Ok so firstly on the plastic liners - these weren’t blow formed or anything they were literally bendy sheets of thick plastic that were meant to be the right shape.
With the lokaris you have a couple of L shaped Ali brackets - you screw/rivnut them into the inner wing and then screw/rivnut the lokaris onto them.
The Lokaris have thick rubber edging to them and they are meant to be jammed into the space available. I still had to peel back the rubber, cut the Ali to shape and then cut up the rubber to fit the new shape - pop riveting it into place.
When you screw them in, choose something substantial - they are going to get covered in crap so self-tappers (that come with the lokaris) are a waste of time - next year you’ll have to drill them out - I used M6 bolts
Too good to miss
Moderator: Miggs
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- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
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- Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2005 9:08 pm
- Location: Nottingham, UK
Re: Too good to miss
The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
Re: Too good to miss
Locari inner arch guards.
The back ones were fairly easy.
I did use the L shaped bracket that Locari supplied to attach to the inner wing and in fact I used self tappers but always intended replacing them but never did so. I think the ones I used were a bit bigger than those supplied.
At the front the guard is wedged in front of the torsion bar covers.
However on one side it needs to be modified at the front if you have all the gubbings for a front oil cooler.
At the back I used self tappers into the wing support tubes but if I did it again I would just use a couple of plastic ties around the wing support tubes.
The front ones.
At the front I made up a bracket that attached to the battery box.
At the back I made a bracket that attached to one of the front wing rear attachment bolts which also allowed space for the oil cooler pipes when they got fitted.
I think I also put a bracket at the top that was attached to one on the top wing attachment 'k' bolts to stop the guard going too high but I do not think it was attached to the guard at all but just used as away of stopping the guard going too high.
I am not sure how helpful all this is but was prompted to write it because someone raised the question of self tappers and I just wanted to state that I only used self tappers on the bodywork to attach one bracket as I was also not happy about the idea of lots of self tappers.
Also I just used a rattle can to spray them matt black so they were not so noticeable.
The back ones were fairly easy.
I did use the L shaped bracket that Locari supplied to attach to the inner wing and in fact I used self tappers but always intended replacing them but never did so. I think the ones I used were a bit bigger than those supplied.
At the front the guard is wedged in front of the torsion bar covers.
However on one side it needs to be modified at the front if you have all the gubbings for a front oil cooler.
At the back I used self tappers into the wing support tubes but if I did it again I would just use a couple of plastic ties around the wing support tubes.
The front ones.
At the front I made up a bracket that attached to the battery box.
At the back I made a bracket that attached to one of the front wing rear attachment bolts which also allowed space for the oil cooler pipes when they got fitted.
I think I also put a bracket at the top that was attached to one on the top wing attachment 'k' bolts to stop the guard going too high but I do not think it was attached to the guard at all but just used as away of stopping the guard going too high.
I am not sure how helpful all this is but was prompted to write it because someone raised the question of self tappers and I just wanted to state that I only used self tappers on the bodywork to attach one bracket as I was also not happy about the idea of lots of self tappers.
Also I just used a rattle can to spray them matt black so they were not so noticeable.
#1370
Re: Too good to miss
Some good feedback on the fittings. I'm still not quite clear about the fixing methods on the wheel arch side, and whether it involves drilling the wheel arch rims? The S-clips or S-shaped rubber seal like they might provide an alternative attachment method around the arches, without drilling, do you think?
Dean
1973T Targa MFI 334 met blu- under restoration https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 28&t=67060
1980 924 Turbo, blu/grn tartan - restored
1973T Targa MFI 334 met blu- under restoration https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 28&t=67060
1980 924 Turbo, blu/grn tartan - restored
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- Nurse, I think I need some assistance
- Posts: 8729
- Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2005 9:08 pm
- Location: Nottingham, UK
Re: Too good to miss
No drilling on the wheel arch side - the rubber should wedge into the wing. The only drilling is on the inner arch side
My comments about self tappers were more relevant to me as I used to drive my car every day
My comments about self tappers were more relevant to me as I used to drive my car every day
The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
Re: Too good to miss
On both the Rolls Royce and MGB wheel arch liners I used stainless steel self tappers where they were needed. OK neither were daily drivers but always simple to remove. That said I used standard pan head types as much deeper recess for screwdriver tip insert head than the flange head ones that were originals. On MGB had to drill into wheel arch inner lip which I did not like but RR has a double skin on the outer front wings so drilling was underneath on the inner metal and not on the wheelarch lip. Always same SS screws whenever fitting mudflaps and chuck what is supplied.
Steve
Steve
Re: Too good to miss
Looks like a lovely car