DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Check out this post to get a bit a background to the fact that I need to replace a broken cam chain tensioner.
http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewto ... highlight=

Then have a vote and I'm interested in other peoples experiences.

This subject came up at the PCGB tech forum last year.

JZ Machtech, Francis Tuthill and the PCGB tech rep all agreed that standard was the way to go. Sorry but I can't quite recall the exact reason.

A few other DDK members were there and may remember.

As I recall they were saying that the problems with failing tensioners didn't really occur that often until the 3.0 SC engine and that they don't as a matter of course upgrade to hydraulic tensioners.

When I was talking to Colin Belton (9M) the other day re the engine I bought off him, his view was to leave the standard tensioners on the engine until any sort of top end build and then go with the hydraulic tensioners. So I guess it really is up to you!

sorry, not really sure this helps

Ian

Derek's right, without exception the experts all said fit a standard type tensioner, I think mainly because they felt that a) The standard ones actually are quite reliable anyway, and even if they fail, you will only suffer engine damage if your timing chains are very, very stretched, most failures just result in a lot of noise apparently. b) The later hydraulic tensioners are now beginning to fail anyway: suggesting the actual design is not inherently much more reliable than standards.

My personal feeling is that the hydraulic tensioners add a lot more componants to the sytem, all with a (admittedly small) statistical chance of failure at some point, and feel simple is best. The later (930) type of tensioner was meant to be an improved tensioner with greater robustness: so that's where my money is. Personally I quite like the idea of your tensioner clamps, just so long as they are put on with enough slack to allow the engine to expand when hot.

Bottom line is that whatever you fit will probably be fine! I'm sure that most of the problems that come about are simply due to old age, and any new tensioner, of any type will be better than running an 'unknown quantity' 'original' one.

Just looked in Dempsey's book: he reckons the gap for the clamp is appx. 1/8th inch between bottom of clamp and top of tensioner body (i.e. so the piston can be pushed down by 1/8th).

I went for the standard style with the added collar, simple, cheaper and they work.

well I've got hydraulics, and have no complaints

I went hydraulic after advice from peter morgan , but my ( not very old ) standard tensioners were retained , in case someone wishes to go back to standard one day. Given my time over , I'd spend the money on petrol instead : )

John I have decided to go with standard tensioners and use the collar (which did work when my tensioner failed). So are you interested in selling them?

I want to keep them with the car , as I've a policy of retaining all parts to return the car to completely standard if desired. well , except the original heat exchangers ... you'd have to be mad : )

So my new standard chain tensioner has arrived and I was wondering a couple of things. First there is a pin holding the plunger in place, I know that this has to be removed but how? It is held under the circlip that hold the plunger assembly in place but my initial attempts to slide this around has failed. What is the best way of getting this out?

There is also a spacer with the tensioner and I am sure it will be obvious which side it fits on (before or after the tensioner) but can someone confirm?

And finally do I have to fill it with oil or prime it in some way?

I know these may appear stupid questions but I want to take no risks when I fit this.

Thanks

Dont pull out the pin untill the tensioner is in place. work out where the spacer goes (I cant remember), fit the tensioner then hook the retaining pin out with a small screwdriver and pliers.

Craig

oh yeah, and its a sealed unit already oil filled. I gave mine a good dousing with oil once it was fitted.

craig

Finally back on the road and thanks to you all for you advice. Had a slight problem in that the inner circlip came free when I was pulling the pin and a 1 hour job turned out to be a 3 hours! By the way the spacer goes on before the tensioner.