Tank Cleaning

[mycar]

To cure my cars lumpy running I `ve had the ignition system given a good going over, points, leads, plugs, timing, etc.

A replacement air filter helped but when Mike Bainbridge cleaned out my carburetors he removed a load of grey silty sludge. You may have seen my post asking about multiple fuel filters but I decided to get to the root of the problem. Why fit four filters? much better to have clean fuel. Obvious really

The tank cleaning kit was from Frost.
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... ostSubcat=

More of that in a moment. Other things I needed were:-

Foam tank seal 901 201 023 05 for the newly cleaned tank to sit on, your old one is not reusable.

Fuel tank cap 901 201 023 05 actually a filter/screen, screws into the tank and accepts the fuel line. the first line of defence! Use the old one to plug it`s hole whilst cleaning

Sealing ring N 013 827 3 for above.

Hose clamp 999 512 055 02 for the fuel line, the old one might be knackered ( I the event, my apprentice decided this was a waste of puffing and panting and we used a jubilee clip)

Cork gasket 914 201 891 00 This is the seal for the fuel level sensor, the old one was rotted.

Disconnect the battery and remove from the car.

Removing the tank is straight forward, remove 3 hex bolts securing it to the chassis, filler hose, breather pipe and fuel level electrical connector.
Next, have a fag and have your apprentice crawl under the car, undo the fuel line and drain the tank. Actually probably best you DO NOT SMOKE AT THIS POINT..... AT ANY POINT IN THIS PROCESS.

Lift the empty tank out of the car, unscrew the fuel level sender and peer into the tank. When I peered, all I saw was clean shiney metal, I was a bit dissapointed. I needn`t have worried.

Before you start, plan how you are going to plug up the tank, sticky tape isn`t up to the job, doesn`t matter how sticky it is.

I used an aerosol cap to seal over the filler neck and a big softwood dowel to plug the level sender hole. the small screw holes around this have captive nuts underneath and do not need plugging.

Next thing is to start the Frost tank cleaning process. the instuctions are in the frost link above, but briefly it takes about a week. I did the first two processes... the marine clean for 24 hours each. If I were to do it again I would do it for 36 hours each and agitate more often. The first washing revealed a lot of cornflake sized flakes of rust, the second, lots of grim grey sludge, the type that Mike found in my carburetors.

Definately leave the second liquid, the Metal Ready, in for 24 hours or more. The rust in the tank is on the ceiling, so to speak, keep this in mind when you agitate and leave to soak.

After the Metal Ready, wash out with water, I used a pressure washer and kept going and agitating till it ran clear. This agitating business is pretty aerobic Lifting the tank overhead, up and down, here and there... it has to be done.

Drying the tank after all this washing, I did with a hair dryer but that was rubbish, so plan B was a hot air paint stripper, a bit drastic ( a bit hot if you don`t watch it), but effective. Make sure the tank is very dry before you move on... leave it warm overnight to make sure.

Finally the Petrol Tank Sealer. A silver one pack paint type liquid. Wear rubber gloves, it`s the devil to remove from flesh. Tank aerobics again, turning over and round to coat all internal surfaces and seal forever. I would be interested to see inside an early Porsche fuel tank, it seems it`s not just an empty box in there, it feels like there are baffles or structural divides. Pour the excess out(about half of what you started with) And leave to dry turned up so all the sealer can drain out of the filler neck.

Let the tank dry for 96 hours, I used the hair dryer every now and again to speed up the process..... Not the paint stripper this time.

Every thing done, refit the tank, the foam strip seal is self adhesive, stick it to the car body. The only tricky bit is the reconnecting of the fuel line. It has to pass through the bodywork and onto the new tank filter/screen you have bought. It just requires a bit of jiggery pokery with the positioning of the tank. Have your apprentice do this bit.

Fit a new fuel filter in the engine bay... and there you have it, a clean fuel supply. For those of you, handy with spanners, this is a pretty straightforward job. Personally I`m handy with chisels, so enrolled the
help of James 58A-71E. Thankyou James, I couldn`t have done it without your help.

Sorry I have no pictures of this process.... but there are pictures. No doubt they will be added sometime.

Regards, Mike.

[Bertroex]

Why fit four filters? much better to have clean fuel

A Klassik Kendall Kaper.



Bert

[mycar]

The four filter trick is a Wayne Dempsey Idea.

Belt and braces times two, maybe American fuel is murky stuff.

Mike.

[58A - 71E]

Some photos, but not of the aerobic agitating I'm afraid, plenty of Mike smoking tabs and supervizing the apprentice though

Tank out and cleaning the breather pipe out



Good opportunity to have a look into parts previously not seen "while I'm in here!"



Here's the old filter in the tank that connects to the fuel line that helps seal the tank up when throwing in the tank sealer



Good opportunity to replace knackered carb base gaskets and clean up mating surfaces of head and carbs



Bolt it all back together after a quick clean up and spray over



Throw in a gallon of gogo juice, check for leaks then attach battery and start her up - she runs !



Fill it up at the nearest petrol station then follow with an authentic Italian tune up session with the apprentice at the wheel

[912uk]

that Por 15 I think is the best I have used 3 different types of tanks kits and the por 15 is the best.
The hair dryer is the best trick keeps the tank warm for the process and also dry. I didn't have any probs with the kits and I found that the negative comments on we sites seamed to come from people who just didn't do what it says on the tin. The foam seal I cheated and bought some seal from RS
The finger filter I noted had two different types the early one is brass mesh where as the newer one is plastic

The wire mess I left in a bath of solvent over night and it was like new the next day..

Best thing I did the tank kit you will not regreat doing it..

Mines been done now 6/7 years still good..did you change the fuel pipe from the fuel finger filter to the metal fuel pipe? that's a pig to do but it's done then..every one forgets that pipe..

[mycar]

..did you change the fuel pipe from the fuel finger filter to the metal fuel pipe? that's a pig to do but it's done then..every one forgets that pipe..

No, I didn`t think about that but it seemed ok. As you say, might as well do it whilst you`re in there. Another thing to add to the list of bits needed before starting the job.

with an authentic Italian tune up session with the apprentice at the wheel

If there are any DDKers out there, wondering just how fast their cars will actually go..... hand your keys to Hakkinen Harwood and hide in the back seat.

Mike.

[58A - 71E]

..did you change the fuel pipe from the fuel finger filter to the metal fuel pipe? that's a pig to do but it's done then..every one forgets that pipe..

It had thankfully been done quite recently, as had all the pipes to the filter in the engine compartment and to the carbs - just they'd been done with the optional clips

Mike - hope you realise that if you do a sladey it adds at least another 20% that will need to be exploited

[Evil J Guano]

Perfect stuff chaps, just about to do this so this is great.

Did you blast out the fuel line or just not bother?

Was thinking of putting an airline to it just to clear out any sh*t (disconnecting carbs obv)

[912uk]

yes do that Gav

[Rickard M]

I will also fix my tank soon. If you blast out the fuel line with air, disconnecting the carbs, how do you do with the fuel pump, need to disconnect that aswell?

[mycar]

I don`t know the answer to this question, maybe someone else can jump in and help.

I didn`t clean my pump, I just got James to drive very very fast to flush it through.

Mike

[Rickard M]

Started of with my tank yesterday. Removed all the old stone chip paint.

There are some rust cavitys from the outside, not holes but I fell that I would like to fill them with something before the new paint. Any advice? Tin or something chemical maybe? The inside will be POR-15.

I’m also curious about the banjo fitting below the Fuel tank cap filter thing, Is it a return?

Also like I asked before, if someone know if I damage the pump if I also blast thru it with air?

[mycar]

Just to add a bit more information to this thread, borrowed from other forums.

Firstly others have had problems with the POR- 15 blocking the tank breather as it dries. Clearing it, once it is dry, seems to be a near impossible job, so probably best to let the tank dry on it`s bottom and check to see the hole is clear with a flexible piece of tube or what have you.

See here:-

http://www.early911sregistry.org/forum/ ... hp?t=30634

And this is what the inside of the tank looks like.



Regards, Mike.