8000 rpm/300 bhp 3.2 rebuild

[RobFrost]

The garage is getting as messy as Rob's

Not even close. Come back when you can't see the floor.


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[911hillclimber]

Time to crack on a bit with this engine.

Have all the bits, the tools and with my head clear, time for the rod installation.
Never done this before, so a bit new, but quite straightforward save for a few things...
The Carrillo bolts are pre-assembled to the rods, so they all needed cracking loose and one by one removed. I weighed the rods.
They are all within 0.5 gram of each other.

Mounted the crank on an old flywheel horizontal in the vice. I think this was a good move.

Cleaned the first rod journal, the rod faces and he new shell faces, assembled the lot with a nice smear of assy lube and snugged the freshly greased bolts to 12 lbft.
Rods slipped round the crank a treat.

With my home modified DTI, set the gauge to Zero and the limit markers to Zero and 0.170mm, the amount the bolt has to be stretched to.

One bolt at a time applied the torque (wrench set at 75 lbft) with a fresh 1/2" 12 point socket. The torque level to reach this stretch is considerable.

In 3 steps got to 0.17mm stretch. Quite hard work!
Second bolt on the same rod, again a fight to get 0.17mm, only 10 more to go!

Eventually got all on the crank and all at 0.16/0.17 mm finally resorting to a LONG breaker bar and judgement.

Watched a video the other day and the tech said make sure you are strong enough to do the job. Now I know what he meant.

Job done and all rods slip round the crank.
Used up 3 sockets in this, the new Sealey one lasted 3 bolts, 2 others a further 3, and my old Britool 1/2 finished the rest off with ease. It is of course British made and 50 years old.

Have to say, pleased that is over with.

Case assembly next.

[Gary71]

Case halves. Sounds like a great activity to keep out of the way on Xmas day!

[911hillclimber]

No chance, have daughter and hubbie over for the Big Turkey, and for once I can have more than one glass of Red as I'm not driving.

Planning to make the short block on Boxing day or Monday after.

Nothing more exciting than all those case bolts in 40 minutes!

[andytat]

Looking good Graham!

[911hillclimber]

Well, all is not well.

Doing #3 Rod, first bolt all was well up to 0.155mm stretch, and while adding a touch more torque to get to 0.17mm the bloody socket gave way bruising the body heads 12 points badly.
Bolt #2 was perfect, just as all the other have been.
This really irritates, and I cannot hold the socket to the head hard enough to stop it slipping off.

I emailed Carrillo who will not say at all 0.155mm is ok, no surprise as it is out of spec.

My only choice is to divise a clamp to stop the socket winding off the bolt and get that extra torque applied or to buy 2 new bolts and redo this rod.

Everyone is closed or closing for Xmas inc the USA so if the clamp attempt tomorrow fails, it will all be stalled until January.

Bad news and very dissapointing, just my luck.

The socket gave up.

Well, I still think I will be ok for the finish of the engine by end Jan.

Merry Xmas!

[KS]

Graham, I am amazed when you speak of a long extension bar, slipping or breaking sockets, etc. I’ve used Carillos in the past and never had those kind of problems. I presume you’re lubricating the threads when torqueing up the bolts? ARP usually supply a small quantity of thread lube to stop the thread grabbing and giving a false reading.

[911hillclimber]

Yes, the bolts are pre greased by Carrillo as they ship with the bolts torqued to 18 lbft.

The bolts were re-greased using the supplied Carrillo grease, taken to 15 lbft to seat the cap/bearings/rod and the gauge set to Zero.
The bolt torqued to stretch to 0.177mm beyond 'zero'
The torque to get there is about 75 lbft.

The Carrillo instructions state the stretch will be at about 75 lbft

That is hard to pull evenly with a 3/8" torque wrench.
A 1/2" torque wrench head is too big to go on the bolt head and allow a straight pull to the head so I had to use a short extension.
While pulling the 3rd rod's one cap bolt I lost the straight pull and the socket rode up the shallow 12 point head.

I can't hold the socket on the head while getting to last 0.02mm, it slips at 0.155mm

All other bolts are at 0.177mm

I'm going to try to clamp the socket to the rod bolt to get the last pull to 0.175mm tomorrow. If I scrap the bolt then I'll have to wait for the USA to come off Xmas break.

Disappointing as I can't build the short block. So close, but so very far.

The rods are beautifully made, but the head of the bolts are very shallow. These bolts are the strongest they make so take a lot to stretch, hence the high torque to get the stretch.

[Bruce M]

Is this due to the torque force being offset from the counter torque (in the threads), so the socket is tipping away from the bolt head?

If so, this is where a flex head ratchet really helps. Even with an extension, you can pivot the ratchet handle so you are applying force in line radially with the threads so the socket doesn’t not tip.

A regular breaker bar can obviously do the same trick.

[911hillclimber]

Dead right, the handle of the breaker bar can tilt down so to be in line to the bolt head and not 4" above it. The rod is not fixed, but free to move and at these height torques, hard to keep control.

The bolts done using the bar and my old Britool 1/2" socket allowed me to stay close to the head and control was great.

We are where we are so to speak.
I'll buy to new bolts in early Jan and re-do the rod.
The 2 week delay has to be swallowed, but I think I can get this engine back together and in the car by end Jan which will be fine.

I have to get it up and tuned by end of March.

[RobFrost]

Really sorry to hear about your woes Did you grease the underside of the bolt head? Also, if you use the stretch method, there's no need for a torque wrench, right?

[RobFrost]

Also, maybe I imagined it, but have I seen crow's foot spanners used to do this job?

[wadsworthi]

Sorry to hear of your issue with the bolts. I see that FVD do have both type of bolts in stock in Germany, not sure if they are still open today.

[911hillclimber]

I'm out of Jail!

Woke up this morning, 30 Weetabix, and to the garage.
Buggered if this was going to beat me.

Decided on a plan.
Problem was to stop the socket/spanner from winding off the 12 point bolt head when the high torque was applied.
Found an old but good small forged steel clamp, modified the screw on my 1937 lathe to locate (with a small pip) onto the bolt end. Pip is to stop slipping off. and located to the small drilling already there in the bolt end.

Fit a good (Snap-On) ring spanner over the bolt head and pinch (not clamp) the spanner to the whole assembly, the picture below shows it better than my words.

Remove the test fit. Fit the stretch gauge, set it to Zero. I knew the bolt was up to 0.155mm stretch when the socket slipped, so just needed another 0.02mm to get to the 0.175 spec.
Re-assembled the spanner and the pinch clamp and added a tube so the leverage I had was the same as the breaker bar I used for the other bolts. The bar is far longer than the 1/2" torque wrenh I was using purely for leverage reasons.

Wound on more torque and felt the movement as I did on the other 11 bolts yesterday, stripped everything and remeasured the bolt. It has stretched 0.02mm! (see picture)

No slipping of the spanner and a bolt recovered to the correct stretch, same as all the others.

Job Done.

Suitably chuffed, cleaned and installed the crank assembly to the case with new bearings and sealant round the seals; oil pump and intermediate gear in with fresh chains and bearings and pump torqued up tight (and new oil seal!), new home made tab washers completed the day.

Whole lot covered over with a clean black dustbin liner to keep things fresh.

Parts slowly moving from the 3rd bedroom down to the garage, empty boxes everywhere.

Off out tonight to meet with old friends for a nice scoff and lots of car talk and bullshit.

[sladey]

Well done Graham - always good to solve problems