DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Can you run in the engine on an engine dyno ? Neil Bainbridge has one, and I know another here in Leicestershire, that is used regularly for breaking in engines.

Is it that important on an engine such as this?
The barrels are smooth, pistons are smoothed and only the rings are 'sharp'

In the rebuild manual I've just read they simply talk of a 2000 rpm 10 minute 'tickover' on a totally fresh rebuild and then drop the oil for new.

Graham

When I fitted new rings to my 911 engine the instructions that came with the rings said the initial bedding in had to be done with the engine in a working rev range, i.e above 2000. The revs should be varied, not constant. So i got it fired up in the garage ,quickly set the idle at about 2500 and played with the throttle moving gradually up and down the range for 20 mins.

Sorry no comment on the heads, other than yes the clean one does look odd, as you have said yourself.

Thanks Mike for the running-in tip.
Even I can manage that before going down to Bob's rollers.

Not sure why the one is nearly clean, no spark and or no fuel to burn?

Carbs will come apart and cleaned through before going back on.
The black carboned ones are 'hard' carbon that will need mechanically moving, it is baked on solid.

All this and about 7 miles of running!
Thing looks like 7000 miles or more.

How do the heads correspond to the lower compression cylinders? The two that were down 20%.

Also with the leakdown test, where was the air coming from? Valves or bores?

Graham

The air put into the cylinder pressurised the crank case and pushed a full litre of oil out on the rollers when Bob ran the engine with the dry sump tank vent return hose off.

I cleaned # 1 head up this morning, hard carbon etc.

Took a bit of cleaning off (it was not just a sooty coating).
I took the valves out to lap them again as a precaution only to find the exhaust valve stem seal off the guide! i obviously had not knocked it down fully last time....
Inlet was fine.
I will clean and lap all the other heads!

I have measured and matched the pistons to the barrels and soon by demon ring compressor will arrive and the copper base gaskets.
I will try putting the piston in the cylinder and then attaching the con rod to see if it is easier than the other way of assembly, but those piston pin C clips are a real pest to deal with and space is v cramped due to the forrest of cylinder studs!

I am still concerned by the one that looks like it has barely been firing. This needs to be looked at carefully, ignition or mixture?

I do hope i can get a good engine this time.

911hillclimber wrote:The air put into the cylinder pressurised the crank case

So the cylinders that were 20% down were leaking past the rings?

Do you think that is the cause of the poor performance?

Or more that it wasn't firing on one cylinder?

After the quick re-ring the compression was good, and maybe why the 270 bhp figure was reached, but i know the ring gap was at the size usually meaning a new set of P&B were needed, so the sets were well past their sell by date.

The replacement P&B are good and with the new rings should be fine.

There were no induction leaks, so the air went past the two pots to the case.

The one cylinder barely firing is the reason for the 'missing' sound in the engine (always been there) and the temp difference in the two sides (always been there) but Bob's rollers showed 6 sparks, not 5 and the sound has never been a real miss-fire sound.

Needless to say, that lead/connector will be replaced, but i do have my doubts about the ignition transducer.

ahh, that makes sense. I had missed (or forgotten) the change of B&P.

plodding through the rebuild still.
It's not so interesting when you did the same thing 17 miles ago...

Heads all cleaned, valves re-ground just for assurance, but apart from the one valve stem seal off the one head, all was well if somewhat coked over in an oily soot, apart fron that one that obviously was not firing much.

Fitting the rings to the bores to check the gap shows the bores to be very close to original spec where previously the gap was a huge 13 thou.

Had a right game getting the piston pin C clips in but all done now, heads on paying care to the torque of the heads and the cam carrier and the cams rotate nicely when all done.

Trying to convince myself to time the cams in the garage, but will probably take the engine to Bob's for the timing/tappets as before. i dont have the dti gauge and the mounting block anyway, would have to make a block etc.

Next will be a strip of the PMO cars to ensure the holes are all clear hence the bulk buy of carb cleaner!

All a bit tedious, but saw a mates Smart car last night that hillclimbs. It has a Toyota MR" engine in it and now is getting a Mini Cooper S supercharger.....looks a more interesting and FAR cheaper project to me.
This has to work this year coming.

But in the paddock would you rather sit by a Lola Porsche or a Smart car ...... You'll have it sorted in no time now.

andy

Engine all timed-up by Bob, gearbox refreshed by Mike and installation finished by Team 911!
If i had petrol and oil I could fire it up.

Plan was to get it to Bob's for a running in on the rollers and a tune-up before Xmas, but I think I'm out of time now. Been distracted by the Kart and Kart Mania, thinking of selling the Barlotti as i honestly cannot see me having time to ride'drive it next year.

Contemplating doing 2nd on my 911 915 box as it is generally tired now crunching sometimes into 2nd from first, ok from 3rd.
Bob re-built it 60K road/hillclimb miles ago in '97 I think so it's done well. Might fit a Kass LSD while it's opened up. 4 months until the first hillclimb. I hope 2012 is a zillion times better than 2011.

did the rotor-arm arrive Graham?

Yep!
Thanks, forgot to let you know...
Not sure i will use it though as i have no other means of limiting the revs!
It is in safe hands though.
Graham.

Wet and 'orrid outside today, bedroom finished ( x 10) so back into the garage/torture chamber.

Welded a few tubes together for a mate's supercharged, toyota 2 litre powered Smart for 2 racer ( x 10) so i thought i would start the Lola.

Plugs out, turns over well full oil pressure.
Plugs clean and go back in.
Fresh Optimax fuel.
Turn everything on, pump goes crazy filling the empty PMO's.

Two turns and BANG splat and bang...

Check the plug leads and I've mixed 2 and 4 so that corrected i expected some Action

Bugger-all. The thing will not fire to run, some low level pops, some spitting through the carbs and a flattened racing Red Top battery that will fire the QE II if asked.

Will charge overnight, but will this car EVER stop fighting me?