DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Don't fret too much over the noisy throw out bearing Neil.
My 356 has had a noisy one for most of the time I've had it, but i haven't used it that much in the last 10years, probably 100 miles per year or if that even.
If it is that easy to take the gearbox out of a 914 then the bearing is an easy job .
I'm actually doing mine at the mo, but have found that the noisy old bearing has worn my pressure plate spring forks,
so don't run it for too long like it, unless your going to change that too. May as well while you've got it apart.
It's all part of the fun, I hope.

Karl.

Has anyone tried this brake up grade?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticl ... lipers.htm

I've been very underwhelmed with the brakes on my 914. The discs are new and Andrew had the front calipers rebuilt. Plus I rebleed so they are probably as good as they are going to get?

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The BMW conversion - and a similar one using Alfa Brembo calipers - is an old one, using what are now old, hard to find calipers that will need rebuilding if you do track a pair down. Unless you're going for the full five-lug 911 conversion, using 911 struts, discs and calipers, I'd suggest staying with the rebuilt stock ones and using some good quality pads, braided steel hoses, etc.

Who's Andrew?

Who’s Andrew?

The person he bought it off

https://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewt ... 21&t=67251

None so blind as those who will not see.

As my name has been mentioned I will chip in.

As all the brakes were refreshed - new Sebro rotors, refurbed calipers and new brake pads, I would be tempted to give it a bit longer to see how well they all bed in.

No reason why they shouldn't but as I did comment when selling the car, the brakes will need properly bedding in, something I never did as I never drove the car. I would suggest worth running through that process a few times and then to put more miles on the car to see if things improve.

I expect they will improve with mileage, but if they don't you could always put new pads in again and repeat the process.

Good luck
Andrew

Well one step forward and three back. After much searching I found the 27 degree advance mark. It's hidden on the side of the fly wheel I can't see without using my mobile. Seeing that I had moved the dwell angle from 60 to 48 I suspected the car was running a bit better because it was now too advanced. Once I took the vacuum lives off the distributor it was idling nearer 2000. After going the wrong way I figured out I needed to turn the distributor clockwise to retard it. Got it onto the timing mark when decided to attach my rpm counter to check I was at 3400 when hitting the 27 adv mark. The car stopped mid check and just refused to start again.

Not clear to me what failed mid test. I suspect something electronic but ? I checked that I hadn't removed any ignition wires from the distributor cap still no luck. I should add that the green check oil light isn't coming on when I turn on the ignition. Then it got dark

Very strange. I drove the car today and it started quickly each time?

Might order a new condenser and fit it? Anyone know the part number?

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The next stage of this car's life is about to begin.

The engine always stuck me as unresponsive hence my attempt to tune it. I suspected even if I did tune it well or get someone to do it I was always going to be disappointed.

The engine is being rebuilt to 2056 going onto webers. I got help and advice from lots of people but decided to use GAC. They do it all the machining in house. They have a full flow head bench test and Dyno. They have won lots of Formula Vee races. Surprise, surprise, it being me, they are competitively priced.

Hopefully, 140 torque might be possible but Alan at GAC said that would be good going.


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Spoke to Alan yesterday to get an update.

Bottom end already rebuilt. Some value guides need to be replaced. Some porting to be done on the heads. Top end going back together soon. New clutch ordered but will take 2 weeks. He is aiming for about 9/1 compression.

He said something interesting about being able to advance the timing more when not underload.

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neilbardsley wrote:The engine is being rebuilt to 2056 going onto webers.

That should spice things up Neil! If that's not enough there's always their Drag Race 2332 engine

neilbardsley wrote:
He said something interesting about being able to advance the timing more when not under load.

What was it he did say ?

neilbardsley wrote:Spoke to Alan yesterday to get an update.

Bottom end already rebuilt. Some value guides need to be replaced. Some porting to be done on the heads. Top end going back together soon. New clutch ordered but will take 2 weeks. He is aiming for about 9/1 compression.

He said something interesting about being able to advance the timing more when not underload.

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What crank and rods are you using? Cam?

Missed this thread entirely until now!......good to see you've replaced the 912 Neil and hope all goes well with the engine rebuild

mycar wrote:

neilbardsley wrote:
He said something interesting about being able to advance the timing more when not under load.

What was it he did say ?

He said that he will aim for about 34 under load but the timing can be higher when cruising. They will use there Dyno to set.

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KS wrote:

neilbardsley wrote:Spoke to Alan yesterday to get an update.

Bottom end already rebuilt. Some value guides need to be replaced. Some porting to be done on the heads. Top end going back together soon. New clutch ordered but will take 2 weeks. He is aiming for about 9/1 compression.

He said something interesting about being able to advance the timing more when not underload.

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What crank and rods are you using? Cam?

Good question. I checked the quote and it doesn't say.

I will ask

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