance prior to xmas and was running quite well, but after a decent run out I had a little trouble starting whilst warm. When it did re start the engine felt like it was missing or jumping. This has continued and now after it warms up it feels like its jumping when you put your foot down a little or climb a decent hill.

Its had new points, condenser at the time of the tune, reading the forums it seems that electric points is a worthwhile upgrade, but would be interested to hear peoples thoughts on possible resolution.

Thanks,

Grant

[middlefour1]

As nineoneone said there can be other issues causing the problem. I had 2 Bosch blue coils go down on me, maybe just unfortunate but I know other folk have had problems with them. I had been using a Petronix set up but swapped for the Power Spark with matching coil which certainly made the engine run a lot smoother. Good luck tracking down the fault.

[Nine One One]

When were the HT leads last replaced, that would be my first port of call, also check that the advance is set correctly.

Can you pin it down to a certain rev range, which might mean the carbs are not transitioning from the primary to secondary circuit?

If its just started doing it in the damp cold weather it could well be the HT leads.

Are the float levels correct on the carbs. Could be a fuel blockage, have you got an in line fuel filter.

Don’t think for one minute because the condenser is new its fine, a few of late have had faulty new ones, do you have your old one to re fit? Likewise have you got an old coil, they fail when warmed up, which is where you say your problem is.

Likewise make sure the points are clean, they often come with a protective residue on both points, which needs cleaning off.

I would just check things one by one until you are sure where the problem actually is.

Fitting electronic ignition may only amplify what this original underlying problem actually is.

We have all been there, its just being practical and trying to dismiss one item after another as the culprit.

[Timo]

It sounds to me like an electrical contact making and breaking, as others have suggested work your way through methodically, start by checking/replacing if necessary HT leads and spark plugs, if no luck here work your way through the ignition system, points, condenser, coil, timing. Once you’ve identified the area at fault and rectified it then you can decide if you want to upgrade to elec ignition.

[Jonny Hart]

I would not fit any contactless ignition that uses magnets in a plastic collar as you cannot guarantee that each cylinder fires at regular intervals. This is because the magnets are only set ‘approximately’ in the collar and also because the strength of each magnet not guaranteed to be the same.

I cured a long standing misfire in a Saab Sonnett on the way to the last CLM simply by moving the coil. The owner had it mounted so that the king lead boot was very close to the inner wing. It was sparking to the wing.

Start the engine in the dark and closely look for stray sparks.

[mrmojorisin]

Thanks for the good advice all, I will do as suggested and try and isolate the issue by working through the steps.

[SeanP]

I cured a long standing misfire in a Saab Sonnett on the way to the last CLM simply by moving the coil. The owner had it mounted so that the king lead boot was very close to the inner wing. It was sparking to the wing.

ahemCough Cough

Team Effort

Cough Splutter Cough

[SeanP]

Could be HT leads or distributor cap,-rotor arm

Start with the basics

What distributor is installed in the engine?
Are the HT leads on the spark plugs correctly?
Are the HT leads on the distributor cap and pushed home correctly?

Where are you located? maybe some nearby with a knowledge of these could have a look

[Jonny Hart]

I cured a long standing misfire in a Saab Sonnett on the way to the last CLM simply by moving the coil. The owner had it mounted so that the king lead boot was very close to the inner wing. It was sparking to the wing.

ahemCough Cough

Team Effort

Cough Splutter Cough

Credit where it’s due. I wafted in and said move the coil and then let others get their hands dirty.

[Adrian3]

i've gone for 123 Tune + distributor, Flamethrower coil, uprated VW-type leads/plug caps and seems to be working well.....it means you can set the advance curve to any settings you like....i can't believe you guys are still struggling with points

[mrmojorisin]

The original issue with mine was the timing had got knocked out, the distributer was not properly tightened.

However I've also upgraded HT leads, Coil and electric points - not yet fitted but will report back once they go in.