1971 2.2E engine rebuild

[impmad2000]

Looks and sounds excellent. Well done !
I hope it drives as well too; should do !!
One day I'll get there !! Not too sure about RR'ing a 20 mile engine, scary stuff, but at least you'll know its set up right , right from the start.
Cheers
Tim

[mountaingoat]

Awsome thread!

After watching that movie footage and having just booked a session with
Bob Watson for a couple of weeks time. I'm feeling a little uncomfortable.

I guess the T engine wont rev that high, still a scary thought.

Great info on the rebuild and what a result!

[Matt black70]

Well done James, it's scary when your cars on the rollers isn't it, when mine hit the rev limiter I thought something had gone bang it was that abrupt

Matt

[58A - 71E]

Not too sure about RR'ing a 20 mile engine, scary stuff, but at least you'll know its set up right , right from the start.

Yeah i know what you mean Tim, but after Bob had got it running he broke the rings in for about 10/15mins at 2,500rpm before attempting the first run.
The main reason I trailored it down there for commissioning and set up was that I knew the fuelling was completely off on the MFI pump and wanted it setting up right rather than risking doing damage on the new parts. The intention is to put some miles on it and then have a quick power run once things have settled down, see if it will get up to its full 7,100 rpm

[58A - 71E]

Just to round this off I thought I'd add a few omissions from the previous posts and where things are at now.

The Dempsey book is good, but definitely not everything you need (and there are a couple of typos and some dodgy advice). I did find it useful though for reliability upgrades etc such as oil bypass modification, turbo lower valve covers, turbo cam line restrictors, upgraded oil pump, RSR rocker shaft seals, resuable rubber valve cover gaskets, tinwear modification etc all of which I did to mine.
In addtion I did a couple of performance upgrades i.e. head inlet ports to 36mm 'S' spec, throttle bodies the same, 2.2 'S' pistons and cylinders and the resulting extra 20+bhp is good, but the most pleasing bit is the torque curve - really flat all the way from 2,500 - 6,000 rpm

Yesterday I took the engine out again (not planned - clutch failure ) and used the opportunity to retorque the heads, check the tappets, sort out the leaky MFI hard lines from the pump to the injectors (the ends had been plated despite saying not to to the shop ) and the leaky sump plate (not tightened up enough ) after about 250 miles.
So now it is leak free and sounds like a sewing machine

[Bertroex]

James,

bloomin' eck! Dipping in and out of the forum and just catching up on this- its ready already?!

Well done and many happy miles.


Bert

[ThomasTe]

The Dempsey book is good, but definitely not everything you need (and there are a couple of typos and some dodgy advice).

Any specific parts of the book you feel are perticular inaccurate or dodgy?

[58A - 71E]

Thanks to all for the positive comments - its running great and I'm really pleased with it, not least of which 'cos I did it myself!

As for my comment about the Dempsey book there is a list of typos here http://www.101projects.com/911-Rebuild/corrections.htm

"Updates (and Corrections)

Despite many, many reviews by many people, a book of this magnitude cannot unfortunately escape the occasional typo or misprint. We're dedicated to perfection, and want to make sure that you're armed with all the correct information. Below is a list of what has been found in current and previous editions. If you find an error or typo in the book, please feel free to email us so that we can correct it in the future.
Corrections & Notes to the Current Edition
(Red and white cover)

Page 73, Photo 4-11: There is a white dot in the photo without a number. This points to valve stem seals and assorted extra o-rings. The valve stem seals are typically installed by your machine shop when you have your heads rebulit.
Page 84, Photo 4-14: The photo shows a replacement steel stud from Porsche. The steel studs installed in the cases often do not have black paint on them, and look just like the Dilavar studs. Use a magnet to determine which ones you have.
Page 105, first line of text on the page should read "moving the rotor closer to the firing point on the distributor"
Page 215, Bearing Sizes - Rod Bearings (D2). The numbers listed for the 2.0/2.2 and the 2.4/2.7/3.0 are incorrect. They should read:

2.0/2.2
911 (1965-71)
2.4/2.7/3.0 Turbo
911 (1972-77)
911 Turbo (1976-77)
Euro Carrera (1976-77)

Rod Bearings (D2)
Standard 51.971-51.990 51.971-51.990
-0.25mm 51.721-51.740 51.721-51.740
-0.50mm 51.471-51.490 51.471-51.490
-0.75mm 51.221-51.240 51.221-51.240



Rocker Arm Bushings, 901 105 043 98
Porsche doesn't appear to be carrying this part anymore. I'm currently looking for an aftermarket bushing to be used in place of these.
Page 215, item number 21, should be listed as 911 (1978-89)
Page 185 - In the caption for Figure 10-6, the swivel foot is shown on the left, not the right.
Page 120 - Plastigage should be used at the sides of the rods - not in the middle. The rods stretch when under load, and you want to measure the clearances at the side.
Page 160 - Figure 6-11 shows a mirror image of what it should be (chains should point in opposite directions)
Page 169 - Figure 7-14 is slightly misleading. The 0.1mm indicator in the left of the figure represents the valve clearances while setting the cam timing.

Corrections in the First Printing
(all Red Cover with yellow lettering in the title)

Page 38, there are 11 total through-bolts that need to be removed, not 10 as stated in the last sentence of the first paragraph.
Page 200, the rod bolt torque value lists the Porsche spec for the later-style rod bolts (911 1984-89 and Turbo 1978-89). There is a note at the bottom of the page regarding the change in the spec. Some people prefer to use the earlier spec of 50 Nm (36.2 ft-lbs), documented at the bottom of the page.
Page 201, 1973 1/2 911T, engine types 911/91 and 911/96 are listed as having a bore of 90mm instead of the actual value of 84mm.
Page 139, the final torque value for the 1978-89 911 flywheel bolts is incorrectly listed. The actual value should be 90 Nm (66.3 ft-lbs) as is listed in Appendix A.
Page 208: the notation under the cylinder diagram says "cylinder CT." This is a layout marker and has nothing to do with the actual diagram
Page 208, on the same diagram:
- A = tolerance group for cylinder height
- B = tolerance group for cylinder diameter
- C = Manufacturer's Identification
Page 154 - The cam tower nuts should be torqued to 75% of the value listed in Appendix A.
Page 159 - The value 54.8mm should be subtracted, not added to the value. Also, the shim thickness is 0.50mm, not 0.25mm
Page 199 - It should be 915 transmission, not 914 transmission.
Page 77 - The four vertical lines are indicated by the green arrow, not the blue arrow.
Page 216 - The intake and exhaust valves are numbered incorrectly in the photo (1 = Intake, 2 = Exhaust)
Page 204 - The 911SC Rod Bearing Journals should be 53.020-53.059 for the bore, and 52.971-52.990 for the shaft
Page 204 - The 3.2/3.3 Rod Bearings Bore should be 55.020-55.059
Page 77 - The Turbo pump has a larger pressure side as well as a larger scavenge side.
Page 16 - "...when the cylinder heads have broken..." should read "...when the cylinder head studs have broken..."
Page 112 - 44 Weber Carb should read 40 Weber Carb
Page 112 - Typo "modifications"
Page 183 - Section Heading should be "REAR ENGINE MOUNT BAR" or simply "ENGINE MOUNT BAR"
Page 197 - "...you let the clutch out..." should be "...you let the clutch pedal out..."
Page 119/120 - "Plastigage" spelled incorrectly
Page 82 - Glass plate method is described in Chapter 5, Section 9
Page 180 - Valve Covers, 13mm hardware should be 8mm hardware
Page 153 - Figure 5-9 shows an area that is larger than needs to be covered with the sealant. The flat surfaces of the heads shown in the figure directly above it are what need to be sealed. In reality, the horizontal bars on the cam towers (on the ends and in-between the cylinders) do not need to be coated. If you follow the diagram, you will use more sealant than you need to - possibly creating a messy situation.
Page 73 - Valve cover gaskets should be listed as 25/26 in Figure 4-1.

In addition, my observations -

When installing the rods - I weighed them and matched them the the corresponding weighed pistons (incl gudgeon pin) to ensure maximum balance (i.e. combined weights) and installed the heaviest at the flywheel end - not mentioned in the book

The book advocates using Curil T when installing the seals on the number 8 bearing and the flywheel crank seal - a reputable engine builder advised against this and instal them dry

Applying the case sealer to mate the case halves - I did not follow the pattern shown, I did not apply any to the webs around the crank (the inner most bits shown) as I didn't want it squeezing into the bearings (again another tip passed onto me)

Use of silicon - there are couple of times Wayne uses black silicon, there are some people on here that absolutely wont let the stuff near there car as it ends up stuck in cam spray bars etc

Mating heads to cylinders - I dont remember reading anything about checking that they lap (i.e. make a really good seal) with each other - this is critical otherwise you might as well not bother doing it, in my case both the heads and the BRAND NEW barrels needed machining!

Head studs - if they are torqued on correctly (see JohnM's rebuild post) they wont need the amount of checks (3)that the book says you need to do to them

Assembly of heads - the book advises getting the shop to do them, it would have been nice to see what it involved so you can do it yourself (which I did)

Tensioners - ok it couldnt be clearer that he only advises using pressure fed carrera tensioners, but if you use mechanical ones the bleeding procedure is not described (including the proper tools to do it) so you need to find that info elsewhere (trying to do them the same way as the carrera ones is NOT correct)

Rocker shafts - the book acknowledges there are differences of opinion on this, but advises to prelube them - the majority of opinion says install DRY

Replacement of parts - there are some parts that I dont believe need changing that are advised to in the book unless they are totally knacked which is unusual i.e. number 8 nose bearing, valve springs

Attaching heat exchangers/exhaust - ok the text says dont do it with the engine upturned but the photo does shows it upside down, best thing is to install them with the engine correct way up

As I said, I think the book is excellent and this is not intended to discredit it - but I would use it as a guide not gospel, and check out advice for every step from professional engine builders and acknowledged experts on here, Pelican etc

Cheers