DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

I'll take out my passenger footboard and draw a template for you tonight if that will help?

911hillclimber wrote:This is the best bit!

As an aside:
What are the two round hole/features above the rear tunnel above the gear-shift hatch?

and

Why did Porsche have a vented cover there anyway?

They're seat belt (lap belt) anchor points. Not a great place as the belt sits too high and will pull across your gut in a collision. Whilst he was replacing the floor, Barry very kindly added some other ones in the same position as 1970s car.

I've still to work out why the rear cover is vented. It was a solid plate on my 72 911. When I was disassembling this car the inside of the tunnel was filled with 50 years of fluff and grease.

Gary71 wrote:I'll take out my passenger footboard and draw a template for you tonight if that will help?

Thanks Gary. It would save 30 quid, which at this stage in the game would be nice. I have loads of plyboard in shed and it seems an easy place to save money.

In return, I would like to buy some of your nice rear seat retaining straps. Do you still have those?

Hi Jamie, Photos are below:Follow the links to the originals and you can print the (shoddy!) template out full size.

Or just pm your address and I'll stick it in the post for you.

GCS_3033-1 by Gary Suggate, on Flickr

GCS_3034-2 by Gary Suggate, on Flickr

GCS_3037-3 by Gary Suggate, on Flickr

Unfortunately I got out of the strap business a few years back Or actually the local company I used to make bits to my design went under...

Cheers Gary - I'm sure lots of people will find that a big help. I'll scale it and print it out. Perhaps there should be a DDK resource page for making simple things like this?

Shame to hear about the straps. On the other hand, I have some leather straps which I ordered for my inner door handles. Do you remember the pop-stud size?

jamie wrote:Can anyone help me with my locks? My ignition lock doesn't match my door locks or glove box lock. I don't care about the glove box too much, but I'd like to get the others sorted.

I presume you can buy the slidey things that go in the barrels, and rebuild your own. Any how-tos or recommendation on where to get the bits?

As Charles said (shoestring7) I bought a kit that allows me to make a tumbler fit a key, so if you can be arsed to come by (I live 1 mile from Garry/visualfx) I'll happily change the tumblers in your door locks so your ignition key will open them. Gratis. Pm if interested.

Mick

Hi Mick. Very kind - thanks. I'll drop you a PM...

Up next to the grey relay. It's the hazard flasher unit (and unobtanium!)

Mick

Thanks Mick. Any idea how it attaches / how it's mounted? Wish I had taken more photos during disassembly...

Not the most useful photo Jamie, but the only one I can find. Shows where it goes if nothing else!



Mick

Big help - thanks!

Turns out the relay has a clip on the top, which locates in a small hole up on the firewall. Fitted now.

Bit more wiring done. Wiper system is in with new rubber grommets. The fresh air vent is in - I'd lost the bowden cable that links it to the lever on the dash, so I made a new one by cutting a section from a shouldered bolt, drilling into the end, then through where the cable enters it. Bent the tip of the cable at 90s degrees, hooked it into the hole, and filled the whole thing with solder. It worked great and was very satisfying.

I've started putting the last few bits of the engine together. The dude got most of it done, but there are bits of tinware to sort out. I can't work out how the cool cable/pulley throttle system that he made goes together, and I can't get hold of him to ask, so I may buy something called a SyncLink. It does the same thing, only it doesn't look as clean. But I want to get the thing going.

Whilst putting the air filters on the carbs, this happened...



The bolt went in, and it turned, and it turned and then the side of the hole fell off. I stared at it in shock, then noticed that there was glue on the face that had been exposed. You can see it clearly in this photo. Someone must have done this in the past. Glue wasn't going to cut it, so I put longer bolt in there, with a washer and a nut on the end that poked out (and took this stupid photo where you can't quite see it).



Luckily it's on a corner that faces the firewall, so not obvious. Arughh.

I love this though - intake trumpets are mega cool (even when they're on a 912).



I also fitted the front badge. It's a lovely orange bar badge that my friend John Gray gave me when the car was parked in his garage in San Ramon (coming up to three years ago!). There is some enamel missing, but I love the way it looks. When I restored my IWL Berlin, I put the original badges back on afterwards and I loved the look - new and old in harmony.

Unfortunately, the rear decklid '912' and 'P O R S C H E' lettering was all scratched up and just looked shite. So I took one of my favourite sanding blocks and refaced them with 400 grit. This gave a really lovely brushed look, and the lettering looks great in the back of the car. I'll get better shot in daylight at some point.



Sort of like Bob Tilton's Economy Fuchs refurb for badges.

Also fitted the rear grille (plus rainshield). I spent some time straightening the bars, which was worth it. It's not perfect, but it's good enough for me. This is becoming my ethos on the build - it probably won't be perfect, but it has to be good enough to make me happy.

I also got my 901 back from Mike Bainbridge. As well as replacing all the worn-out crap inside, he also cleaned the cases nicely and fitted replated hardware. The Wevo reinforced side plate and powdercoated crossmember is on. Who knew a gearbox could look so smart?

I really wanted to re-use the clutch that I removed from the car. 911 clutches are a lot more expensive than any clutch I've ever bought for other cars and this one still had loads of meat left on it. Somewhere along the line I've managed to lose the friction plate, so I will have to buy a new one. Where does all this lost shite go, I wonder?

At an auto jumble near you...

How can you misplace so much?

Will you clear coat the re faced badges after the 400 gritting?

Great progress. Got an eta yet?

I would like it MOT'd and on the road by Spring.

No clear coat on the badges. I didn't want them to do that spidery corrosion thing you see on clear-lacquered alloy wheels. I'll just wax them when I wax the paint - should be OK.