DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

The lever itself must be moving in a rotational manner? Can't be actually doing whole circles?

I wonder if in the past a cheap short shift kit has been fitted and the glue'weld failed (# 17 is changed)

Are the retaining clips on the shaft? # 15 x2 and 16? or #18 x 2 are not in place?

Thanks Graham
The shaft #17 is made in two parts - the steel shaft and an alloy base section. My steel shaft is rotating in the base section (oh err missus, and me a married man).

Thoughts are (avoiding dismantling if possible) to drill horizontally through the side of the base section and pin or grub screw the steel shaft, or if I can't get in there, to drill vertically down between the steel shaft and the base section and insert a grub screw. IIRC the steel shaft didn't pull out last time, but as it feels looser this time, if it can pull out, then simply glueing it back in with JB Weld or similar.

Soooo, having removed the centre console thingy, the tower obscures access to the lower section of the gearstick, so a horizontal grub screw wasn't happening unless I dismantled the tower. While peering into the abyss, I realised that the gate of my Seine had fallen off and was lying in the tunnel. A bit of long magnet waving and it was recovered.

Back to the main event and onto Plan B - with a lot of wiggling and maybe a bit of huffing and puffing, the upper steel section finally came out of the lower section.


There was a lot of corrosion and/or dried glue in there, so that suggests it was glued originally. I cleaned that out, and 'polished' the important area of the steel upper section.


Then I mixed and 'stuffed' JB Weld down the hole and inserted the steel section. Or didn't - the JB Weld is sooo viscous that it wouldn't escape past the steel upper section and prevented it from going down low enough. Plan C saw me trying to remove enough JB Weld to get the steel bit in the hole, the welder was fetched and the battery isolator pulled to protect the alternator.


It was awkward to get at, so not pretty welding by any stretch, but the steel section is fixed to the lower section and the Seine gate is attached once again. Then reassembly is simply ..... refit centre console, reset the clock, turn the battery cutout back on, and had I FUBAR'ed the alternator... Of course not - car started right up an the charging light went out.

Job well jobbed (for now anyway).

Good work Peter.

I don’t know if you have come across them, but I find mikalor clamps much more reliable for structural jobs (like holding that guide in place) or pipes that need to be really tight. Might be worth looking at one for that (sorry if teaching you to suck eggs, but I only discovered them a couple of years ago…)

Cheers
Wayne

I had a Seine conversion on my original tower and used a clip to locate the tab to ensure all was well. Then welded the tab to the stick, removed the clip after.
Didn't get on wihy the device tbh, sold to a DDK'r years ago.

After a long time with the Rennshift, now back to stock and much happier!

rhd racer wrote: ↑Thu Jan 26, 2023 5:19 pm Good work Peter.

I don’t know if you have come across them, but I find mikalor clamps much more reliable for structural jobs (like holding that guide in place) or pipes that need to be really tight. Might be worth looking at one for that (sorry if teaching you to suck eggs, but I only discovered them a couple of years ago…)

Cheers
Wayne

Yes thanks Wayne. Good idea (bit late now though) - I use them on all my rubber pipes

Having run armoured Cat 5 to the garage and Cat 6 to the kitchen, I was looking for another little project to avoid having to dig over the wildflower garden. Maybe time to fit the LED headlights that had been sitting in the garage while it was cold.

First, remove the trim ring retaining screw


Followed by the headlight retaining screw


Disconnect the spaghetti


Release the bulb retaining springs and remove the H4 bulb




Insert the LED bulb. I elected to have the heatsinks low profile (they are reversible, which probably makes more sense when you have one in your hot & sticky), but they had to be partially unscrewed to get the spring bulb retainers back in to place.


Screw heatsink fully down


Test fit transformer thingy, holding it in place with tape & refitting headlight assembly


Feel grateful that you used tape first time, and reposition a little lower down


Test fit then secure with a self tapper


And refit headlamp and trim ring




Not sure how well it shows in this photo, but the LHS, hi-power Phillips halogen bulb is more yellow and not as bright. Cut off on the RHS LED is sharp.



Repeat for the LHS & test on lo-beam


And hi-beam



Simples

It's been a while since I have managed to swing by Chez K and wave a few spanners with him. However, I am absolutely delighted to see that my absence has not been detrimental in Project '79 Targa Restoration moving forward.

Still following your progress with interest, its looking great and its spurred me on to do a bit more getting my SC back together

Which make of HID kit was this and how do you find it at night?

Thx
I used the ClassicCarLED kit - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/produc ... 3e67&_ss=r

Not used them at night yet, but they looked better than my power Phillips bulbs in the dark garage

Car going well .....but it has got a tad dirty

Good to see

Come a loooooooooong way since we took it to Cannock to be dipped Peter. Fantastic job mate. Take a bow

I added a Seine kit to my USA 82 SC Coupe and like it immensely. I welded the tab on. I’d already solved my 915’s recalcitrant 1-2 and 3-2 resolved by sending the ‘box to a good shop, which replaced not just the 1/2 synchros but also the slider. I use Kendall oil. Together it’s all relatively delightful.

Best, John

Having ‘fixed’ the gearstick, I will try readjusting the rear coupling. Seems like a bit more ‘pause’ is needed between second and third recently