Cavity Waxing on a 911

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 9:02 am

Would be a shame to see black spoldge over the underside, but hopefully they'll have a clear alternative on offer as well.

I have to say that when I was looking into this, I struggled to find much in the way of clear: most seemed to be black.

911Smonster · Post by **911Smonster** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 10:59 am

The guy at B&A said they could do it in clear Waxoyl rather than the usual black. He said it dries a sort of pale amber colour and is transparent. That sounded like a good compromise to me. I'm going down there on Monday, so I'll let you know how I get on.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 2:43 pm

That's great: it's something that's cropped up quite a lot.

Be interested to know whether they are simply using 'normal' cavity wax for the underside (standard Wayoyl) or whether they've got a 'proper' clear(ish) underside wax.

Up to now I've just used cavity wax on the underside, as I didn't want black there and at the time couldn't find a clear underside product.

Patrice · Post by **Patrice** » Wed Aug 15, 2007 7:32 pm

911Smonster wrote:Has anyone had their car waxoyled by Before 'n' After? I've got mine booked in shortly, so it would be interesting to hear any feedback. Here's a link to their website.

http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/

I would be very interested to hear your feedback, as I have to have it done very soon.

911Smonster · Post by **911Smonster** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 4:07 pm

So I finally bit the bullet and had the old girl fully waxoyled yesterday by Before 'n' After. First impressions are very good. The guy is a specialist with tons of experience, rustproofing being his sole business since the late 80s. So I'm pretty confident he knows his stuff and has done the job thoroughly. There are no traces of waxoyl on the interior, so that's a relief! He also used a special clear waxoyl, so there are no messy black splodges underneath. It just looks like an oily transparent film at the moment.

Patrice · Post by **Patrice** » Tue Aug 21, 2007 7:03 pm

Did you have to leave you car and for how long?

911Smonster · Post by **911Smonster** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:49 am

It takes around 6 hours but they do provide a courtesy car. I had a good poke around it last night and it looks great. The underside is clean and thoroughly coated, but doesn't look like a mess. I can see all the cavities have been injected by the traces of waxoyl around the drainage holes, but again no mess. It stinks of waxoyl now of course, but he pre-warned me about that. Apparently the smell goes away after a couple of weeks. There's no way I'd want to tackle this hideous job myself, so I'm very happy with the result. Cost was £540, so not exactly cheap, but I wanted it done properly. I was quoted £750 by someone else for Dinitrol treatment, which I thought was excessive.

911Smonster · Post by **911Smonster** » Wed Sep 05, 2007 3:24 pm

Well the smell has gone now as promised. Looking good and would recommend to anyone who can't be bothered attempting this sh*tty job themselves.

lacymr · Post by **lacymr** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 10:22 am

I have used the Dinol cavity wax and they do a 600mm extension probe. The nice thing about this is that it has a very small tube, and the end gives a supurbe fan spray unlike the waxoyl home application kit. I now just use waxoyl for the more accessable areas, and the dinol spray for the sections.

Michael

pete917 · Post by **pete917** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:20 pm

Great overview of where to wax - thank you.

So, should you perhaps use cavity wax for those hard to reach areas and something else for the open span areas?

What would be really helpful is a sketch of the body showing the sreas that need to be accessed.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 10:49 pm

I've got two or three shells due through over the next eight months or so that, between them, will illustrate just about every rust point known to an early 911.

Plan is to photograph every open cavity so that people can see a) where to aim the wax at, and b) why it rusts there in the first place.

As for your question: technically, cavity wax anywhere where it won't be blasted by road spray, and underside wax (which is much heavier and stickier) where a heavier-duty protection is required. It now seems as though these are available in a 'clear' (very much clear'ish though, so don't expect it to show off your body-coloured wheel arches

), as well as the more traditional 'black'.

In the past I've simply used cavity wax everywhere, and TBH because it dries out quite firmly (after a few weeks), it seemed to work just fine, although the last car I did used Dinitrol for the cavities and behind bumpers / sill trims etc, and Wurth underside wax for the front pan and floor areas.

Frankly, my personal thought is that just as long as the cavities are well coated, and something or other has been put everywhere, you'll be further ahead than most people. After that, it's more important to store the car well (dry, well ventilated or de-humidified), re-apply the cavity wax every two or three years (just a light top-up), and clean / dry / inspect and touch up the underside every year.

As soon as I've done the pictures (the first of the above cars is due in over the next three or four weeks), I'll post them up and update the initial How-To as well, as I've thought of some refinements for it.

BTW and out of interest, I just offer panelwork, and can't offer cavity wax as a service. This thread started because JT Parr asked me about it when he was due to wax his 2.7 Carrera. I P.M.ed him the beginings of this thread, and that was that. I believe it's now on at least three other forums, and hopefully they'll spot the updates and ask for the details as I can't actually remember who's used it

. Anyway, point being is that I've got no axe to grind either way, and am delighted that the little guide has come in handy here and there

.

pete917 · Post by **pete917** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:43 am

thanks Barry

I think Ill hold fire until I see you pics.

Thank you so much for this guide. Very helpful.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:52 am

jtparr · Post by **jtparr** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:13 pm

to secnd that it was a fine guide from Barry, helped me get the thing done easily

it was also worth it as he recomended I drill a few extra holes in the inside faces of the C pillars for example and a few extras in the tops of the outer cills, all plugged with readily available plastic core plugs, and covered up either with the headlining or the aluminium cill trims, anything to help get the wax in

I bought a spray gun kit specially, which had 2 spray type leads, and I also modified one that came with a can of bilt hammer as it had a fine nozzle tip

its bit of a filthy job, as the warmed waxoil (put the gun bottle it the sink with boiling water for 10 mins) is just the job and creates a really fine mist that got all over the garage floor and the drops of waxoil out of the drain plugs had me cleaning the floor more than one of twice

next time I'll put down some old carpet beforehand

cars currently on axle stands having a winter service and after a year is getting a top up of the waxoil here and there, although it probably doesn't need it, its easy to do and after a jet wash I did with one of those power washers from Halfords the arches are nice and clean

no way would I waste paying anyone £500 to do it, its easy and quite rewarding

jp

pete917 · Post by **pete917** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:22 am

Another satisfied waxer I see.

What plastic core plugs did you use? Rubber grommets?