DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

A little work on the pressure fed tensioners to do the "jerry woods" mod ( explained on pelican) pretty basic really just a spacer to hold the piston up to a highest possible position if the oil pressure drops or something else untoward happens.

setting up to fit the no 1 and 6 inlet rockers ( rest later after I've checked clearances)

All set up to time the cams a bit of an overview of this well documented process , you can see my home brewed clock holding tool and will note its in imperial so lots of transfer calcs and counting revs carefully to get it right I hope that 5.2 mm lift is 0.208 inches

Fabulous work & attention to detail Andy - really looking forward to seeing the car 'on the road' ...

I'm looking forward to his Cam Timing for Dummies (aka 911hillclimber) process.

I'm STILL lapping in valves and shimming spring heights.....writing this for a break.

OK "cam timing for dummies" ( dont forget the later engines that were designed for different induction and cam fitting are different)

Both cams fitted
Base time cams. ie woodruff keys at top, drive gear all fitted and timing pin in at notional correct position, spring washer and nut fitted both sides, chain tensioner in on rhs tensioner arm clamped up to hold tension with vise grip on lhs
No 1 cylinder TDC
Z1 mark in line with case split line
Fit cylinder 1 and 6 rockers
Set tappet clearance on cylinder 1 inlet
Ensure tappet clearance on cylinder 6 inlet is backed right off
Set clock on valve spring retainer cylinder no 1 inlet
Zero clock
Wind motor over via crankshaft pulley nut I full rev back to Z1 clock wise.
Watch clock whilst turning and determine total lift.
Record
Identify if you have too much or too little lift from your cam spec.
Remove cam nut taking car to hold camshaft still with a cam holding tool
Pull out timing pin.
Rotate cam shaft to increase or decrease lift value to specification( the cam sprocket will stay still since in removing the pin you have disconnected its drive)
When clock reads correct lift insert cam timing pin into best fit hole.
Refit washer and nut ( no need to torque yet just tight will do)
Rotate motor a full revolution clockwise back to TDC comp No1and Z1 aligned
Clock should be back to zero
Rotate motor one full revolution clockwise back to Z1 aligned
Clock should now read correct total lift.

The motor is now set and ready ( Z1 aligned and no 6 on tdc compression) to have inlet rocker clearance set on no6 and the clock transferred to that valve and zeroed.

Do it all again for the rhs, torque up cam nuts and fit lhs tensioner ( be REALLY careful not to let cam rotate hold it still with the cam holding tool)

Never done a later engine though ?????

PS if its wrong don't blame me I wrote this from memory I usually just follow a Dempsey book, always take extreme care rotating untimed engines if it doesn,t want to rotate there will be a reason and it could be a valve on a piston. Oh and don't forget after all this you have to check valve to piston clearance and maybe strip it down all over again

Andy, thanks for your comments, I'm working as hard as family and finance will allow now since I want to drive it on my 50th in early november ( if its not raining) . About time for some 904 updates too methinks....

Thanks for the guide!
Much the same for the 3.2 but cam nut is a real one but need to make a holder.
Usually take the long block down to Bob Watson's for timing but want to DIY it really.

STILL lapping and measuring.
Spring shims @ 0.5mm thickness makes for a crude adjustment.

Hi, its really not difficult to do just get prepared, check and double check each step and be prepared to go over it several times . I always do it when the wife and kids are absent and I've got no pressure.
If you think I can be any help even as a point of reference for discussion pm me and I'll give you my number.I really can't see how a person with your obvious skill would need to farm this out.

cheers

andy

Checked the valve to piston clearance this evening .........2 mm inlet 1.5 mm exhaust......bit tight on exhaust methinks any opinion gratefully received since I dont really have a feel for what is or isn;t acceptable. It may be possible to time the cams slightly differently but with new chains as I have it will shift a bit as they stretch trouble is I've got brain fade and can't see if thats to my advantage or not ?

Tech advice post coming ....

Ok valve timing now set at 5.4 mm and exhaust valve clearance tolerable so onwards.

Here is a snap of a simple method to fill the first volume in a hydraulic tensioner. The volume under the piston was filled prior to fitting the unit this just proves its as full as it can be before start up.


here you can see the oil lift the little valve and flow out


here are the carb chokes bored from 32 mm to 35 ( I know its not standard but 36 is considered too big and 34 marginal so this seemed pragmatic) They aren't straight bored the taper angle was calculated to give the correct throat size then the throat radius put on. ( I'm not showing the one I cocked up ) I 've got the starting point jets from fast road performance so it should at least run after a fashion.




got to turn a spacer for the oil sump cover now.

TTFN

There are some interesting weber mods in the Gerry Anderson book while those float chambers are open...
Why is your re-build so straight forward when I'm having a real fight due to some specialists?

Looking great. Should be following your cam timing guide this weekend.

I dont have the book, whats it called? Sorry to hear you're having problems...care to share?

I think Graham means Bruce Anderson ...

Yep - Gerry Anderson mods are quite different

Mark