Replacing tensioners /ramps / timing chains /Cam timing etc

[58A - 71E]

So after seeing a few recent threads on chain tensioners, and then the realisation that it was my turn

http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=15347

I thought I'd post a few pics of what I've been up to this week:

Just to recap, found a piece of chain ramp in the left side broken off so knew something wasn't right



Then realised that the sludge in my drain plug was a good chunk of the timing chain housings where the chain had been fouling and realised that the left cam pulley was incorrectly installed



So armed with new tools out she came



and was stripped back to this (previous continuous chains were split so I didnt have to part the case, as I would use new split chains)



unfortunately I had to remove the heat exchangers as there just wasnt enough clearance with them and the tin wear in place to get the chain housings off, and of course that resulted in snapped studs and new hardware

Then vapour blasted the housings and applied some JB weld as per the Dempsey book



Reattached the left side first and began to time the cam after first assembling the cam sprockets (the correct way this time!)



The sprockets took a long time to put in correctly, with many many vernier caliper measurements before being sure they were right. I also removed one of the studs out of the timing chain case as you have to torque the cam nut up to 150Nm several times as you check the measurements and in not using an extension bar on the torque wrench the crowfoot wrench leaves little room to tighten the nut more than a few small turns at a time

Then the right side using the stomski tensioner as per the Dempsey book, bought from Pelican Parts, and the very useful spark plug instal method for the alignment pin

[58A - 71E]

Then installed new 930 tensioners and 930 idler arms (Tim convinced me to go with the bushed items in one of his posts)



After checking that all the ramps were in place and happy with the chain movement etc it was time to seal up again



Everything built back up



Then reunited with the gearbox



Then back where it should be



Which means you cant see this view, but I thought I'd show it anyway (I do like those SS heatexchangers - I'll get my anaorak )



Anyway, it turns out there were a few problems



4 black ramps (2 smashed) and 2 brown ones didnt help (should have 5 and 1)

The left hand idler pulley had severely worn and needed to be replaced (more expense)



As had the left cam pulley, which also had to be replaced



So here's what was replaced



Plus gaskets, hardware, powder coating of tin ware and purchase of tools to do it, cost £1300

But as the saying goes, feeling of satisfaction knowing I'd been able to do it myself: Priceless

Now back to the 356....

[Ferry Man]

Great work. Well documented and well done.
Fascinating stuff. Good thread.

[hot66]

good write up James

[58A - 71E]

Should also add - after reading the thread and poll about which tensioner to go for I bought the safety collars and went for the 930 type. Although the original 901s hadn't failed as such the chain was so slack that they had obviously been extended fully for some time and I wanted piece of mind.

There is not enough room to install them yet, so will wait a year or so and then put them in. Good tip also mentioned by James (Hot66) about bleeding the tensioners - both mine needed doing and many air bubbles were released - thanks

Oh and the car runs far better than it ever did, sounds different too, not sure how much of this is due to replacing these parts/setting timing etc, as I also did a service / replaced MFI to cam belt and retimes MFI pump as well, but end result is that it was definitely worth doing

James

[impmad2000]

Excellent, looks quite a lot like mine on that stand
I must post a picture of the idler arms bushed out, has to be better
Good stuff anyway, I'm sure the chain alignment helps the noise issue a lot
Cheers
Tim