DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Looking nice..why is the dempsey book controversial?

I made this little tool to fit stem oil seals with zero issues


I note we have the same oil pump but mine is in earlier cases I am expecting a problem finding a cover to go over the mesh on my installation since your later case has a different profile.

I was wondering that! Nick Fulljames told me it had a few vital bits missing.

I have a tool a bit like that, but it would not get the seal on.
All sorted now, seal in place and re-build to continue friday when it is the dreaded case joining job.

The Dempsey book is quite good and very concise and nicely logical, but you get to the rod bolt tightening bit: Dempsey- loctite and torque + 1/4 turn, but 3.2's have 2 specs, 10 lbft + 1/4turn + 1/4turn for 12.9 bolts and 10 lbft + 1/4turn for '00' bolts, all with oil on the threads and nut face.(as per Porsche spec).

The book does not cover this, but dead important.

Also I looked through my book 3 times to read about head re-furb, nothing!
I needed the spring length size/tolerance, nothing I noticed in the book, but you have to get his other book to read about that.

Found the dimension in the Haynes book.

Dempsey's book is however an excellent guide in all manner of details, like very few cases come back from cleaning/machining with No 8 bearing location dowel still in place. Mine didn't either. I made one from a blunt drill from China, not exactly HSS so easy to cut!

It does make you look closely at every nook-n-cranny, and the pictures are superb.

Oh I see. nothing there that would affect my early motors then . My copy has all the free length info and set up numbers for the valves I didn't bother to read up how, just took the correct values for stem length and spring installed length since I already knew about the neccesity and how important it is to maintain correct rocker and valve geometry.

I've nearly finished this one now good luck with the case assemblly.

andy

Cases together and all P&B on the engine.

I decided to use the 'put the piston in the barrels, then that onto the rods' method, opposite to the way I have done these before.
The difference is amazing, just so much easier.
Even more amazing is not one pin C clip tried to escape the garage when being eased into the piston!
A first for me as I was using fingers and a very small screwdriver. No time at work to make a replica of the Haasad demon tool.

One pin just would not go into the piston but found the leading edge of the C clip groove was damaged oh so slightly and after trimming with a Stanley Knife(!) the pin slipped it nicely.

My head that went back for the seal/guide to be sorted has not returned so the build has stopped.
Hope it is not lost in the post....Be just my luck with this errant engine.

I bought a fancy ring compressor for this build, and it must be the best tool I've bought for ages.
Well worth £30.

Engine not so good as Haasad's but catching him up!

I think you've overtaken me........kids and holidays still thats why we have em.

Getting going finally now I'm clear of a specialist...

After a bit of a push things are almost done.
It just needs fitting back into the Lola, some oil/petrol and a quick pray and it will fire.....

Well done and fingers crossed, I knew you'd beat me...I've been sidetracked by boats and sun...

andy

Ah... but I have the gearbox to get done yet....

I could fit the lot together now and run the engine in on the track or at Bob's rolling road, then out with the box again for a taller CW&P at Mike Bainbridge's place.

Bob's rollers may be better because if I have it all wrong then there is an expert to check it for me.

911hillclimber wrote:After a bit of a push things are almost done.
It just needs fitting back into the Lola, some oil/petrol and a quick pray and it will fire.....

You've obviously taken a hint from Robert the Bruce's spider. Persistence pays (is that why I'm so poor?)
Do you drop the engine/box into the chassis from an engine crane or is it easier to offer the chassis up to the powertrain?

It gets suspended from a simple engine hoist without gearbox into the cage of the rear subframe, front cross mount bolted up and the engine jacked underneath.
Fit the box on and then the gearbox cross member, a few more bolts and bits and its done. Takes about 1 hour or 90 mins if I'm lazy or it fights back (usually the latter)

This car is never easy.

Something is wrong!

It starts and it miss fires, not with pops and bangs but just seems to run on 5 ish cylinders, one doing nothing
# 5 plug is far cooler than the others...

jUST TAKEN A PLUG LEAD OF EACH CYLINDER, RE-STARTING EVERY TIME. mISS-BEAT IS NOT AFFECTED AT ALL NO MATTER WHICH LEAD IS OFF!
tHUS
tHE CAMS MUST BE OUT OF TIME?

Utterly naffed-off now with all things Porsche AND OF COURSE MY IN-ABILITY TO GET IT RIGHT!

Mate of mine just bought a 52K miles from new TR7 and it is a dream. £2200, less than the specialist bill for this engine....

If No 5 is the issue, then probably valve clearance or injector problem - is the connection ok on the injector?

Chris

Checked the valve clearances, 4 thou as it should be, but the engine is on carbs and was running really well before #4 came apart at 5000 rpm full throttle in 3rd.

Telling thing I think is that whichever lead I took off the engine 'note' never changed.