DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

I think I'll need the trailing arm out of the car to press the monoballs in - what would I leave on/take off there in order to make this manageable?

I could do with knowing before I start because if I am going to have to remove them then I'll need to loosen them off before I jack the car up

Mark - review my post where I disconnect the CV from the stub axle that has 4 or 6 bolts leaving the arm to come off with the stub axle and brakes etc.

However they changed the design at some point IIRC so they driveshaft and CV are all one part. I think then you have to remove the nut.

You will need JB Weld for the ER bushings ?

Removing old bushings not easy in-situ so I would look to get on the bench. How about bearings at same time?

HTH

Ian

I didn't realise the later cars changed and the axle/CV was one unit.... would it be easier just to undo the bolts holding the inboard CV and removing the A-arm & driveshaft as one ? Don't know how easy this is though as I don't know what other differences occur with the G50 box ??

I think it would still be wise to undo the axle nut though, as the last thing you need is to get the car disassembled and then find you need it undoing

Anyway, at least we've given you ideas on how to undo / do up the rear axle nut now

Yes I think I'm going to have to remove it - many thanks for the comments - probably going to make a start today then do a few hours each day over the next week until it's all done.

I've charged up the camera so will try and remember to take pics

I needed to turn this :-



into this :-



so another afternoon / early evening of cleaning and painting was in order.

The box of dirty parts had been kept after the control arms and hubs had been separated and the bearings removed. Everything is cleaned and kept for reference purposes, so I know what to buy / replace in future.

I dispensed with the trusty red bucket, and today decided upon the old green one, as a container for the red Jizer Degreaser.



All parts are soaked, brushed and then removed to drain on newspaper.



They are then washed off in soapy water (I like to use Fairy Lemon to freshen up the garage ) and rubbed down with wet-n-dry.



Next the painting.......

Ian

I mask the bearing mating surfaces (or shiny bits that look as though they need to be kept shiny ) and am ready to prime.



And then we apply the first coat of grey primer :-



wait a short while and flip them over :-



and also do the hubs :-



Next the Satin Black top coat........

Ian

I used Halfords Satin Black for the top coat, to better match the powder coat finsh I have elsewhere, although I know that these parts will not really be seen when on the car







Two coats applied to each side :-





Finally remove the masking and we are done until they are fully dried in the morning.



Slowly but surely we are geting there.

Ian

Allowed the parts to dry overnight and then did a quick assembly to see what the finished item will look like - although i've said it before, but nobody will see them under the brake disk.







Ian

The end of the cleaning is in sight, as today I completed the final bag of parts, these from the rear handbrake and minor other parts.

Usual drill, green bucket and jizer, followed by a good rinse off and some wet-n-dry and Solvol Autosol etc.

The springs and nuts & bolts will be added to one final yellow zinc batch run I will be getting done shortly - I want to make sure it is just one more load.

Hubs are in for a final wash off of grease and the bag of nasties awaits :-







Everything done with Jizer and then rinsed :-





Finally some detail shots.

Front Hubs :-





Brake Adjusters and Cable 'Feeders' :









I am still a long way from the re-assembly, as all the under wheel arch area needs to be done with Jizer and Black Stone Chip etc. and for that the temparature needs to be warmer as I have to do that outside.

Ian

It has been a while until I had more to post re: refurbishment, as I have been busy with the 'Inner Wing Refurbishment' project.

However, today I collected the rear trailing arms from Tuthills who have pressed in new bearings and the hubs, leaving me to tighten the bolt on to the driveshaft when back in the car.



I also have the front bearings pressed in, but they are covered to keep any dirt out.



There seems to be more of the car in the garage than outside, so I really need to get to the third phase of Rebuilding or Re-assembly soon.






Ian

I'm replacing the control arms on my '70 911T to aluminium, and it's proven to be a bit more of an *ache than i irst expected but threads like this are great!

two (well it started out as two)things i found;

1)the alloy arms have a different handbrake mounting plate, so i had to order a set of them to complete the install. Job done, i thought...

2.) The alloy arm handbrake mounting plates d not use the same strengthening bracket plate as the old ones (i'd like to have the little smiley that slaps its forehead inserted here ) so now i need to source them as well

3) don't mount the hubs before yu've mounted the handbrake plate etc....

4. ) I believe that the guide tube for the handbrake is diferent between alu and steel. The '70 one i have is a little loose in the alu arm.. (slap orehead smiley here please) can someone confirm this?

apart rom the above it's been fairly smooth sailing

I am prety sure I will be OK, but famous last words and all that.

I retained all the brake and hub components that came with the alloy arms, and sold those went with my steel arms so exchanged more than just the arms themselves.

Still some way from fitting mine though

Ian