The Manhattan Project

[Berny]

Hi the thumb wheel has a small slotted screw in the side turn the wheel untill you can see it and losen with a small flat blade screwdriver, you can then pull it off and undo the retaining nut and push the cable up, it then comes out with the spedo which is just pushed into the dash.

[AndrewSlater]

Hi Berny,

I must admit I was expecting to find a grub screw similar to the turned metal thumb wheel arrangement as per my 912.
However this is a plastic thumbwheel and I couldn't see any screw in it. However I will check again in case I missed it.

Thanks
Andrew

[mdmax72]

Someone's having fun. Nice to see your lad getting involved to.

[AndrewSlater]

Good news I finally got the thumbwheel off - it was just a friction fit - no grub screw.

The steering wheel was removed to gain access to the cowl to remove the stalks.

So the next question is how do I remove the ignition switch?
The fixings that are holding the plate in look to me to be tamper proof.

I want to remove the ignition switch without activating the steering lock, as I still intend rolling the car around.

Heres a photo showing the ignition switch still in situ.





My next job is to remove the wiring loom.
Again is there a preferred method for a '74 car?

As always any advice always appreciated.

[AndrewSlater]

So the update is that I managed to remove the front wiring loom from the car over the weekend.
Removing it is relatively easy, but I know refitting will be the challenge in the future.

The ignition switch is still in situ awaiting a plan of attack.

So I am now ready to remove all the wiring and other cables from the tunnel.

Can anyone point me to what the recommended sequence is for removing all the cables and linkages and which ones do I need to disassemble in the process?
I'm paranoid that I am going to forget and leave something in the tunnel as its not that easy to inspect.

Is everything best removed from the rear of the tunnel?

Again any advice much appreciated.
Andrew

[911hillclimber]

The only real thing I remember from when I did mine in '89 was that every hard pipe and control seemed to be best removed and re-fitted from the engine end.
Everything is of a 'linear' design so the brake pipe runs down there and its very long etc.
The other controls are easy too.

Today you have the advantage of a digital camera, simply take a lot of pics as a modern note pad, pics of everything stage by stage so you replace everything down the right tube (assuming nobody has messed about with the car before.
The 911 is a very simple design and the route for everything is very simple and direct if bloody awkward at time to get at....
Remember you have the very very best 'works manual' right here at your finger tips, the DDK Team!
If anything, it is easy to get things crossed-over in that tunnel and the cables etc can then rub against each other causing sticky throttle actions for example, the hand throttle is a bugger to get linked up purely because access is so tight with the handbrake in the way.

Just takes time.

Not sure if this helps, but it is hard to get it very wrong.

[tea boy]

The ignition switch is still in situ awaiting a plan of attack.

The ignition switch/steering lock is secured by shear bolts.

As the name suggests, the heads shear off once they are tightened up.

You may be able to chase the larger ones round with a centre punch if you work carefully.

I think I drilled the tops off of the smaller ones.

Obviously you will need new fixings when you come to replace it.

[911hillclimber]

I just drilled the security bolts until the lock assy came free. I removed the steering lock as advised it was a good idea for motorsport use.
Screwed it all back together using cap head bolts as the security issue was not a problem, but new bolts are available as it is a common engineering fastener.

[radioboy1]

Same, drilled them out (think the bentley book has instructions)

[AndrewSlater]

OK another update.

I managed to unscrew the large security nuts using a pair of mo-grips. The two smaller rivets I drilled out. So ignition switch is now out.

I have been stripping the tunnel of pipes and cables etc.
All of the brake pipes were pretty rusty at all the unions so ended up fracturing the pipes as the nuts were rusted to the pipes.
This made removing the tunnel brake line easy as it allowed me to hacksaw it in two before withdrawing it.

Which begs the question, is it best to fabricate you own brake pipes for refitting or buy replacements?

Hardest part so far was the handbrake cables, as the small screws holding the rear discs to the hubs were also rusted solid and had to drill them out.
So just one handbrake cable to go and the tunnel is empty.

Second hardest was getting the wiring loom through the tunnel and around the back torsion bar tube.
One day getting it back through the ducting in the tunnel might be a fun challenge.

Final question - what does everyone recommend in order to replace the fuel lines through the tunnel?

[911hillclimber]

Brakes:
If you don't have the flaring tool to hand etc just buy a tailored kit, but you will have to either straighten some and certainly bend some to fit up. They will be copper pipes so easy to manipulate to shape.

iirc LHD are different to RHD.

[AndrewSlater]

Stripping the body shell continues.

Managed to get the wings off this weekend, so its just a few minor ( and stubborn ) things to remove before the suspension can finally be removed.

Found a rust hole in the nearside inner wing just in line with the suspension strut but other than that nothing I wasn't expecting.

Both wings are in pretty poor condition so best to replace. I have already acquired a nearside wing but now looking for a offside one.



So anyone hazard a guess as to what I might have missed

[Bruce M]

Did you loosen the wheel nuts before disabling all brakes?

[AndrewSlater]

Thanks Bruce - yes I have.

I'm wondering if I should loosen off the rear ( and possibly front ) wheel bearing castle nuts whilst it is sat on the wheels.

I just have a few odds and sods to remove including the paint code plate ( its not keen on leaving the car ) and the three roof panel anti resonance strips ( I don't know what glue was used but these are tough ). - and then the engine and trunk lids to strip.

I would drop the suspension off in my workshop but I don't have an off-road dolly to get my car back up the slope of my muddy rear garden.
So the plan is to push it back up the garden and drop the suspension on the front driveway.

[911hillclimber]

Front bearings are not fixed with a high torque nut, just a simple split collar pinched tight by a small Allen screw.
Rear is a bloody tight big nut!
Best to free them off at the back while you can hold everything.
I have in the past loosened these rear nuts with just the handbrake and in 1st gear, but they had been off before...