Backdating a Forward Date!

[dc2100k]

Hi all,

First post here as a 996 owner and aircooled 'interested party'!

I am looking to get an older car to replace my 996 as a fun car and also to possibly use as a historic rally car. I have identified a car that looks in reasonable shape and for a reasonable sum but it is an early 70's car that has been forward dated at some point to resemble a narrow bodied G-series Carrera. It's a non-sunroof car with the deep front airdam but no whaletail and is running on 70's Fuchs alloys. It has a 2.4 engine on carbs and (I think) a 915 gearbox. I'm certain there is a element of frankenstein to the car but that's not a big problem for me considering my intended usage! Most importantly the shell seems to be free from serious corrosion.

Can anyone advise what to look for in terms of working out exactly what the car is? I guess it's an early 70's 911T originally but doesn't have the oil door. Is there anything else on the shell that would give the game away in terms of working out what it is? I hope to view the car shortly and just want to be prepared when I do get a chance to see it.

Thanks in advance.
dc2100k

[stretch]

Check the parcel shelf. A 69 -71 will be ribbed all the way across. 72-on is different. The lack of an oil door may just be a cheaper wing fitted. Check under the rear wing for the 72-on oil tank.? That will narrow it down.

[KS]

Chassis number?

[hot66]

Post some pics up and people, here would be able to spot things straight away. Huge amount of detail differences ... cant really list them

But ..

Usually the dash is a giveaway to wether it’s a later shell... no vents in the middle is a good sign.

Next check for hand throttle and single heat control lever by the handbrake

Rear slam panel for the deck.id is different post mid 73 ( although a lot of genuine early cars have had this later panel fitted due to the early style not being available

Oil filler in the wing was 72 only

[hot66]

The above was wether to tell if it’s an IB 74 on shell that’s had an early chassis number swapped in

[dc2100k]

Thanks all for the information, very useful.

I just wanted to avail myself of some of the detail differences before I see the car in order not to be blinded by the obvious details. I can't see the parcel shelf but I will look for that and the oil tank location.

The car has two small levers by the handbrake (one black, one red). It also has two crescent shaped air vents under the screen and two small side vents on the dash (but not the two larger vents in the middle). Does this suggest it is actually a 74-on car and was probably IB from the factory? In that case the engine must be non-original. Is there a way of dating from the torsion tube?

Thanks again.

[inaglasshouse]

Do you have doubts about the VIN? If not, start with that?

[Sam]

There are so many interchangeable parts from 65 - 89 (even 93) it could easily have gone either way.

A photo of the VIN is defo the place to start.

[dc2100k]

The car has been off the road for a good many years and before that I am told it was used for hillclimbs. I believe it is not road registered at the moment and I don't have any details of the VIN right now. The interior is stripped but otherwise I believe the car to be largely complete.

The chassis number should be on a raised plate by the spare wheel well in the front as well as on the VIN plate on the trunk side panel for these cars right? And then there is a production number on the dashboard under the radio cutout?

I will try to get a viewing of the car shortly but it's not local to me and the present world situation is complicating things somewhat!

I am not averse to the idea of a car without great authenticity, indeed for historic rally use a bit of a mongrel would be better in many respects! However, clearly if I run into problems getting it re-registered then it's not of much use to me. I have been through this process with another car before and have a working knowledge of what's required.

I suppose at the end of the day if I can get it for the value of the parts then even if I can't make a historic rally car out of it then at least I should be able to extricate myself from the situation for minimal financial loss. I suppose this is where it is useful to know if it is a longnose car as the shell does appear to be rust free - which I was very surprised about - and would obviously make its value for repair sections greater than a G-series car.

[inaglasshouse]

The chassis number should be on a raised plate by the spare wheel well

Stamped into the bulkhead near the spare wheel. First thing to get a photo of?
That will establish year of manufacture (year and body style etc are encoded in the VIN).
From there you can get also production details from Porsche including proof of year of manufacture, which is all you really need for registration.
(none of which helps if the VIN has been tampered with or removed, of course, but that's a different story).

[dc2100k]

Thanks all, still waiting for more information and will let you know once I have it.

[rhd racer]

Appreciate you may not want to post pics on an open forum pre purchase. However, if the car had been hill climbing, there are at least 3 of us that have been doing it for a good few years in the UK. I have the least experience at 17 years, and jwillhillracer (Jonathan) and 911hillclimber (Graham) both longer still - chances are we will know it. By all means PM us and we will try and help. There are more too, and some very knowledgable motorsport followers - ex drivers will certainly prompt memories I am sure.

Good luck
Cheers
Wayne

[RobFrost]

The above was wether to tell if it’s an IB 74 on shell that’s had an early chassis number swapped in

Is that illegal? What's DVLA view on that? Do you think there are many of those going around?

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

[911hillclimber]

If the chassis number has been tampered with or replaced, then I would walk away. It is bound to become an issue along the line.

There must be a simple chart somewhere on Google for early chassis number breakdowns of these cars, and the vin (certainly on a 73 car) identifies a lot, in fact all you need to know what you have.

James' list is a good one, also some later (80's) cars have welded-on jacking pads below the A post and the C posts for garage lifts.

Finally, you could get a Porsche specialist to inspect the car to verify the year etc and tally all the numbers.

Feel free to sent pm a pic of the car to see if I remember it from the main hillclimb venues in the Midlands, Jonathan has vast numbers of years experience across the whole of the UK.

Take your time so you can rest easy to understand the car's history, DDK will always help you out!

[Lightweight_911]

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