DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Well I found an issue. Part 26. There is play in this. The bolt which has a point on the end and goes into a whole in the rod is loosen. I tired to tired it up and after a while it just turns. Makes me think the thread is gone. However, the thread on the bolt is fine and it turns in by head bit is loose. I can't find the part on any of the normal sites? Also it's not clear to me how it separates from part 27. Found this issue when I was trying to set the shifting and the rod pulled out. Glad I found this at home not on my first long drive.

Gone the rear of the car up to look at the handbrake. There isn't an clicking noise when I try to pull the handbrake up. Right wheel moves freely but with a little noise when turned. When the handbrake is down. Left wheel has some resistance but also can be turned by home. Found the cable adjustment screws but wasn't happy under the car. Tried to adjust the right wheel but didn't react to me screw it out. The nuts on the left side didn't want to separate. I think maybe the right side needs backing off as it's too tight.

Spoke to Angus and will let them have a go. However, they can take for 2 weeks so might have another go.





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Drill out the hole and use a helicoil to suit the grub screw/ bolt with point.
If the UJ is like the 911 version, there will be a clamp on the side opposite to the grid screw.


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Looks like I have to remove the entire rear. Bottom picture is the part that is at fault. Top is where the rod attached to gearbox.

rod.

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If you pull the selector rid from the shifter out, is there room to helicoil in situ ?


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Only if I had the car on a ramp. Angus said I could use their outdoor ramp bit then I have the prob of no power for my drill and how to hold it in place.

Is it worthwhile trying to rethread before drilling? I have a tool for that. However, once cross threaded it will never be the same?

Tried to measure the size while still attached and got 9.7. I guess it 10mm

Ordered a helicoil repair kit. I will try when it arrives.

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You should be able to do on stands easily enough Neil, rear only and slide under from the rear. I fabricated a new linkage end to end like that, and it was not too bad. If you want to be really posh, get some really high stands and a creeper!

I found the middle of the gearbox a good place to Jack from, with the handle of the jack to the rear, as it lifts nice and level and is really stable. I know jacking on an engine or box is never really recommended, but the 914 is so light, it never seemed a problem in my 20 years ownership, even with the heavier 6 motor. In many ways, it is safer than messing around side to side, especially in a confined space.

I would disassembled and do it on the bench in good light, rather than try and do it blind.

Good luck

Thank you where do you place your jack stands?

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The 914 trailing arms have a round shape where they bolt to the body (look under the leading edge of the rear arches) - this provides a really secure place for the axle stands to locate on, because their shape is the perfect mirror image. They are outboard too, so just under the car and safe to get to whilst setting up.

Neil- you can easily run an extension lead out to the outdoor ramp at Greatworth - drill away to your hearts content!

Got the speedometer out and tested. Still not working. I think that the driver isn't seated into the gear. I thought I would send it away. Then I had another go and got it working. I seated the driver correctly and it worked. However, as i tried to tap the bezel back in I did this. I was trapped from back but clearly being to vigorous. Looks like it will have to go away after all



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Neil, I’ve got a Julian Reap serviced silver dot 914 speedo if you decide to go the easy route

Thank you. It with someone now. Hopefully that works out.

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Today I wondered if I could put a spacer between the latch and trunk to rise the front of the trunk to lower the rear? Couldn't see how to do this otherwise

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Took another kicking from the car today. As is clear from photo the thread isn't just worn. However, I was able to drill, tap it and feed back in a helicoil then the new conical screw, Andy was kind enough to sent me, would thread in and hold much better. However, some of helicoil was protruding into the hole which the front rod slots into. This meant I couldn't get the front rod in enough so that the holes l, on rod and coupling, lined up. I took the rear rod off again. This time I tried to thread in the helicoil the other way so it wasn't protruding into the hole for the rod. Unfortunately i still couldn't get the rod in enough. Next I unfastened the front rod from the gearstick and tried to remove it. Thinking I could assemble and on the bench. No luck getting it out. Wish I hadn't tried as it was a pain connecting it back. Even with Mrs B working the gearstick still no luck. Maybe tomorrow will bring fresh insight.

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neilbardsley wrote:Today I wondered if I could put a spacer between the latch and trunk to rise the front of the trunk to lower the rear? Couldn't see how to do this otherwise

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Neil - talk to Angus about the trunk- mine was doing the same- there’s a simple remedy