DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

As described in my restoration thread I am struggling to work out the best way of putting the fuel lines back on my restoration.

My car is a 1974 2.7 CIS which appear to have some of the parts from the -74 PET drawings and some from the 75- drawings.
It may be that the car has been messed around with at some point but I suspect it was built in a period where a lot of the methodology at Porsche was changing daily.

I propose to write this post and re-edit it as I find out some of the answers to my questions and as I get more info - but for the moment here goes. Please jump in with suggestions, all advice is much appreciated as always.

Although I do wish to retain some originality, I am happy to make changes where there is a reliability or safety improvement to be made.


So lets start at the beginning and discuss the tank to pump.

Fuel tank - my original fuel tank had push fittings as shown here

whereas my replacement Dansk tank has one push fitting and one threaded connector - so this is a difference I will need to accomodate.

PET shows

So I am pretty certain my original tank was option 2 for the tank.

The first fuel lines are shown as items 31 (280mm of 999 181 168 50 named 'hose' ) for the intake,
and 32 (999 181 152 50 named 'hose C 7,5 X 13,5 ) for the start of the return line.

Then the fuel intake and returns lines (items 38 and 40) are shown as 911 356 067 01 and 911 356 062 03 respectively.
Both these parts are shown as NLA as far as I can tell so I probably need to take a later solution.

My intake and return lines looks as follows, with the return still having the tank connection pipe fitted:


Now I have been told that these don't sound like the original lines, however I tend to disagree and think they are original.

I don't want to refit this 40+ year old lines so I am looking for options.
I think that some of the later lines have fittings built into them at both ends to prevent having to rely on jubilee clip style fittings.

Any thoughts ?

So here is the fuel pump as fitted above the LS rear wheel arch.

And here is the -1974 PET drawing.

So it looks like the correct -1974 pump, fitted to the correct -1974 right angled bracket. The pump has the check valve incorporated in the banjo union which seems correct.
The intake has passed through three separate pipes and four jubilee clip joins to reach the pump!

I have sourced a NOS pump which I intend to use with the check valve.

Questions here are:

Should I consider moving the pump to the front of the car ( less original but probably a better solution )?
If I leave the pump here what are the better pipe routing options?

Another confusion is that the fuel pump feed and the return line then pass through to the engine bay from the wheel arch area through two rigid steel pipes ( that's four more jubilee clips and four more joins ), before the fuel pump feed passes to the accumulator, and the engine return connects to the return line.
This is in the hazy area of the PET diagram where the pipes 13 and 15 go dotted. The PET guide possibly hints that the pipes go through but I definitely have two steel rigid pipes and extra jubilee clips!
Now for the life of me I cannot seem to find this rigid steel lines in the PET guide - where are they? - help!

Here is the accumulator and filter in situ, showing the through bulkhead connections in the bottom right.


As you can see the fuel filter bracket and arrangement is as per the 75- PET guide.

I clearly have fuel line 15, 930 356 076 01 and new replacements are available.
The fuel line identified as 11, 911 356 066 33 is a different setup to my car, however it appears to be a NLA part again.

The second port of my accumulator has a right angled fitting to barb connector - not sure what the original Porsche number would be for this yet.

Once I get towards the engine I think the fuel lines become a bit clearer.

To be continued..

If anyone has any suggestions for any of the parts shown please fell free to comment.
I'm guessing I need to establish what I am doing with the tunnel lines and work outwards from there.

So what do people use for the tunnel lines now?


I'll stop here for the moment, but things get a bit stranger as from here on my car behaves more like a 75- PET car before the CIS system is back to a -74 setup. For example the accumulator bracket fitted to my car is definitely the one shown in the 75- PET drawing!

Hello Andrew,

The plastic fuel lines shown are definitely original but nla from Porsche, I am also looking at what alternatives there are.

For the threaded tank connection I think you need the banjo fitting no26 which I believe Canford Classics reproduce.

At the rear on my Carrera MFI one rigid line passes though a tube in the rear chassis member, the other through a hole in the rubber engine surround seal which isthen attached to the inner chassis rail by a tag.

The later CIS systems had a fuel pump in the front so could be the way to go.

Andrew, if you want fuel lines made as original, or very close thereto, you can probably get them done in the UK but I'd also want to tell you about Len Cummings...goes by BoxsterGT on Pelican....Len makes really nice replacement lines and hoses, using correct polyamid for the tunnel hoses and E85 rated rubber...all from Germany, including the zinc plated fittings. He's a lovely bloke who ran a respected Porsche shop near Boston for years, so he knows his stuff...does this rather like a hobby, and is easy to deal with. len.cummings@verizon.net. I think a sorted CIS is better than carbs, but I also love the SPICA mechanical injection system on my Alfa, so I'm biased. Best of luck, John.

Guy wrote:Hello Andrew,

The plastic fuel lines shown are definitely original but nla from Porsche, I am also looking at what alternatives there are.

For the threaded tank connection I think you need the banjo fitting no26 which I believe Canford Classics reproduce.

At the rear on my Carrera MFI one rigid line passes though a tube in the rear chassis member, the other through a hole in the rubber engine surround seal which isthen attached to the inner chassis rail by a tag.

The later CIS systems had a fuel pump in the front so could be the way to go.

Thanks for the response Guy, I have spoken to Canford but they don't seem to have an off-the shelf solution.
As for the banjo, I think my tank needs a female union not a banjo so will see what I can find.
I have ordered some 'random' parts from RosePassion to see what I can make. They stock a return line so I will see if this is of any use to me.

As for the rigid lines I did finally find another photo of the lines and indeed one passes through the rear chassis member and one through the engine seal ( so sounds the same as yours ). One of the Rosepassion lines that I have ordered includes the rigid line and pipework for the accumulator.

Expect more photos when my selection of lines arrives.

jjeffries wrote:Andrew, if you want fuel lines made as original, or very close thereto, you can probably get them done in the UK but I'd also want to tell you about Len Cummings...goes by BoxsterGT on Pelican....Len makes really nice replacement lines and hoses, using correct polyamid for the tunnel hoses and E85 rated rubber...all from Germany, including the zinc plated fittings. He's a lovely bloke who ran a respected Porsche shop near Boston for years, so he knows his stuff...does this rather like a hobby, and is easy to deal with. len.cummings@verizon.net. I think a sorted CIS is better than carbs, but I also love the SPICA mechanical injection system on my Alfa, so I'm biased. Best of luck, John.

Hello John, thanks for the response.
I had independently seen Lens posts on the Pelican forum and his lines do look good. I was hoping to source from the EU as by the time items are shipped and taxed they start to get expensive. Depending upon what I can source I may still have to contact Len.

Once again thanks for the support.

So a selection of fuel lines have arrived, so I will post pictures as it may help someone in the future.

Here is the first part of the line that should run from the fuel pump feed into engine compartment.

This should reduce the joint count by one and replace my original rigid line - which must be a good thing.

Here is the second half that then connects to the fuel accumulator.

Again this is one less joint in the line than the original car.

I also ordered a fuel feed line, which seemed to be identified as a replacement for the tunnel feed line.

However as it's half the length of my original line I can't see how I can use it in the tunnel ( unless I buy a second and connect them ) - I'm putting this one down to a less than successful buy.

I think I may have to try someone like Pirtek to see if I can get some bespoke tunnel lines made, and cut up the above line to use for a couple of the short joining links.

My next step is to find a solution for the rigid polyamide line that runs from the fuel filter to the fuel distributor as shown here.


Anyone know of a good solution for this line ( for the life of me I can't see it on the PET diagram )?

OK so the penny has dropped regarding this final line assembly. It's not shown on PET as a separate line as the fuel distributor, fuel line and adapter are a single assembly.

So my options are try to find some replacement nylon line and refit ( probably requires some specialist tooling ), or fit something else.

Anyone got any suggestions - please?

AndrewSlater wrote:My next step is to find a solution for the rigid polyamide line that runs from the fuel filter to the fuel distributor as shown here.Anyone know of a good solution for this line ( for the life of me I can't see it on the PET diagram )?

You can buy the polyamide plastic lines for k-jet fuel lines from Adam at unobtanium-inc.com There are 2 dimensions you need, 1 smaller line for like fuel injectors and oner larger for the main feeding lines. I have enough for you if you only need the one in your picture, and you press them on with a very simple tool made from 2 pices of wood.






Len Cummings supplied me with the complete replacement for the tunnel lines, he made them from polyamide plastic lines complete with bends and brass sleeves fitted inside in the ends so it's possible to pull the rubber lines tight with Norma clamps over the plastic line. The original tunnel lines were clear.

Bengt