Engine re build book

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58A - 71E
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Post by 58A - 71E »

roy mawbey wrote: James with his 356A did some fantastic work on the mechanicals and I don't think its his main job?Roy
thanks Roy :) no, porsching is definitely not related to my day job

Key to it was correct tools, research, tools, books and tools - did I mention correct tools :wink:

I used the workshop manual, Harry Pellow DVDs and Elfrink - Elfrink especially helpful for gearbox and running gear

Get stuck in and good luck!
James

'58 356A 1600n
'71 911E 2,2


#0335
curbo

Post by curbo »

Big thanks to Stuart for the CD's :-)
Bruce M
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Post by Bruce M »

If you've never opened up an engine, stripped, cleaned and reassembled one then a practise run would be a good idea.

However, forget the moggy engine and get a cheap 1200cc beetle engine. This will be far more useful experience.

Lots of freezer bags. A plastic tub for cleaning parts. Cable ties to keep sets of shims/ washers / nuts together. Get a hardback note book and keep notes.

Part of the experience is inspecting all parts for wear and measuring them up. The list of special tools isn't too bad I think and most are pretty cheap (compared to more modern cars especially)

Good luck and take your time!
roy mawbey
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Post by roy mawbey »

Okay guys I have translated the pages and below is the text. Please remember its a guide only, they do not go into great detail and I presume the guy knows what he is talking about. As I said before, taking apart is one thing puttting back together is a different story. They make no mention of the special inspection tools as for example a plug guage to check the valve guides. You can find out the limits but without the guage...

Photo One: Main description of the work involved:

FULLY LAID OUT.
Wolfgang Reile of Classic Power (in 1995) details the way he strips down a 616/15 engine of 75 hp 1600cc from a 356C equipped with Zenith 32NDIX carbs. He often hears the question of "how long to strip down an engine to all of its parts" . Do you need special tools and known procedures to make it easier.
After the engine is removed from the car, the engine should be placed on the correct engine stand so you can reach all areas. Tools required include a full set of ring and socket spanners including the large one for the flywheel nut, torque wrench upto 400ft lb, clamping attachment for holding the flywheel stationary, mandrels ( drifts ) for piston removal valve compressor, Rubber faced hammer, screwdrivers etc.
Important to have a suitable place to put all the parts in order and of course a suitable workbench to secure the engine stand holder and tools.
The area in blue on the first page shows all the items layed out on the board.
It takes 3 - 4 hours to take an engine apart not taking into account stubborn nuts, stripped threads etc.

Below the first photo in German of the text above. ( I have only detailed the salient points its not word for word!

Image

Now the second page which shows 8 photos of the stages. I list the description below the page for each operation:
Image
Photo 1
Before starting with spanners with the engine on the stand spray all exhaust clamps and nuts with release agent to help removal. All areas that need spraying should be done first so it has time to work while you clean other parts.
Photo 2.
Remove spark plug cables, drain oil, remove air and oil filter and coil and the 2 Zeniths. Remove the fan housing and generator and front sheet metal pieces.
Photo 3.
With rubber hammer and piece of wood against silencer remove the silencer.
Photo 4.
The heater flapper boxes and exhaust piping can be removed with also the other sheet metal parts. ( this text advises a heat exchanger unit is fitted see the part near the exhaust.)
Photo 5.
Now this heat exchanger can be removed and tested with air or water. If this part fails gases can get into the cars interior. ( Note! I have never seen this item before)
Photo 6.
By this point the sparking plugs are removed and the nuts for the intake manifold will be accessable.The generstor bracket and oil feed line can be removed.
Photo 7.
Now the generator belt pully and fuel pump as well as the distributor and clutch can be removed.
Photo 8.
With the correct socket and torque wrench the flywheel can be removed which has been locked in position by the special tool.

( The next 2 pages of info will be posted onto the thread tomorrow )

Roy
RHD 356A coupe super 75 106954
roy mawbey
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Post by roy mawbey »

Continuation of the engine strip down information

Page 3.

Image
Photo 9.
Keyparts on the 356 are the cylinder heads. Firstly the rocker arms and rocker spindle are removed.
Photo 10.
Then after loosing all the screws all around the cylinder heads can be be carefully removed.
Photo 11.
Now follows the dis-assembly of the cylinders and pistons. Important that the markings on the components are carefully noted and kept in the right order for correct assembly later on.
Photo 12.
Now the gudgeon pins securing the pistons can be withdrawn. For this its recommended the piston body is heated with warm air so that he gudgeon pin can be lightly pushed out with the special mandrel ( drift )
Photo 13.
After this carefully remove the pistons.
Photo 14.
The following next opweration is the removal of the oil cooler.
Photo 15.
The oil pump and connecting woodruff key csn be removed. ( note! oil pumps vary in type on 356 engines)
Photo 16.
For the end 3rd piece casting removal, after loosening all the screws with the rubberhead hammer lightly tap the top and bottom faces of the casting equally.
Photo 17.
Now can the oil sump filter and sieve be removed. (If the sieve is to be changed make use of the old one!)

Page 4.

Image

Photo 18.
Now together the bolts on the crankcase halves the tie rod screws can also be removed. ( zugankerschraube I think translates as tie rod. I think its the casting area which is like a solid rod?)
Photo 19.
The crankcase housings are seperated in a workman like way! by using a soft hammer on the ENGINE STAND till the housing joints strat to open up.
Photo20.
The crankcase halves as a rule are esay to take apart.
Photo 21.
On the view one sees the freed crankshaft the camshaft and the tappets.
Photo 22.
And now without probelm the items can be withdrawn from the second crankcase half.
Photo 23.
After that the crankshaft with connecting rods csn be clamped in a special assembly fixture. ( if you have one!!!!)
Photo 24.
The connecting rods allow easy dismantling and the condition of the bearings can be inspected.
Photo 25.
Cylinder head components can be removed with the use of a special valve compressor attachment and the use of a magnetic rod to pick up the valve cotters.
Photo 26.
To conclude, the valves the valve seats and the valve guides can be inspected for wear. ( remember my points above! it needs plug guages, valve cutters special methods to insert new valve guides and experience to get it right. That is providing the valve seats don't need replacing. Thats another very special job!!)

Roy
RHD 356A coupe super 75 106954
cubist
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Post by cubist »

Fantastic Roy! Many thanks for all the scanning work - what a pain!!!

Lets get this in the stickies... :wink:
C U B I S T - 1 1 1 5

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Winston Teague
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Post by Winston Teague »

I've found 'Engine Blueprinting' by Rick Voegelin very helpful. It is not about Porsche engines but much more general. It does explain all the processes however. Was cheap and easy to get, part of the S-A Design range of soft cover books. Don't be put off, do it your self, carefully, or give it to the best professional. Nowhere in between. There are many 'bluffers' out there and if you end up with one of those you will be out of pocket and still no further forward. You will find it enjoyable and satisfying, and at the end you will understand how many hours go in to doing a good job! Some of the 356 pros may be willing to be paid a few hours to 'measure, inspect and advise' once its stripped and clean, if so bite their arm off! Good luck and keep us posted. W
Winston
'61 356 BT5 & a lot of broken chain driven stuff
58A - 71E
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Post by 58A - 71E »

roy mawbey wrote:Sorry this is now in such a mess, can anyone clean it up.
:wink:

Roy, the only problem you have is using too many [img] in the code - when you copy from photobucket you dont need to insert the tags again just right click and copy - seemples :)
cubist wrote:Fantastic Roy! Many thanks for all the scanning work - what a pain!!!

Lets get this in the stickies... :wink:
This post (and a few others) have now been added to the technical quick links sticky :wink:
Last edited by 58A - 71E on Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:07 am, edited 2 times in total.
James

'58 356A 1600n
'71 911E 2,2


#0335
dcraigmyle
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engine rebuild

Post by dcraigmyle »

Try my blog site for some info on engine rebuilding.

http://porsche356enginebuild.blogspot.c ... -results=2

David
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