...aaand moving to the front. This can't be my shock mount rubber. Somebody please tell me this is some factory caulk type stuff on top of the actual rubber...
Last edited by Burma-Shave on Sun Apr 02, 2017 9:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1990 964 C4, 1999 Boxster 2.5
And..'89 BMW E30 325i Touring. '83 Mercedes 280E. '84 Citroen 2CV. '16 BMW i3 REx. '03 BMW R1100S. '99 Yamaha R1. '79 BMW R100 scrambler.
I tried elephant racing monoballs in those top mounts - nice at first. It eventually they failed. Now got superpro ones - v good and piece of p155 to fit
The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
Thanks Mark, I have already searched up the superpro mounts! They look good. But this can't be the mount shirley, it looks fine from underneath.
I have taken off the top bolt and nothing is shifting, it all seems to be bonded to all this cracked stuff. The shock is meant to just drop down when the top bolt is off. DAMN YOU Wayne Dempsey.
Can someone explain what the Falkirk is going on?
Rubber looks fine underneath..
Last edited by Burma-Shave on Sun Apr 02, 2017 9:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1990 964 C4, 1999 Boxster 2.5
And..'89 BMW E30 325i Touring. '83 Mercedes 280E. '84 Citroen 2CV. '16 BMW i3 REx. '03 BMW R1100S. '99 Yamaha R1. '79 BMW R100 scrambler.
defianty wrote:It looks like someone's added some sort of 'rust protection'. I'd put the nut back on to protect the threads and show it a mallet or similar.
Excellent! I am on my 3rd large Highland Park, do you think that matters?
I can't see it being a PO that has done this - it is very smooth and perfect under the washer where it isn't cracked. Is there a chance this stuff was factory applied? It is all a bit strange..
1990 964 C4, 1999 Boxster 2.5
And..'89 BMW E30 325i Touring. '83 Mercedes 280E. '84 Citroen 2CV. '16 BMW i3 REx. '03 BMW R1100S. '99 Yamaha R1. '79 BMW R100 scrambler.
OK if you're just changing the shock without altering the suspension settings then you need to just get a drift (I used a socket set extension bar) on the threaded bit and push down - with the shock absorber I found they are hard to move at first but once moving they go down OK. They then want to come up again. So you need to be fairly quick and not drunk while you move the shock to one side.
If you want to get the top mount off as well, having the shock out of the way will make it easier You can then get at the top mount. Maybe a lever from underneath?
The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
Thanks guys. The strut capitulated to my authority last night - I see that it just pops out of the hole without disturbing the cracked caulk stuff - its is pretty easy, when you have done it once that is! I thought the whole bit would need unmantling.
Waiting for the DPD man to bring goodies now...
1990 964 C4, 1999 Boxster 2.5
And..'89 BMW E30 325i Touring. '83 Mercedes 280E. '84 Citroen 2CV. '16 BMW i3 REx. '03 BMW R1100S. '99 Yamaha R1. '79 BMW R100 scrambler.
If you're just doing the shock then you're good. If you're doing the rubber bushing as well then you need to mark the position of the bolts etc on the top before you remove them otherwise you'll be changing your suspension settings
The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah