The shell is now prepared and ready for its first coat of paint next week
Our Bodyshop Manager, Rich, was keen to see as many early 911s as he could so we paid a visit to Canford Classics on Wednesday. Chris at CC kindly allowed us to look at a number of cars and highlighted the many variations that came out of the factory, this reassured Rich as there's nothing he can get fundamentally wrong!
That being said the plan is to keep as close to factory specification as possible and although it obviously makes sense to use the best modern materials available I really wanted to avoid water based products. So after much research and discussion with our local area Glasurit Technician (cheers Mark & Mal) we've opted for the following products:
Base Coat - rather than a conventional etch we'll be using Glasurit 801-72 Epoxy Primer. This is a high build primer and acts as an excellent etch coat although with superior rust protection qualities.
Filler Work - with commercial repairs you would normally always go back to bare metal, repair, fill and then paint. As only very light filling will be required in this instance we'll leave the epoxy coat and prepare from here, inevitably some bare metal may be exposed in the preparation so we'll probably go for a second coat of epoxy. Overkill maybe but well protected.
Primer - this will be Glasurit 285-655, again a good quality 2K high build primer and an excellent base. Although obvious it's critical to ensure that all products used are compatible with each other.
Top Coat - Traditionally this would have been Glasurit 11 Line, almost impossible to find now and I'm told a slow curing paint that takes a while to harden. In recent years Glasurit 55 Line would be used as a base and then lacquered however wanting to stick with a solid 2K product I've opted for R-M Graphite HD.
Like Glasurit, R-M is also a brand of BASF Coatings and this is an excellent quality traditional high solid 2K paint that produces a deep glossy rock hard finish.
Underseal - I wanted to avoid standard stonechip products for this. Regular stonechip can become brittle and crack over a period of time and despite the name (or like) does actually chip, it can also be quite thin and difficult to build. So here we are using Teroson Terotex Record 2000HS - this can be applied in various thicknesses and has a rubberised texture like the factory product, it also sticks to blankets (and cars) better than anything else you could think of and we should be able to replicate the original heavy underbody texture whilst applying it slightly lighter elsewhere.
Seam Sealer and Sound Pads - For the sake of increased protection, other than the under bonnet area and unlike a lot of factory finishes(?) I've seen, we'll be brush seam sealing everywhere using Teroson Terolan 53. The sound pads will be Teroson Terodem SP300 which are a good quality anti-drome product.
Now all we have to do is apply all this to the highest of standards
Cheers,
Darren
) helped me source a very nice set from the states. Duly dropped to Mr Fulljames for refurb...
- Also collected some very nice shiny bits from Canford Classics 