DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Where’s the old crank / rods / B&P going?

I think I will offer them on here.

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As it says 'S/H' next to crank and rods, I suspect reusing some stock 2-litre 71mm crank and conrods. New 96mm barrels and pistons give you the 2056cc. I'll be interested to see GAC's choice of camshaft and what head mods they've done.

Glad you're loving the car! They are very addictive...

Spoke to Alan again. Engine back together and 44 webers are on. Time to tune on their Dyno. I asked them to mark the TDC on the fan with something colourful for me. Trying to see the timing mark on a 914 isn't easy.

I've ordered some heat exchange flappers and hose so we can get the heating system working.

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Call from Alan today while doing graduate interviews on the www

125ft of torque. Maxing at 3.5k.

Interestingly 100 ft of torque at 1.5k

Should be night and day compared to the engine before

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That is going to be so drivable, nice numbers overall.

Exciting!

Now go out and enjoy!

That should go well Neil, enjoy!

Have you got it back yet?
If so are you pleased with it?

It's back. Fetched this morning and a bit underwhelming to be honest. The accelerator cable needs replacing so is sticky. Which makes the throttle a bit off/on. That said the torque is very nice and accelerates nicely from 3k onwards.

Alan said he couldn't find an accelerator but I've ordered one from RogerBray in 5 mins. I haven't looked at how to fit but I'm guess that is some tunnel that is has to feed through. I think that will make the car much more responsive. The journey home was helped by some of the wind screen trim coming off after a blast on a dual carriageway.

Alan's place was as you would expect a large barn with lathes/milling machines with bits of engines everything.

He has said he is retiring in a few months which came as surprise. I had better drive the car a lot to check for any issues.

Alan said no special breaking in routine. It has spent 2 hours on his Dyno already but check the valve after 1k and set to .0007 inch on both because of the cam.

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Managed to get my hands on my old cranks and rods. Which Alan said where in good usable condition

Its not light. I will be selling it soon

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Great news Neil

Changing the throttle cable is a right PITA. You thread it through from the back and there is no conduit in the tunnel, so you have to make sure you don't get it looped round the clutch cable (if you do, each time you push the clutch, the throttle opens...). At the front end, you'll then need to screw on the ball joint fitting (rescued from the old cable) that then clips onto the throttle pedal. It helps to have small hands. If you have a centre console, you'll need to remove it first to get access. Routing the cable at the back plays a big role in how the throttle feels – the cable doesn't like to be bent too much as the plastic inner sheath snaps.

I found that an endoscope attachment on an iPhone is invaluable – you look down the tunnel from the front to check the cable hasn't got misrouted.

I was considering trying to attach it to the old one, with string, and pull it through?

However, I've read that you pull the old cable back into the engine bay and push the new one towards the pedal

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