912 outlaw project

[jury]

Decided to revisit wrapping the exhaust manifolds (insert American accent - Headers).

It was a PITA first time around and this time was no different...Itching and frustrating, but happy with how it turned out. Still not 100% convinced on the benefits for a road car, but I do like the vintage race car look. The plan was more for temperature management rather than performance gains...










Will probably end up having them Ceramic coated...

[jury]

Whilst in and under there I wanted to take look at the driver side rear wheel...It has a slight play to it which I suspected was the bearing.





Both bearings came out ok, but the outer bearing was very loose in the hub...I read that this not uncommon, but this one would fall out with the gentlest of taps on the hub.

So I center punched the mating surface and then applied some Loctite bearing retainer and left overnight.





Next morning, after the bearings spending a night in the freezer, everything pressed together ok.




It's better than it was, but the play is still noticeable, even after getting the castle nut up to 250 lbft ! Next step is top start removing some potential other culprits of noise / rocking actions...Roll bar, shocks etc...

[911hillclimber]

Ref: Wrapping
Nice and neat, no mean task and horrid to do!
I did my Turbo Impreza years back to keep the gases good and hot, so understand.
Only issue was when wet the stuff stinks to high heaven when drying out but it was not as exposed as a 911 system is.

Car look nice in the pic for the calendar.

[sladey]

Cool stuff Chris - it's all about the journey, not the destination

[neilbardsley]

That exhaust is too pretty to cover. Paint it!

Why put the bearings in the fridge to get them cold? So they fit tighter?

Sent from my Redmi 7 using Tapatalk

[911hillclimber]

Frozen, the bearing will reduce in diameter so when pushed into the arm, the force required will be far less than doing the same in ambient temperature.

[jury]

Frozen, the bearing will reduce in diameter so when pushed into the arm, the force required will be far less than doing the same in ambient temperature.

Exactly

[jury]

Next was to improve the Oil return routing.

The car is fitted with a larger, 930 Oil Tank. It doesn't have a front Oil cooler so the larger capacity tank is not a bad thing to have.....Other than trying to work out the correct Oil capacity. In the original build I had to modify the engine bay hole for the filler neck and filter.....In hindsight I should have fitted the earlier tank, the big problem is the thread sizes for hoses and fittings. The later tank uses M30, the earlier tank is M26...In addition the engine crankcase is also M26. Elephant Racing supply M30 - M26 adapters and elbows so fitting is fairly straightforward, the only problem I have had ( or unresolved solution ) is that the return line is a flexible hose that goes up and over the gearbox.

After abit of searching I had the plan to fit a later rigid (under the gearbox) pipe with the M30 fittings

It need bit teasing and persuading to adjust the bends to clear the gearbox, but it was fairly close...The only problem was that it fouled slightly on the crankcase.



A few choice cuts, pipe extending and brazing later it fits and looks a lot cleaner. Just about clears the wrapped manifolds.









The M30 elbow allows to fit a small section of the original hose and connect to the tank




Solving problems that shouldn't really exist.....but that's part of the fun (to me at least)

Onwards!

[jury]

...and then Downwards !

So I had put everything back together and did a few loops around the neighbourhood...All felt good.

Went out for an early morning drive...pulled onto freeway on ramp, pulling hard, HARDER !!! Then revs began to die ! Pulled onto hard shoulder, then silence ........BIGGGGGG HORNNNNNNNNN!! WOOOOOOSHHHHHH goes past.... S#*t that was close !

I was on the narrowest section of the hard shoulder in a grey car, against a grey wall wearing a grey sweatshirt...not the best situation, but lets focus.

Cranked over, cranking cranking but no start. Hooked up the emergency starter pack...Cranking nothing.

After afew attempts and pumping the pedal it eventually started and I managed to nurse along the shoulder to the next exit before it died again.

Started and then died again...albeit abit closer to civilisation




Thankfully I was only a mile from home at this point, but it took another 3 of these "procedures" to limp back home.

Thought was that it was either a fuel or ignition issue...After checking everything and getting it started again noticed the fuel pressure (Malpassi fuel filter / regulator) was dropping. So changed it out and ordered a new fuel pump.

It was only when I began to pack everything back in the frunk, that I realised the petrol tank breather pipe was full of liquid...In my attempt to clean up the routing of the pipe, I had inadvertently created a P-trap ! The weather had been quite hot recently, so I suspect that some fuel had vaporised and blocked the pipe, creating a vapor lock and not allowing the flow of fuel...The pump would be sucking air, and the faint smell of fried electrics lead to believe that the pump was overheating

So tank out and planned a new pipe...The obvious way would be to go through the original factory hole, but the car is running a bigger later tank and as a result the extra volume blocks off the hole...so I drilled a new hole and routed the pipe through there. Was also a great opportunity to clean out and touch up the area.





New Facet fuel pump fitted.....sounds like a bag of spanners ! I have never really been happy with them, this is the 3rd one I have used and they all sound like they are going to explode, I even updated the isolated fixings, but it still sounds the same.



I read that the Facet pumps prefer to push rather than pull the fuel through, but I have seen many early cars and modified cars with the pumps in the engine bay. However some research lead me to order a Pierburg front mounted pump. It is supplied by Redline / Weber...

Its a lot smaller, working on a vein system...All I had to do was make a bracket which attaches onto the steering rack and also fit a 180o elbow which cleans up the hose routing. Wired in easily to the dash switch.....at least we had the foresight of labelling the wiring. Tested the pump and the noise is amazing...In the sense that it is quiet compared to the Facet, also it is a constant whine as opposed to an erratic banging.







So that brings it up to date for now.....I might even drive it this weekend

Onwards again !!

[sladey]

Nice one chris - good problem solving. When my car breaks down it’s always good to start problem solving by looking at the last thing I worked on

[Darren65]

Car is looking as cool as ever Chris, thanks for sharing

[Cortina]

Whilst in and under there I wanted to take look at the driver side rear wheel...It has a slight play to it which I suspected was the bearing.





Both bearings came out ok, but the outer bearing was very loose in the hub...I read that this not uncommon, but this one would fall out with the gentlest of taps on the hub.

So I center punched the mating surface and then applied some Loctite bearing retainer and left overnight.





Next morning, after the bearings spending a night in the freezer, everything pressed together ok.




It's better than it was, but the play is still noticeable, even after getting the castle nut up to 250 lbft ! Next step is top start removing some potential other culprits of noise / rocking actions...Roll bar, shocks etc...

Tut Tut - btm picture is a "little bit naughty". Bearing should be pushed in / pulled in via the outside shell , NOT by the inner and hence via the balls etc . (just my fussy engineering perspective !)

[911SE]

Love this car Chris, such a cool story with the car moving with you across the pond multiple times too.

[jury]

Tut Tut - btm picture is a "little bit naughty". Bearing should be pushed in / pulled in via the outside shell , NOT by the inner and hence via the balls etc . (just my fussy engineering perspective !)

No worries, completely agree.....This set up was purely to hold the bearing in place whilst the Loctite was curing, it wasn't under any load. I didn't want any excess Loctite seeping through the interference face and onto the flat bar.

Cheers
Chris

[Cortina]

Jeepers - it must have been a very loose fit. I did the same as you, but without the centre punching - from what I remember the allowable gap was something massive like about 20 thou with of course the correct loctite product .... good stuff !!