BIB5566

[PMNorris]

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The '69 S models came with a 15mm arb F&R as std -optional on other models.

Sometimes T & E models came with just a front arb in which case a 13mm bar was fitted.

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Here's a diagram showing all the parts for a front arb fitment:



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According to my CoA, my Germany delivered 1970T was optioned with a 20mm stabiliser bar at the front, 18mm at the rear.

[Lightweight_911]

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Almost certainly one of the typical CoA mistakes.

I've never seen/heard of an original Porsche 'through the body' 20mm front arb.

An 18mm front bar was introduced with the '73 2.7RS models - that's the biggest pre-impact bumper Factory arb I've seen.

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[jwhillracer]

My UK RHD 1969 "S" came with 15mm ARB's front and rear. I changed the front one for an 18mm unit which greatly improved the stability and handling.



JW

[Cortina]

Looks like UWD774G is still waiting for it's first MOT !!!! .............. where is it now ?

PS Looks like a Craigantlet corner ??

[rhd racer]

Looks like UWD774G is still waiting for it's first MOT !!!! .............. where is it now ?

PS Looks like a Craigantlet corner ??

I’m going with Gurston Down.....

[jwhillracer]

Looks like UWD774G is still waiting for it's first MOT !!!! .............. where is it now ?

PS Looks like a Craigantlet corner ??

It was MoT'd regularly at the time, but it was way before electronic records!
We bought it in 1979, just before our first baby (!) having had an Irish Green 914 before that I had rebuilt from fire damage, and taken out to 2.1 litre on twin SuperVee Solexes, and a few other nice bits.
The 911S had already been welded , and fitted with fibreglass front wings, at 10 years old, remember! I also had to do more welding around the sills and kidney bowls to get it through one MoT..........
The buzz of getting the 2litre engine set up right, and then keeping the needle between 5 and 7200 is still fresh in my mind. On that car, it made a big difference getting the dwell angle set accurately, even though several experts told me it didn't make any difference with CDI.
Unfortunately it lost an argument with a dry stone wall behind the rhododendrons to the left of the Gate at Wiscombe Park in September 1981. There were various extenuating circumstances involving a very late night, copious amounts of alcohol, and a very early start to change the brake master cylinder at 5 in the morning before the event, but that was life at the time.............
Anyway, we took it down the road to Oak Tree Garage, and Crispin and Josh Sadler checked it over. It was about 5" shorter one side than the other. The considered opinion was that it needed about £1500 of accident repairs, and about another £1500 to sort out all the rust damage. As it was only worth about £3000 at the time (I paid £2650 for it!) it wasn't worth doing, and we broke it.
And that explains in a few short lines why so few of those lovely cars survive today!

The corner isn't Craigantlet, unfortunately. We didn't get to bring that car over for it, it is Ashes at Gurston Down.

Here's the same corner in not quite so nice conditions a couple of years ago in our present car.


We brought this car to Craigantlet and Kirkistown in 1987 when they had both events the same weekend, which made it worthwhile. My brother Mervyn shared the drive at Kirkistown. That was a great week-end!

[knapmann]

A lot of questions as expected.
All my 30 years of experience is with my 1973 T hotrod, your car could be different:

The car should have an electric pump.
The Haynes book has all the wire diagrams you need so you can find the wires when you have it.

Koni damper inserts will be oil not gas. Gas damper extend themselves, oil has to be pulled/compressed manually.

Koni dampers are not all adjustable. Some are and you have to compress the piston down by hand and the turn the rod against a step in side, there is info on the net. I have mine at the rear on 1/2 way, good starting point imho. You need to remove one of the damper inserts from the strut and see what is stamped on the body. I think KONI have an office in the UK who could help.

Changing to poly bushes can lead to squeeky suspension over time.
iirc you can change/fit he front anti roll bar with everything in place. Some T's have the holes in the shell some do not. All missing parts are available with specialists or ebay.
Doubt the factory fitted parts of the system, all or nothing. Mine had nothing, but I converted front and rear to have them.

Re-bush the pedal shaft, kits available in metal and plastic.

If your model/year is different to what I has written, the Experts will be along asap!

Excellent info thanks! It seems like I have half a kit installed then, if T's never came witha ARB as standard. On this note (addressed to all) , how do I find out what options etc my car came with from the factory?

[knapmann]

.

The '69 S models came with a 15mm arb F&R as std -optional on other models.

Sometimes T & E models came with just a front arb in which case a 13mm bar was fitted.

.

Here's a diagram showing all the parts for a front arb fitment:



.

I need all of the parts 28-36 for both sides it seems. The drop link appear to be available from aftermarket places but maybe not the arm off the bar itself (29)...

[knapmann]

Fuel pumps : Both models are electric - but different pumps in different places .... may be the point.

I don't know where the S model in 2 litre form should have it's pump (73 was at rear left - rubber mounted on support bracket - 2 wire , 3 fuel connections)
I suspect T std pump was in engine bay and maybe only had inlet and outlet fuel connections ?

I think Neil's question is where should (injection compatible) pump be on S model and what is it's std wiring configuration ? (and fuel configuration while you are at it)

Thanks Alan. On '02s the the carb models had mechanical pumps on the engine, only injection models had electric pumps, I thought maybe the same deal with 911s but seemingly not.

My pump is mounted just as you say, rear left (of fuel tank) - rubber mounted on support bracket - 2 wires , 3 fuel connections. And yes my question is regarding configuration. I assume the pump must be the correct one for the engine (although you have me worried now, as it sounds like there were many different ones), but how did the two wires get to the pump? It surely didnt just go through the smugglers box!

I'm learning how hard it is to find out good information about these cars, the pre-89 911 changed so much over the years that 95% of the info you read about is irrelevant to your particular year/model, again in the land of BMW 2002, 95% of info you read is relevant to every car, much easier. That said, nothing worth having comes easy!

[knapmann]

My UK RHD 1969 "S" came with 15mm ARB's front and rear. I changed the front one for an 18mm unit which greatly improved the stability and handling.



JW

18mm front ARB it is!

I wonder about suspension on these cars, on '02s plenty of places sell suspension packages i.e. roll bars, springs and shocks together as different grades "stock" "Street" "sport" "track" "track+" etc I dont seem to be able to find any defined setup packages at the moment for the 911, its custom everything, which doesnt help a newbie know what goes together best... maybe im not looking in the right places. (I hate to harp on about my 02 experience but its all I know)

[hot66]

Have a look at elephant racing website ..... your eyes will water if you add it all up .... but there are cheaper ways .

In reality there are plenty of tried and tested routes, just depends what you’re trying to achieve

[knapmann]

Short day today, (the sun came out!)

Cleaned up brake discs (what a bitch of a job, should have bought that lathe with the car too!)



Cleaned up the pedal assembly, this was absolutely filthy, and totally gummed up, all new bushes are required, they are worn to buggery, (it was clearly on the list because i have some new bushes in my pile of parts somewhere!)


Headliner removed (yellow, old, etc)




Any recommendations for how to get all the gluey. foamy mess off the pillars?


Started re-doing the wiring with what im calling the headlight loom... call me a pedant but lovely looking wiring costs nothing but is is worth a million dollars to me



I'll tackle the main loom as soon as I know how the fuel pump wiring is routed!

Oh and another thing I've noted, I have a dog leg box and a 915/std pattern gear knob! one cannot have a dogleg and not show it off! my list of required parts has started to grow!!

[rhd racer]

Great job on that loom

[Cortina]

Fuel pumps : Both models are electric - but different pumps in different places .... may be the point.

I don't know where the S model in 2 litre form should have it's pump (73 was at rear left - rubber mounted on support bracket - 2 wire , 3 fuel connections)
I suspect T std pump was in engine bay and maybe only had inlet and outlet fuel connections ?

I think Neil's question is where should (injection compatible) pump be on S model and what is it's std wiring configuration ? (and fuel configuration while you are at it)

Thanks Alan. On '02s the the carb models had mechanical pumps on the engine, only injection models had electric pumps, I thought maybe the same deal with 911s but seemingly not.

My pump is mounted just as you say, rear left (of fuel tank) - rubber mounted on support bracket - 2 wires , 3 fuel connections. And yes my question is regarding configuration. I assume the pump must be the correct one for the engine (although you have me worried now, as it sounds like there were many different ones), but how did the two wires get to the pump? It surely didnt just go through the smugglers box!

I'm learning how hard it is to find out good information about these cars, the pre-89 911 changed so much over the years that 95% of the info you read about is irrelevant to your particular year/model, again in the land of BMW 2002, 95% of info you read is relevant to every car, much easier. That said, nothing worth having comes easy!

Slight misunderstanding - on my 1973 car (correct) the fuel pump was at the rear left of the car (not rear left of fuel tank) - in a bracket near to the rear torsion bar. Where the one should be for the 2.0 car is the question ... along with the wiring route etc.
You're making rapid progress - don't wear yourself out !

[inaglasshouse]

1969 S fuel pump is mounted next to the steering rack. The version for MFI is different than the one for carbs.

OK, now I'm going to say something controversial! It's meant with respect - it's your car and you should do what you want with it, but just a thought... there are quite a lot of original finishes still in place on this car; it's a really nice starting point. I'm wondering why it's a good idea to re-wrap the loom in cloth (which was not used originally), as opposed to cleaning up the original (maybe not feasible for this component, but general principle - it's only original once...) or re-wrapping in vinyl per the factory?