66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

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MT
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Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by MT »

Well the striker plate repair kits have found their way here from California, so time to 'shut that door'.
Being the early type they pry apart into two halves very easily with a couple of small screwdrivers. The spring for the upper plastic bit is not that fierce so my precautions were over the top for the 'boooinnng' into the far recess of the garage. If I had known it was this easy I would/should have dismantled them prior to sending the outer halves only to Mr.Plater. Note any future swb restorers! Once apart the two parts look like this.

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After a bit of a clean up and grease on to reassembly. The inserts and spring fit in quite obviously (for once) and with the help of an assistant went in so quickly I forgot to photograph the process. Anyway once assembled and fitted to the B post, I could try the door shut properly for the first time.

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Well pleased. Shuts with a very solid and Germanic 'Klunkk' to boot.

Over to the other side

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Better if anything.
Last edited by MT on Tue May 08, 2012 8:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.
'Creativity is the product of time wasted' Albert Einstein

1972 RHD 2.4E (ex Bob Watson racer - now in original Tangerine)
1966 LHD swb (Doctors car - now with Mrs. Ferrari in Madrid)
1966 TR4A (now sold and replaced by 1990 944 turbo)
1966 S2a Landrover
MT
DDK rules my life!
Posts: 1247
Joined: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:42 pm
Location: Gatwick

Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by MT »

And so to the front wings and bonnet.

After some thought and experimentation I found the only way to assemble the LH wing (with the petrol filler) was as follows:
1. Fit the metal ferrule for the filler drain into the rubber shroud for the petrol filler tube, and then fit this into the inner wing. I had to make a replacement ferrule from a piece of metal pipe with the end flared with a bit of hammer work (the round end of a ball-pien hammer is perfect for this I found). Fit the drain tube and fasten to the inner wing. Then do everything you can to open up the central hole in the rubber shroud, with lots of silicone lubricant, and then struggle for a while to get the filler tube though the hole. Don't forget the anti-static earth wire from the filler nozzle to the filler cap on the wing.

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2. Fit dum-dum sealer to the scuttle joint and to the corresponding part of the wing. Fit the joint gasket to one or the other.

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3. Run a strip of sealing strip along the join with the inner wing - I did remove the paper covering before fitting!! This is superb stuff and makes a really good joint. About £12 a roll, that will do several cars.

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4. Fit spire clips to the wing edge. Get wife to hold wing while you feed the wires through the headlamp bowl from the 'J' shaped support tube. DO NOT FORGET to fit the wing support bracket, 2 pipe clips and a piece of rubber hose to the 'J' pipe BEFORE feeding the wires into the bowl .... OR you'll have to take the whole damned thing off again to fit them! :oops: :oops: Edge gently into place

5. Fit a couple of the speed bolts on the inner wing top, a couple into the wing support bracket, and the really tricky one accessed from inside the A post door opening.

6. Faff about tightening here, loosening there, nudging, pulling, cursing (wife to be dismissed from duty before this step), for about an hour until you believe you have it as best as you can. Fit rest of bolts and tighten. Fit the thick wire spring loop thingy that holds the rubber shroud firmly in the wing, and the foam grommet that fits around the filler tube in the second inner wing. Wish fervently you hadn't bothered to refit the sodding aerial because it tries everything it can to get in the way and get jammed in the door. And it's too small for the existing hole in the wing, and it looks crap, ....

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I'm still not REALLY happy about the gap from door to wing, mainly because the wing sits proud of the door surface at the point of most curvature, but as this is not the original wing it may be something I have to live with. I did as much fettling as I could before it was painted and I knew it wasn't perfect, but that part of the wing is really rigid with the wing support rib just behind it. If anyone has any thoughts or experience let me know. Looks ok from a few feet away, but when you rub your hand across it you can feel it quite easily. Also the pointy bit near the A post goes up at the end so the gap widens as it gets to the door jamb. Again the wing is very rigid so I may just have to live with it.

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Other wing is much easier, and fitted much better, but still had the same (less pronounced) misalignment of the door surface to the wing at the point of most curvature. On with the bonnet, fit bonnet lights, catch etc.

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Fit refurbished Bosch horns

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And another of my favourite 'before and after' sets. So good for morale, these are:

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And from the side

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And finally, from the rear

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Last edited by MT on Tue May 08, 2012 9:03 pm, edited 4 times in total.
'Creativity is the product of time wasted' Albert Einstein

1972 RHD 2.4E (ex Bob Watson racer - now in original Tangerine)
1966 LHD swb (Doctors car - now with Mrs. Ferrari in Madrid)
1966 TR4A (now sold and replaced by 1990 944 turbo)
1966 S2a Landrover
MT
DDK rules my life!
Posts: 1247
Joined: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:42 pm
Location: Gatwick

Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by MT »

.... and there's more .... as that dopey comedian in the wellies used to say.

Minor rant warning. Those who only like positive comments move on by this one.

Ordered some new screws and captive nuts to fit the front and rear lenses from a well known UK supplier (who have served me well up to now to be fair). You will probably know the original screws are of a rather novel design, with a small 'lead-in' tip and a 'bolt' type layout with an unthreaded portion. So I thought £1.25 each plus VAT was perhaps not too Porschtastic in its pricing. Also the captive nuts are also a bit novel, so £2.25 each plus VAT again perhaps isn't too bad.

But then they arrived. Fair enough the captives are a dead ringer for the original on the right ....... but the screws...... :x :x :x :x :x I have some like that in the drawer, and a pack of 10 stainless is £1.50 including VAT at my local hardware shop. Not even the same length. Taking the urine, they are!!! In the scheme of a 911 restoration I know it's insignificant, but I'm a tight-wad Northerner, and these things cut deep....

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Rant over, back to work. Lights in tomorrow hopefully. Just need my bl**dy engine.....
'Creativity is the product of time wasted' Albert Einstein

1972 RHD 2.4E (ex Bob Watson racer - now in original Tangerine)
1966 LHD swb (Doctors car - now with Mrs. Ferrari in Madrid)
1966 TR4A (now sold and replaced by 1990 944 turbo)
1966 S2a Landrover
stretch
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Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by stretch »

Very nice Mick. 8)

Nearly there.
70T barn find...... to ST.
1998 C2 996 Kettle
MT
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Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by MT »

Lights in, door cards/handles/trim fitted

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Had a bit of a problem with the rear quarter bumper seals I got from Porsche OPC - it looks like I've got ones for a LWB, as they are thinner and narrower than the old ones, so leave an unsightly recess below the lights

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Will be talking to Roger Bray tomorrow as I see they list two different seals, one for 65-69.

Couldn't resist trying a bit of bling, although it came off again as the car is going back to be polished once I've finished putting greasy finger marks and adhesive all over it

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Still waiting on the engine ........ :( :(
'Creativity is the product of time wasted' Albert Einstein

1972 RHD 2.4E (ex Bob Watson racer - now in original Tangerine)
1966 LHD swb (Doctors car - now with Mrs. Ferrari in Madrid)
1966 TR4A (now sold and replaced by 1990 944 turbo)
1966 S2a Landrover
MT
DDK rules my life!
Posts: 1247
Joined: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:42 pm
Location: Gatwick

Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by MT »

Starting to run out of things to do ... did I say I was waiting on the engine ....... :(

Anyway decided it was time to gird the loins (never was sure what that meant, but it seems appropriate) and commission the electrics. Fire extinguisher to the fore. After much checking and double checking that the loose ends in the engine bay could do no damage, and after some continuity checking (although having so many relays in the system really confuses things I found), I bottled out again and decided on another belt to go with my braces - so I rigged up this....

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The old pillow is merely to keep it all from any possible earthing points, but basically its just an inline fuse and a switch between the +ve battery terminal and the +ve main supply to the car - the switch so I can control things quickly if needed, and the fuse to guard against a major stray short to earth, or other major power drain and to keep my heart rate down. Proved a good idea as you'll see.

Took all the fuses out and rigged the above up. Installed fuse 6 (License plate and trunk light) - they worked fine. Worked on through the rest of the white (10A?) fuses in this order 2,7,8,1,9,10,11,12 with everything working, although you need both low and high beam on both sides before some of the other functions (warning lights, fog lights off on full beam) relating to the lights work properly. So we came to fuse 4 - the blue (30A?) one - that feeds the wipers/washers. Switched on the wipers, no action, distinct smell of electric short ..... and the 10A fuse in my safety device had gone. I recalled that although I had externally refurbished the wiper mechanism and motor I had never been able to find out which of the 4 terminals and earth to connect to the battery to test it, so I had left it 'for a bit later on' ...... and of course had forgotten about it and never done it.

Didn't bother with fuse 3 (Webasto heater) - not enough balls for that one yet, and I don't plan to commission it anytime soon

So out with the wiper mechanism - a bit of a faff with everything in place, but you can get it out with only removing the rain drain thingy. Getting out the two 8mm bolts in the canvas strap is fun, esp if you're 6' 2". Dismantled it, reattached the motor to the wiring loom without the mechanism, works fine, all three speeds. Mechanism was jammed up on one side (not surprising really after being sat for 35 years, how daft not to check it :oops: :oops: ). Soaked in diesel for the afternoon, freed up, reassembled, reinstalled and now works fine.

I tried to copy JohnM's nice pic of the dash lit up, but it turned out crap - clearly I was still shaking from the nerves. You'll have to trust me that they're all on and look nice. I got some (expensive) LED's in 'classic white' off a bloke on Pelican (ETarga) and they look nice both as instrument lights and especially using the appropriate colours as as warning lights - really bright and clear. Although they are a fixed polarity, so for a couple of the warning lights I had to swap the wires over to get them to work.

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I had found that the spring that holds the two small prongs towards one another on the indicator switch inside the steering cowl so that the arm 'self cancels' when the shell is centred had disappeared. I got a replacement from Roger Bray and fitted it - fiddly but possible by just removing the horn ring and without dismantling anything else. So on with the steering wheel and horn push - only to find the logo was upside down when the wheel had the self-cancelling mechanism on the right side - the small round horn actuator dictates which way up the 'bat-wing' goes . Major sense of humour failure as I knew getting that thin chrome ring off and on again without losing the tabs was v. unlikely. Anyway if you look on the rear of the wheel there are two screws (one is already out in the photo) and two 180 deg opposing position for the ring, so swap 'em over and all is peace again.

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Got the right rear quarter bumper seals and trim so they were fitted as well - good for strengthening the fingers getting the trim in!

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What's missing in this picture ....

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'Creativity is the product of time wasted' Albert Einstein

1972 RHD 2.4E (ex Bob Watson racer - now in original Tangerine)
1966 LHD swb (Doctors car - now with Mrs. Ferrari in Madrid)
1966 TR4A (now sold and replaced by 1990 944 turbo)
1966 S2a Landrover
Lightweight_911
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Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by Lightweight_911 »

MT wrote: What's missing in this picture ....

Overriders ?

No. plate lights ?

:lol:

Looking good Mick !
Andy

“Adding power makes you faster on the straights;
- subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”
DEEMAN
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Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by DEEMAN »

All this is absolute magic. I have spent hours digesting all the info and cannot wait for the next post. It will be my bible for my '65 RHD project about to start.
I cannot, and I am sure I speak for many others, say what a wonderful job you have done to keep us informed of all the details - and with such superb photographic evidence.
If anyone deserved a Porsche Gold Medal.......... its you.
Ian
MT
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Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by MT »

Wow, Ian, not sure what to say ....... so I'll stick with 'Thank you'

Mick
'Creativity is the product of time wasted' Albert Einstein

1972 RHD 2.4E (ex Bob Watson racer - now in original Tangerine)
1966 LHD swb (Doctors car - now with Mrs. Ferrari in Madrid)
1966 TR4A (now sold and replaced by 1990 944 turbo)
1966 S2a Landrover
MT
DDK rules my life!
Posts: 1247
Joined: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:42 pm
Location: Gatwick

Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by MT »

Like Steve Ovett cramping up on that final bend while that b*gger Coe storms by, my Porsche Gold Medal prospects have suffered a setback this week (sorry Ian). See this thread:

http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewto ... =2&t=39092

Now awaiting the very generous arrival of a used but known good master cylinder from Graham to see WTF is going on within my braking system. Will report back the outcome on that thread. If there's a prolonged silence after its arrival then please send an ambulance .......

Anyway following the JohnM restoration philosophy I have now wiped the five times draining and refitting the m/c from my mind (almost), and wiped the sodding fluid up off all the places it went (none on the paintwork thankfully), and moved on to something else.

After a long journey from the States my horn grills from Eric Linden have arrived, and they are superb as you can see. I got his seals as well - 2 sets as you can see.

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They fitted quickly, easily and beautifully

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Then the replacement rear seat back carpets came from Lakewell in Belgium. The first ones didn't fit correctly

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Lakewell quickly agreed to replace. I sent a template and the picture above and they very slowly sent me replacements! Anyway the new ones fitted perfectly and now the seat backs are in.

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The original Durrant thin edge wing mirror glass was smashed when I got the car

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So I straightened the rim and got my local glazier to cut a replacement mirror to the exact size of the 'hole' and then he glued it in place with mirror adhesive.

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And on she goes

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The original wiper arms were in reasonable condition apart from the coating (cadmium plated I'm told), so I got a can of Eastwood's Silver Cad and repainted them. I'm promised a pair of NOS blades to complete the job ..... :wink:

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And to cheer me up a bit more I put the NOS orange bar badge I'd acquired some time ago on the bonnet to see what it looked like. I'd have preferred a 'good used' one, but the option of a NOS one at a reasonable rate came along from a local Surrey Porsche restorer/specialist from whom I had bought some stuff from on e-bay.

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No sign of the engine though :( :(
The CLM badge on the back is looking a bit optimistic .....

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'Creativity is the product of time wasted' Albert Einstein

1972 RHD 2.4E (ex Bob Watson racer - now in original Tangerine)
1966 LHD swb (Doctors car - now with Mrs. Ferrari in Madrid)
1966 TR4A (now sold and replaced by 1990 944 turbo)
1966 S2a Landrover
MT
DDK rules my life!
Posts: 1247
Joined: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:42 pm
Location: Gatwick

Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by MT »

Oh and I fitted the 'Driving Board' in the engine bay. I plan two configurations as I think I've discussed before. The 'Driving' one will be cdi with the appropriate coil (0 221 121 001) and Pertronix Ignitor in the distributor, and a second 'Original' set up with the original coil (0 221 102 026), ballast resistor, points, condenser, relay, regulator etc etc.

Driving:

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Original

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In both cases I'll be using a modern, slightly modified 'Bendix' fuel pump. I have the original, and will try to see if it can be coaxed back into life at some point, but they are so valuable it seems in decent condition that I'm loath to mess with it too much. Seems the concours folk strip the innards out and use them as just a flow-through with the real pump hidden from view, mainly because the new 'look alike' Facet pumps have different, smaller, straight or banjo connections.

Mick
'Creativity is the product of time wasted' Albert Einstein

1972 RHD 2.4E (ex Bob Watson racer - now in original Tangerine)
1966 LHD swb (Doctors car - now with Mrs. Ferrari in Madrid)
1966 TR4A (now sold and replaced by 1990 944 turbo)
1966 S2a Landrover
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Darren65
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Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by Darren65 »

MT wrote:And to cheer me up a bit more I put the NOS orange bar badge I'd acquired some time ago on the bonnet to see what it looked like. I'd have preferred a 'good used' one, but the option of a NOS one at a reasonable rate came along from a local Surrey Porsche restorer/specialist from whom I had bought some stuff from on e-bay.
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Wonderful stage to be at Mick....finish line well in sight :cheers:

I actually think the badge looks great - I truly love old badges with a dose of patina although I'm struggling with the idea of a brand new looking car with an old looking badge :? - a NOS original would would definitely be my ideal way to go if I could find one.

All the best with the rest of the build, hope to see the car in the flesh one day :)

Cheers,
MT
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Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by MT »

Well finally sorted the brakes (more or less!). In the end I had to get a new ATE master cylinder, and take a break in France.

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While I was away it came from Belgium. Anyway after another drain down of the system, more fluid up my arm (I use an old syringe from a inkjet cat ridge refill set to empty the reservoir, but still there's enough in the pipe to the m/c to get everywhere) and begging assistance from the missus, it behaves normally. Still have some air in there, but I can get a pedal with a lot of pumping, and it does release as it should. So have left it overnight, and will then give it another go.

Also got the Hella 128's I acquired off a DDKer some moths ago out of storage, and fitted the 12v bulbs I got for them (they had 6v ones in them)

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Got the bumper together with the Hella backs and again begged wifely assistance to get it fitted first time. It will have to come off again to tighten the 12 point bolts that hold the bumper iron to the bumper. I found the only way to get the positioning right is to fit the irons to the bumper, tighten these just enough to 'grab', fit to car, off again once the spacing to the side attachments is correct, and tighten. Refit. Also the fit just below the side light clusters is not good enough. The bumper bows down a bit too much to give a nice even line with the rubber seal, so I will try to ease the top edge up a bit at that point on both sides when it's off.

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You can see the poor fit better here - I see the lens needs some adjustment as well. I took it off to check an earth, and obviously wasn't too careful when I put it back on!

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Long engine now finally assembled and ancillaries fit underway. Might even get to see it later this week or early next. After all the delays to date, will believe it only when I see it!
After a discussion with Tony Outridge (who is doing the ancillaries fit) I have decided to use up a few dollars sitting in an account we still have in the US from our time living there in the 90's to 'invest' in some PMO's in place of the original Weber 40IDA's. The originals were quite badly water-damaged and have had quite a lot of repair work done on them. They are 'good to go' as Tony says, but his counsel is that they will likely be a bit tired and probably always not quite right. So I plan to put them in the same box as the original air cleaner box, engine board set-up and fuel pump to keep with the car. I'm still under the number I had in my mind to complete this restoration even with this bit of extravagance, and there shouldn't be too many opportunities left for ££ surprises, should there ...???....please....

As I've said before I want to do a bit of Continental touring with this car, and therefore I'll sacrifice originality for reliability and operability. They should be here early next week. If they look as good in reality as they do in the pictures then they're going on the mantelpiece (along with the SSI's) until they're needed.
http://www.pmocarb.com/features.htm

CLM, ho-hum, not dead yet.....
'Creativity is the product of time wasted' Albert Einstein

1972 RHD 2.4E (ex Bob Watson racer - now in original Tangerine)
1966 LHD swb (Doctors car - now with Mrs. Ferrari in Madrid)
1966 TR4A (now sold and replaced by 1990 944 turbo)
1966 S2a Landrover
Lightweight_911
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Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by Lightweight_911 »

It's all coming together nicely Mick - glad you sorted the brake problem.
Andy

“Adding power makes you faster on the straights;
- subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”
210bhp
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Re: 66 LHD 'Doctors Car' restoration begins

Post by 210bhp »

Mick

Great job. When you see the before and after pics you must be pleased. She looks a treat. Congrats on a great thread.

Did you have pig irons weights fitted to the front bumper when you got the car? I've forgotten.

Regards
Mike
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