DDK - Die Deutschen Klassiker

Do I need to purchase just the front wheel bearing kit (2 wheels in one kit) and two rear wheel bearings ?

Does anything else need to be replace ?

What grease do I use in the bearings ?

Any advise on re-assembly - like how on earth do I torque the stub axle in to the rear hub - do I need a pro for this ?

Ian

Can someone kindly identify the metal parts from the front hub assembly for me ?

I have looked on PET but am unclear as to exactly which piece is which.

Ian

With a few spare hours, and awful weather outside, I decide to tackle the first of the rear control arms.

Approach ended up being Paint Strip, Wire Brush, Marine Clean, Scotchbrite / Wet & Dry, electric drill soft wire brush and finally autosol polish - 3 hours to do the first one.

The Nitromors paint stripper gets to work on the old paint or underseal :-





Working one side at a time, and now after the wire bruish :-





Once both sides are stripped and wire brushed, it is in to the trust old red bucket filled with POR Marine Clean :-





Bearing surface looking good :-



Ian

Next up is the wet & dry, which removes a lot of in grained dirt etc:-





To remove any stubborn old paint etc. I used a soft wire brush on the electric drill :-











Finally I finished off with a quick go over with autosol metal polish, and here is the before and after :-





I am sure they could be polished like chrome, but I just wanted clean natural alloy so am pleased with this effort. I will do the other one next weekend earliest, as work to do and then the NEC Classic CAr Show.

Ian

Highfield wrote:

Ian

Nice job there Ian, can I send you mine?

It had been too long since I last got anything cleaned up on the car, so decided Boxing Day was a good day to finish up the other Control Arm.

Same procedure as for the previous post, and so I now have a nice clean pair ready to receive their new bearings and ER Weather-sealed mono balls.







Ian

Interesting Ian - I'm planning to install my elephant rear monoballs and polybronze rear bushes next week-end

Have you any idea about torqing that stub axle nut? Bentley talks about torquing it to 300 - 320NM (if its' the castellated nut and 460NM if its' a self- locking nut! Just checked mine and it's a self- locking one so I'd need to produce 460NM torque!

My big torque wrench goes up to 150

Any ideas?

Large socket & breaker bar + a length of scaffold bar.

For tightening, you can use a bathroom scales to work out the torque you are
exerting - change in weight x length of bar used = torque (in whatever units you
are using, lbs.feet or metres.kilogram). ( 1Kg = approx 10N )

Eg , 2 meter length bar ( axle to end) needs 23kg force , so stand on scales, make a note of how fat you are, then apply an upward force on the bar which in effect will make you heavier .... keep applying force until you are applying ( in this example) 23Kg over & above your weight

or , 1 meter needs 46Kg etc

Its not highly accurate, but close enough IMHO

And THAT'S why I love this forum - thanks for that James - saves spending £500+ on a suitable torque wrench!

make sure nothing slips off .... if it does you can suddenly end up making a nice scratch in your wing with the pole

Another alternative is a torquemeister tool which is availble

http://www.356registry.org/Tech/axle_nut_removal.html

Mark .. why do you want to remove the axle nut if you are only replacing the bushes ?

I may cheat and get Tuthills to fit the bushings and torque the nuts.

Good question James as just removing spring plate should do for you Mark - we will need pics and words for me to follow

Note that 1NM = 0.73 ft/lbs

So 310nm = 229ft/lbs give or take so you could stand on a 2 foot bar Mark as you are not a fatty

Ian

hot66 wrote:Mark .. why do you want to remove the axle nut if you are only replacing the bushes ?

Because I'm doing the monoballs at the same time - for that I'll need to remove the trailing arms - If I can do this without removing the axle nut that would be great but I don't think I can

Cheers

Mark

Highfield wrote: So 310nm = 229ft/lbs give or take so you could stand on a 2 foot bar Mark as you are not a fatty

Ian

Thanks for that Ian - but I'll need to get to 460 NM

I'm planning to do a write-up - just need to make sure I take the camera into the garage

sladey wrote:

hot66 wrote:Mark .. why do you want to remove the axle nut if you are only replacing the bushes ?

Because I'm doing the monoballs at the same time - for that I'll need to remove the trailing arms - If I can do this without removing the axle nut that would be great but I don't think I can

Cheers

Mark

you don't need to remove the axle nut .