DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

That is a good thought JW. It has just under 170 lbft. Might have to look at the options.

I've used a plastic alignment tool with the right splines for 30+ years and about 25 clutch alignments, all allowed the box to slip on (as much as any 915 'slips on')
You need one that will pass into the spigot bearing as deep as possible, that is what gives the concentric alignment.

Thanks Graham. I'm more relaxed about it if we are doing the gearbox change over out the car rather than attempt it with the box staying in the car!

Doubt you would get the box out of a 911 with the engine still in even with the rear tunnel mod done.

You can Graham, but depending on the clutch arrangement it may not save much time.

The964is marginal, but relies on a sticky tape solution to do the release bearing, so is a PITA. That’s why we opted to drop the whole thing to do my clutch recently. Like all these jobs, the solutions can get a bit more creative on a ramp above your head, so often don’t work DIY..

Cheers
Wayne

We are definitely taking the engine and box out together in the traditional fashion now. I think I've got most of the bits needed now. Will be having a go at it on Monday.

Ramp v diy on your back, a world of difference!

A ramp must be great to have.
I know someone (hillclimber) who changed a clutch on a 2.2 on a road side in France keeping the box in. Said he would never do it again and he was 30 years younger too.

Good luck on Monday Graham, hope it goes smoothly, easier getting the thing out than back in …..

yes, very pleased to be doing this in a proper workshop and not DIY on my garage floor!

So, good day in the workshop. Dropped the old motor out. Very simple with a 4-post lift and a hydraulic trolley! Then did lots of head-scratching about the wiring. Worked out a plan that preserved the engine loom and the wiring in the engine bay and put the new motor in! Had to swap the clutch and flywheel from the old engine onto the new to fit the 901 box. But all very straightforward!

New motor in!

IMG_20201214_161817 by graham Ridgway, on Flickr

New look rear, much meaner than a single exit pipe!

IMG_20201214_165116 by graham Ridgway, on Flickr

Just scratching my head as to where the MFI fuel pump goes. Also the PET picture doesn't number the bit in the middle where it all bolts to. Any pictures out there? or descriptions!
Thanks
PET fuel pump by graham Ridgway, on Flickr

And finally for the evening. I happily bought from DDK a used rpm transducer to do te MFI fuel cutoff.

Imagine my surprise to find that there was already one on the car. It is admittedly an E spec motor that was in it. But the car was a T and is running on carbs so wasn't expecting that. I thought the silver box was the rear screen relay. It seems I was wrong!

What a fun day out!

Graham

The RPM transducer was also used for a fuel cut on on a Zenith carb, so not entirely surprising. Give it a shake, see if it rattles !!

Ah thanks Tim, that makes sense. It doesn't rattle when shaken!

Was it essentially the same set up as with the mfi with a micro switch on the throttle linkage and a solenoid?

Do you know the best way to test the rpm transducer? Is it just in situ with the engine running? At the fuel cutoff solenoid?

Cheers
Graham

Signal generator and a 12v power supply, with a bulb that lights when the relay contacts close is the best to determine exactly what is happening, certainly if it doesn’t work ! Sure, use the engine as the signal generator. There’s useful schematics on Pelican .