USA 1970 911T - the Tangerine Dream

[RobFrost]

I'm afraid I may have discovered a new addiction... replacing rusty old bolts with shiny new passivated galvanised ones. It shouldn't have felt quite as good as it did to see those yellow hexagons on there.

Shown here loosely holding the linkage in place before the top cover went on.



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[RobFrost]

Very little to do with the 911 but I had to share this massive win with somebody. Five pairs of top brand, heavy duty mole grips off ebay for £37.99. I feel like I've robbed someone.

Now I can weld mole grips to my headlamp bowls in style.


EDIT: Sorry, I just realised they accepted my best offer of £30.00, the fools. Even more of a bargain.

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[Gary71]

You can never have too many clamps. Result.

I found I was buying more clamps every other week as I progressed my resto…

[RobFrost]

The short shaft is awkward to move, pity you did not set the box in a gear before detaching the coupling.

The box you have I think is a dog leg 1st, so 3rd is to the left of the H and back on the lever.
Put the coupling on the box and tighten. Easier to manipulate the box this way.
It must be loose to the shift tube from the gear lever.

Find neutral so obviously this is the plane across the H
Looking straight at the end of the gearbox shaft...

Hope I'm right here, twist the coupling across the neutral plane anti clockwise fully and push it towards the gearbox. It should go in about 10 or 15mm and be set in position by the detent ball within the box.
The box should then be in 3rd gear

Move the lever to 3rd and tighten the clamp sleeve.
Move the lever to check you can select all the gears. Start the engine and select each gear to see if they all are correct by carefully slipping the clutch and move a few feet.
Reverse and first should be easy, 2/3 rd harder and 4/ that really hard to move.

Good luck!

Just re-reading this. For the benefit of any future readers, turning the shaft fully anticlockwise (as you face the back of the car) in a 901 seems to get you reverse and first. Come back a bit to the centre and you get second and third. FWIW I pushed into the gearbox which in theory is second gear. Then I pushed the gear stick forward into second and tightened the coupling there.

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[RobFrost]

This genuine Porsche tool roll was delivered today. The car came with no tools whatsoever so I'll put something relatively "correct" together.

I'll try and replace the rusted rivets in this.


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[RobFrost]

This is the start of installing the Carrera 3.2 oil pressure sender. I'm putting this here rather than taking out the pressure switch on top of the engine because every time you take away part of the original car it loses a little bit of magic.

Washers are required either side of the block to ensure a seal. Apparently it's a bad idea to unscrew the sender from its little mounting block while fitted to the car, as it has been known to break the corner off the engine case.


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[RobFrost]

I was a bit gutted that this pipe didn't fit back on. The kink in the pipe was interfering with the right hand cam cover. I had to cut around 7mm off the end, which means it may not be possible to return it to stock.

But on the other had, it enabled me to use the new olive and the extra security an oil pressure gauge gives the engine is worth it on balance.


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[RobFrost]

All in place - the engine runs and it doesn't leak touch wood. Resistance at idle is 100 ohms and with the engine off is 9 ohms - so the difference seems promising.

I wonder where I can find reference resistance values for a carrera 3.2 oil sensor now, or a compatible gauge?


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[RobFrost]

I've read somewhere min and max resistance for that sender are 10 ohms an 170 ohms respectively. Doing a few sums - if resistance increases on a linear scale with pressure that puts my idle pressure at around 3 bar. But if it's a logarithmic scale it puts my pressure at around 4 bar. I guess either is relatively healthy for a 50 year old engine at warm idle?

[RobFrost]

Knowing it was siezed, I budgeted an hour to get this bolt out before I would cut the bodywork around it. I didn't want to weld on to it as the original belt is in great condition.

After a steady escalation of tools the pneumatic chisel eventually did the trick a few minutes before its deadline.

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[RobFrost]

I'm going to view this hole as a great opportunity to clean some of the gunk off the transmission that I couldn't reach from below.

Also, the crossmember is in fabulous shape.

I'm not entirely comfortable with welding so close to the magnesium transmission. I think I'll insert a wet towel before doing so.


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[RobFrost]

Most annoying about gashing my finger on a cut panel isn't the pain, it's a) the fact I was thinking I ought to put some gloves on moments earlier but I never did, and b) this injury will be a hindrance to me over the coming week or so.

Also note: swarfega in cuts hurts.


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[RobFrost]

And there we have it - that one little drip from the rear windscreen is the cause of all this work.

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[RobFrost]

When I bought the car it was just a given that these naff old seats would go. But after driving a hundred miles in them, I can honestly say they're the comfiest car seats I've EVER been in.

They seem to be Recaro, and there's a pair on ebay for over £2,000 right now - the mind boggles.

The "TURBO" embroidery I kind of like, in an ironic post-modern kind of way. In reality they will eventually have to go but I can see myself driving the car with these in for a good long time.


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[RobFrost]

Cutting away the corroded side panel for the seat to mount to, I've clearly been lucky again because the inner structural component is completely solid. I coated it with high zinc weld-through paint.

To get the thin panel off I cut part way through with the disc and then was able to fatigue it off the rest of the way with mole grips.


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