1972 911 T LHD Restoration (Pics Fixed!)

[8bit-ash]

Thanks for the pics, Thats the whitest and cleanest i've ever seen original underbody coating in all the pics ive been searching. It looks like the yellow is coming through the white/grey in your pics which i'm guessing isn't the case.

[8bit-ash]

The finish also looks excellent, What gun was used?

[lamakdaddy]

The signal yellow is the original overspray and was on top. The car had been dry ice blasted under the arches and so this is clean. The finish is a definitely very whitesh.

A shutz gun was used.

[lamakdaddy]

Here is a picture of a car that is said to be original. It seems to be 'dressed' but the colour is helpful

[8bit-ash]

Great pic of the overspray. I've got some remaining underseal on mine which didn't come off when blasted but is now nice and clean. I had thought of colour matching that with a paint then using Upol Raptor which is Tintable. Its 2k and seems like an excellent product but not sure how easy it will be to replicate the thickness of the original.

[lamakdaddy]

The guys used UPOL Gravitex Plus..the other one is a bed liner for pick up trucks I think...

[lamakdaddy]

Could anyone advise on how the rear quarter meets the B post? I can see the clear join but at what point does the joint get blended into the panel (if at all?)

Thanks

Could anyone advise on the above? Thanks

[lamakdaddy]

At some stage the car had had some minor body work to the front pan. Looking through the invoices this had happened in 1984 at the cost of $1200 (!). It appears that the owner wanted to adpat the car to a single battery- perhaps after a leak of acid. Here are the (rather poor) results of the work



Clearly pretty horrible with lots of visible joints etc. It was also a panel from a 1974 onward car.

So I decided to make a couple of new pre 1974 repair panels, using some baked bean cans and my kitchen cooker..





Just kidding. I purchases these from Restoration Design in Canada. I originally ordered panels from elsewhere but they arrived and were the wrong ones, having been mislabled (again for a post 1974 car). These were made by Dansk and the difference in metal gauge and solidity is quite telling between Dansk and RD. The later seem to be almost hand formed but very solid, the former are far more machine made and a little thinner.

Fitting up began





And the end results do speak for themselves.

[lamakdaddy]

So she is getting very close to painting. We have chosen to paint in a single stage Glasurit 22 which is a slovent finish that apparently looks more in keeping with the type of the paint used in the olden days (as my 10 year old daughter refers to the 70s).

The garage have correctly fitted all the seals and latches to the car to ensure proper alignment

[Gary71]

Looks great, all coming together now!


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[lamakdaddy]

Thanks Gary.

I think I lucked out with the solid shell on this car. The car was a slight premium from a price perspective but the premium has more than paid off when I see the challenge of restoring a shell. In fact, where I am based, it would be impossible to undertake a shell restoration to a quality that I would be happy with.

Once thing I forgot to mention are the horn grilles. I went with the Auto Foreign ones. They are absolutely superb and show all that is wrong with far eastern replica parts.

[Bootsy]

Looking really good

[210bhp]

For some reason I've just caught up with this thread.

My targa is now just in paint, signal yellow too, and I went with Glasurit single stage as well.
Eric's parts are the best and look great on your car.

The metal work looks good and the shell looks great. Your eyes will pop when you see the colour freshly done.
Keep the updates coming.

Regards
Mike

[Bootsy]

My targa is now just in paint, signal yellow too, and I went with Glasurit single stage as well.

Must have missed the build thread?

[Gary71]

He's just planning to tease it over the next nine months...


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