My engine won't come out
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Re: My engine won't come out
can you not drop the trailing arms with the drive shafts still attached? or is that a major PITA on a 911?
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Re: My engine won't come out
Yes it is
Probably easier to undo the driveshafts at the wheel end - don't know how big a job this is on your model but most of the stuff is fairly easy to get at. The other end of the trailing arms is a nightmare to get at
Probably easier to undo the driveshafts at the wheel end - don't know how big a job this is on your model but most of the stuff is fairly easy to get at. The other end of the trailing arms is a nightmare to get at
The simple things you see are all complicated
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
I look pretty young but I'm just backdated yeah
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Re: My engine won't come out
Cut the heads off the cv bolts, pry the cv joint away from the gear box and cut the bolts using a 1mm disc in your grinder. The little stubs will come out easily afterwards. My 914 had been butchered by someone not knowing they were originally torx and using the wrong tool.
David
1973 914 zambezi green
1972 911T (lhd 71E engine)sadly sold
1973 914 zambezi green
1972 911T (lhd 71E engine)sadly sold
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Re: My engine won't come out
Thanks all
Busy for the moment, but planning to be back on it next Friday, and lots of things to try.
Peter
Busy for the moment, but planning to be back on it next Friday, and lots of things to try.
Peter
'79 Targa - restoration now mainly complete & being driven
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
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Re: My engine won't come out
+1 to going back to the CV joint bolts, ive never been defeated in what must be over 100 engine and box pulls.
The options to get them out, as you have allready tried, but perhaps try again :
A) Cold Freeze Release Spray, i use a lot of it, a few attempts and a bit of heat, perhaps alternating cold and hot (but let it cool down a little before hitting it again with the release spray, as it can ignite). Use cold/heat and i have almost always managed to get any fasteners apart without a problem, you will also need to :
B) Hammer in a larger spline (and breaker bar on an extention for torque, with the wheels off and the nuts back on, you can lock the axle (or use the handbrake)
C) Mole grips, better mole grips (with cold/heat)
D) as above post, cut the heads off, pry off and cut the stubs, but i have never had to do that.
For pulling the engine/box, use two people, don't do it on your own it is heavy, and worth say £10k-£20k depending on condition/matching numbers, etc so get a friend or two!
for the SC, dont forget the electrical connection for the speedo by the gear coupling, and take the coupling off the gear linkage (I think you have allready), put it into gear, so the rod coming out of the box is at its shortest, and try not to catch it in the hole in the body when you take it out.
If your doing it on the floor, take the rear bumper off, its easier.
You can use a 4 wheel house moving dolly under the engine/heat exchangers, with the jack placed just a bit more towards the front than the middle of the case
and good luck, satisfying when its out and back in.
The options to get them out, as you have allready tried, but perhaps try again :
A) Cold Freeze Release Spray, i use a lot of it, a few attempts and a bit of heat, perhaps alternating cold and hot (but let it cool down a little before hitting it again with the release spray, as it can ignite). Use cold/heat and i have almost always managed to get any fasteners apart without a problem, you will also need to :
B) Hammer in a larger spline (and breaker bar on an extention for torque, with the wheels off and the nuts back on, you can lock the axle (or use the handbrake)
C) Mole grips, better mole grips (with cold/heat)
D) as above post, cut the heads off, pry off and cut the stubs, but i have never had to do that.
For pulling the engine/box, use two people, don't do it on your own it is heavy, and worth say £10k-£20k depending on condition/matching numbers, etc so get a friend or two!
for the SC, dont forget the electrical connection for the speedo by the gear coupling, and take the coupling off the gear linkage (I think you have allready), put it into gear, so the rod coming out of the box is at its shortest, and try not to catch it in the hole in the body when you take it out.
If your doing it on the floor, take the rear bumper off, its easier.
You can use a 4 wheel house moving dolly under the engine/heat exchangers, with the jack placed just a bit more towards the front than the middle of the case
and good luck, satisfying when its out and back in.
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Re: My engine won't come out
Torx, what Torx? Not on any Porsche I know of. The 914 CV joint bolts generally use the tri-square (12-point) bolts.jackstowers wrote:My 914 had been butchered by someone not knowing they were originally torx and using the wrong tool.
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Re: My engine won't come out
Also know as "XZN" bolts.
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Re: My engine won't come out
Ok pedants!! Gimme a break! The 12 point star shaped bits that no ordinary tool box contains resulting in various other bits being used rendering the heads unuseable.
Changed all mine for Allen key bolts for ease of tool location etc
Changed all mine for Allen key bolts for ease of tool location etc
David
1973 914 zambezi green
1972 911T (lhd 71E engine)sadly sold
1973 914 zambezi green
1972 911T (lhd 71E engine)sadly sold
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Re: My engine won't come out
I have removed worn out hex/Allen key bolts by tapping in the relevant 'slightly larger' torx socket, if the torxsocket is of sufficient quality it will usually be fine, just make sure it is hit in far enough to make decent contact with the Allen bolt.
I found a good habit to get into with the Allen headed bolts is tap the Allen key socket in until the sound changes, then you know it is making full contact and not just in a couple of mm.
Just mindless ramblings of someone who has had their fair share of skinned knuckles!
It is definatley easier to separate the engine and box on the floor.
Hope this helps?
I found a good habit to get into with the Allen headed bolts is tap the Allen key socket in until the sound changes, then you know it is making full contact and not just in a couple of mm.
Just mindless ramblings of someone who has had their fair share of skinned knuckles!
It is definatley easier to separate the engine and box on the floor.
Hope this helps?
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1955 Allgaier Porsche AP16
2012 VW Tiguan
2011 VW T5 Kombi (Porsche Diesel Service Van)
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Re: My engine won't come out
The 12 point female bolt heads are known as 'spline' drive, I believe. used extensively on new VAG stuff.davep wrote:Torx, what Torx? Not on any Porsche I know of. The 914 CV joint bolts generally use the tri-square (12-point) bolts.jackstowers wrote:My 914 had been butchered by someone not knowing they were originally torx and using the wrong tool.
1979 Citroen Dyane
1955 Allgaier Porsche AP16
2012 VW Tiguan
2011 VW T5 Kombi (Porsche Diesel Service Van)
1955 Allgaier Porsche AP16
2012 VW Tiguan
2011 VW T5 Kombi (Porsche Diesel Service Van)
My engine won't come out
Most modern stuff uses the Torx headed bolts instead of the older spline socket head bolts. The Torx design can handle a higher torque load. However, they look similar at first glance.
Although I just remembered I did need to buy a new M14 XZN (spline) bit last year for the VAG strut pitch bolt so they do have both in current use.
Although I just remembered I did need to buy a new M14 XZN (spline) bit last year for the VAG strut pitch bolt so they do have both in current use.
Re: My engine won't come out
This - same for me. Mine appeared rounded but the head must be all the way in and absolutely level.Jonnysc wrote:I have removed worn out hex/Allen key bolts by tapping in the relevant 'slightly larger' torx socket, if the torxsocket is of sufficient quality it will usually be fine, just make sure it is hit in far enough to make decent contact with the Allen bolt.
I found a good habit to get into with the Allen headed bolts is tap the Allen key socket in until the sound changes, then you know it is making full contact and not just in a couple of mm.
Just mindless ramblings of someone who has had their fair share of skinned knuckles!
It is definatley easier to separate the engine and box on the floor.
Hope this helps?
Take a small heavy hammer and take time tapping in carefully until it's absolutely in. Clear out the crud also.
When you have hex head in, attach an extension to bring you out far enough for good leverage. Apply gentle level pressure.
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Re: My engine won't come out
Thanks again guys, I'm trying again hopefully Friday.
I have 12 point, torx and allen heads waiting & ready (& yes, I always 'hammer' them in as far as they will go). I will not be beaten - the only unknowns are how long it will take and how much blood I lose in the effort
I have 12 point, torx and allen heads waiting & ready (& yes, I always 'hammer' them in as far as they will go). I will not be beaten - the only unknowns are how long it will take and how much blood I lose in the effort
'79 Targa - restoration now mainly complete & being driven
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59756
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Re: My engine won't come out
What a struggle this must be!
I would never attempt to get the engine off the box on it's own and would carry on fighting the CV cap head bolts.
Clean them out and hammer the right sized allen key into the socket to try to restore the damage sufficiently to shift the bolt.
Use a quality item such as Snap-On.
The hammering can shock the fastener a little to free some corrosion, bit of a bonus.
Once deeply in, an electric rattle-gun might be worth trying to undo the things.
all brutal but I think finesse has long gone out of your garage on this one.
Another thought is to drill and try a stud extractor, again only a quality item should be used.
I would never attempt to get the engine off the box on it's own and would carry on fighting the CV cap head bolts.
Clean them out and hammer the right sized allen key into the socket to try to restore the damage sufficiently to shift the bolt.
Use a quality item such as Snap-On.
The hammering can shock the fastener a little to free some corrosion, bit of a bonus.
Once deeply in, an electric rattle-gun might be worth trying to undo the things.
all brutal but I think finesse has long gone out of your garage on this one.
Another thought is to drill and try a stud extractor, again only a quality item should be used.
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