It started with a pop

[neilbardsley]

I thought that someone in 356 registery used this idea but the return was into the oil pump? I will try to find the article.

Just found the article and you are using the picture from it. Tried to email the article to you Andrew. Just remember it written by Ron who makes the precision works full flow

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[robs912]

The precision matters unit has a pressure relief valve built into the unit and I wanted to keep my original filter set up as well (mainly for the engine bay appearance).
I'm sure there are pros and cons with both setups but this is one I chose to go with. Good luck with the engine rebuild.

[newto912]

Hi Andrew
If it helps,I have a Stahlwille torque multiplier you can borrow
Andrew

[Nine One One]

https://precisionmatters.biz/pdf/full-f ... ration.pdf

[AndrewSlater]

Thanks for all the help everyone.

The link Ian has supplied is the one Neil has already kindly emailed me.

Thanks for the info Robs912, do you have any installation instructions - they seem very lacking on the PrecisionMatters website.

I'm still just toying with the idea as the costs are already mounting up and as you say its an expensive part that will only get more expensive to import.
I'm not aware of a UK distributor.

Ollie is your kit something you manufacture yourself - I'm not aware of your company?

Andrew thanks for the offer with regard to the torque multiplier, I may be in touch to take you up on the offer when I get closer to that point of the rebuild.

As for the rebuild, I have been finished checking out parts and have now ordered all my replacements ( hopefully ) across a number of suppliers RosePassion, Roger Bray, Design911.

The crank was pretty dirty but is bang on its first undersize on all bearings, so I do think this was re-machined less than 1000 miles ago.
I've spent about 6 hours cleaning it up and then lightly repolishing. It will probably get a final clean before refit.



All the bearings aren't in a terrible state of wear although it looks like some contaminant has run through them.
I suspect the engine was rebuilt but it wasn't very well cleaned as a lot of the internals were pretty black, more so than I would expect given mileage on rebuild.

I also removed the fourth bearing from the third piece, heated to about 70 degrees and then a few taps to knock it out.



The camshaft is in pretty good shape with only a small amount of wear around one of the journals, so again cleaned up with the bearing faces polished and will go again, as will the cam followers as they all look pretty fresh.

I'm trying not to be over critical as it is easy to just replace everything and that gets expensive !

[Nine One One]

Andrew,
Have you given Max at Revival a ring to see what options he has for an external filter?

Seems as you are going to the lengths you are, he probably has a solution to doing so, and leaving the engine bay looking stock.

[robs912]

Hi Andrew
I got mine from andy prill. He imports the precision matters stuff from the usa.
In fact I got a lot of my rebuild parts from him as his prices were really competitive and he is a really helpful guy.
Cheers Rob

[newto912]

I have a precision matters FF kit, but keeping it for my next project
I currently have a shasta FF kit on my engine, they both involve modifying the oil pump area in the 3rd piece, I have instructions for the PM kit somewhere and can dig it out
it is not complicated to do, and if you can rebuild a 911 engine you certainly have the capabilities!
if you do get one it comes with instructions
BW
Andrew

[Adrian3]

Ollie, i too am going with the 'old-timer' method of oil filtering. There will be a small but definite initial pressure drop through the type of filter which is teed off the oil pump cover, which will slightly delay pressure to the galleries, whereas this doesn't happen with the old-timer method: do you have details of your kit?

Andrew, you probably know that cyl 3 seems to cause more than its fair share of problems in these engines, so it may be more than just ring positioning.

[robs912]

Hi adrian.
I don't understand how there is a pressure drop? Just trying to understand not disagreeing.
Cheers
Rob

[neilbardsley]

Ollie, i too am going with the 'old-timer' method of oil filtering. There will be a small but definite initial pressure drop through the type of filter which is teed off the oil pump cover, which will slightly delay pressure to the galleries, whereas this doesn't happen with the old-timer method: do you have details of your kit?

Andrew, you probably know that cyl 3 seems to cause more than its fair share of problems in these engines, so it may be more than just ring positioning.

Experts on the 356 forum say 3 doesn't run hotter

http://forum.porsche356registry.org/vie ... 22#p207022

A careful examination of the inside of the fan shroud shows that there is a special passage over the top of the oil cooler. This puts the air onto the cylinder head on the left side. With the cooler removed, a large amount of air is dumped on the cylinder barrels of the left side. This results in a loss in air pressure directed to the cylinder heads of both banks inside the fan shroud. It's the heads that need cooling, not the barrels. That's why Craig Richter, as Ron pointed out, and also Gene Berg insisted on not removing the original oil cooler when adding an additional cooler.
My temperatures run around 350* in the winter (40*F outside air temp) to 400* (90*F OAT) at 70MPH. The highest temperatures I've seen are 425* racing other 356s up Pacheco Pass in the central valley of CA, a very long fairly steep climb.

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[Adrian3]

Rob, at start up there will be a pressure gradient from immediately downstream of the pump, say 100 psi to atmospheric at the journals, this pressure gradient only takes a few seconds to equalise but it takes slightly longer if there are obstructions on the way, e.g. a filter. With the old-timer method, the filter comes after the priority valve, hence the oil pressure does not have to build up through it.

Neil, why did VW spend great effort/resource to much more highly develop their fan housing, post '71....just for fun? Look inside their housing and you will see the huge difference.
What is said is that, if you do remove the stock cooler, you need to insert a baffle plate, with holes in, where the cooler was because, otherwise, too little air goes to cyl 1& 2.

[robs912]

Hi Adrian
The pre mat filter is mounted below sump level and is therefore always filled with oil so will have to agree to disagree with you on this one.
Cheers
Rob

[Timo]

I’ve read about this pressure drop through the filter before, as you say though rob if the filter remains full of oil the only time you’ll have an issue is surely after an oil change when the filter is empty? Unless the route to the galleries is extended with the full flow kit meaning additional time taken to pressurise the lines if the oil drains off between starts?

[Adrian3]

ok, look at it this way......if there was a huge obstruction or length of pipe before the oil reaching the galleries, there would be a definite length of time before full oil pressure was achieved at he galleries. Although oil is incompressible, it will still take time for the pressure to build up and a filter and (possibly)oil lines will make this build-up time longer. Convince me otherwise.