Brake upgrade ???
Brake upgrade ???
Hi all
I have been out quite a lot with the family in the 356A T1 recently. However the main problem I seem to face constantly is that when braking hard it loves to pull to the right into on coming traffic.
I have constantly tried to sort this but adjusting the brakes and bleeding them etc.... and it was fine when it was MOTd last month, but it seems to like to try to catch me out when I do not need it !!!
One thought is to upgrade to discs up front as this should banish the pulling problem - right?
If this is the case is anyone aware of a way of doing this retaining the standard stud pattern etc.......... ?
Also how would this affect the value and originality of the car ???
Thanks for any help
I have been out quite a lot with the family in the 356A T1 recently. However the main problem I seem to face constantly is that when braking hard it loves to pull to the right into on coming traffic.
I have constantly tried to sort this but adjusting the brakes and bleeding them etc.... and it was fine when it was MOTd last month, but it seems to like to try to catch me out when I do not need it !!!
One thought is to upgrade to discs up front as this should banish the pulling problem - right?
If this is the case is anyone aware of a way of doing this retaining the standard stud pattern etc.......... ?
Also how would this affect the value and originality of the car ???
Thanks for any help
Jez
1956 356A
www.356registry.org/Members/Mardle/index.html to see my car but the pics needs updating.
High mileage workhorse 02 Chrysler PT Cruiser CRD
1956 356A
www.356registry.org/Members/Mardle/index.html to see my car but the pics needs updating.
High mileage workhorse 02 Chrysler PT Cruiser CRD
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pointing out the simplest answer here- but you have checked your tyres and pressures, yes ?
if its pulling to the right then something is up with the left side- also try replacing the flexible hose too- they can get clogged like arteries = unequal pressure...........
if its pulling to the right then something is up with the left side- also try replacing the flexible hose too- they can get clogged like arteries = unequal pressure...........
Contact me if you have any 356b coupe parts !!!!
Will check tyre pressures again
Thanks for this info
I will check the tyres pressures first and work my way through the system
Also has anyone used CSP produts - I am sure if they are German they will be top quality due to their tough MOT standards ??
Many thanks for these responses
I will check the tyres pressures first and work my way through the system
Also has anyone used CSP produts - I am sure if they are German they will be top quality due to their tough MOT standards ??
Many thanks for these responses
Jez
1956 356A
www.356registry.org/Members/Mardle/index.html to see my car but the pics needs updating.
High mileage workhorse 02 Chrysler PT Cruiser CRD
1956 356A
www.356registry.org/Members/Mardle/index.html to see my car but the pics needs updating.
High mileage workhorse 02 Chrysler PT Cruiser CRD
I have CSP discs front and rear on my replica. The quality is faultless, and braking power excellent. They now do vented fronts and uprated callipers too.
I also have their uprated master cylinder but i'll give them a black mark for the approach they took to adapting the fluid handling to two front outlets (the mechanical aspects are again faultless) - couldn't get the banjo to seal no matter what I tried (and nor could a fellow builder). Plumbed it differently in the end - made easier by the fact I run a dual remote servo anyhow (so had to split the front brakes after the servo, not before)
I have also found ordering direct from CSP in Germany cheaper in the past.
Simon
I also have their uprated master cylinder but i'll give them a black mark for the approach they took to adapting the fluid handling to two front outlets (the mechanical aspects are again faultless) - couldn't get the banjo to seal no matter what I tried (and nor could a fellow builder). Plumbed it differently in the end - made easier by the fact I run a dual remote servo anyhow (so had to split the front brakes after the servo, not before)
I have also found ordering direct from CSP in Germany cheaper in the past.
Simon
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I still think a well set up 356 drum brake will stop the car almost good as the later "C" disc type.
If the car is pulling you should check the free movement of the wheel cylinders,they have a soft metal insert behind the rubber gaitor that can seize up,also take the drums off and see how much of the brake shoe is coming into contact with the drum,I sometimes linish the brake shoe,then drive the car and re-check to get equal contact.
Also what are the condition of the brake hose's?,old rubber hose's can block/break up causing fluid resrictions.
Hope thats of some help.
If the car is pulling you should check the free movement of the wheel cylinders,they have a soft metal insert behind the rubber gaitor that can seize up,also take the drums off and see how much of the brake shoe is coming into contact with the drum,I sometimes linish the brake shoe,then drive the car and re-check to get equal contact.
Also what are the condition of the brake hose's?,old rubber hose's can block/break up causing fluid resrictions.
Hope thats of some help.
1985 MZ Simson/KH 125 Sprint bike
1302s one family owner
1963 AMC 660 Classic
1957 Peugeot TC4 race bike
Sadly gone:
74' 914/4 2.0
68' SWB 911
1302s one family owner
1963 AMC 660 Classic
1957 Peugeot TC4 race bike
Sadly gone:
74' 914/4 2.0
68' SWB 911
disc brakes
I have a disc brake conversion on my car and we have sold 18 sets with only good results-absolutely brilliant if you change the supplied pads to something good like Mintex or Ferodo. (if you want to try it call me) Possibly you have a partially siezed cylinder, imploding flexible lines tend to hold the brakes on not off. Or grease on the drum-take it off and have a look after your tyre check. Peter Andrews
we came across the same problem on a 54,it turned out to be an oval drum,as everone else says though flexi hoses can cause a lot of problems,also try swapping dums over ,we used to do this on old splitscreen vans somtimes with amazining results,also if it then grabs the other side its a good chance its the drum at fault,as for the csp kits fitted a few and are very good
alex
rmc
alex
rmc
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74 lhd 911 hotrod
65 356 project
71 911 e project
66 912
69 912
54 356
74 lhd 911 hotrod
65 356 project
71 911 e project
66 912
69 912
54 356
Great
Thanks for all your feedback
Looks like I have a bit of work to do !
Anyway, thanks again
All the best
Thanks for all your feedback
Looks like I have a bit of work to do !
Anyway, thanks again
All the best
Jez
1956 356A
www.356registry.org/Members/Mardle/index.html to see my car but the pics needs updating.
High mileage workhorse 02 Chrysler PT Cruiser CRD
1956 356A
www.356registry.org/Members/Mardle/index.html to see my car but the pics needs updating.
High mileage workhorse 02 Chrysler PT Cruiser CRD
Also
Guys
Going through the front end in my head, thinking about what else might be showing age and thus not being 100% when in the braking zone. I bought the car 8 years ago, it was from California and had been imported about 6 months before.
About a year later I was cleaning up the gearbox and changing the boots and found - shock horror - Half of Orange County in the drive shaft boots - sand of all things.............. I have rectified this for now but think a rebuild will be on the cards in the near future.
Anyway I was also thinking that the tyres have not been changed and are at least 8 years old from a dry climate and could be flexing at different rates producing the dive to the right - I suppose a test is to swap them over and then do a test drive as well ???
Regards Jeremy
Going through the front end in my head, thinking about what else might be showing age and thus not being 100% when in the braking zone. I bought the car 8 years ago, it was from California and had been imported about 6 months before.
About a year later I was cleaning up the gearbox and changing the boots and found - shock horror - Half of Orange County in the drive shaft boots - sand of all things.............. I have rectified this for now but think a rebuild will be on the cards in the near future.
Anyway I was also thinking that the tyres have not been changed and are at least 8 years old from a dry climate and could be flexing at different rates producing the dive to the right - I suppose a test is to swap them over and then do a test drive as well ???
Regards Jeremy
Jez
1956 356A
www.356registry.org/Members/Mardle/index.html to see my car but the pics needs updating.
High mileage workhorse 02 Chrysler PT Cruiser CRD
1956 356A
www.356registry.org/Members/Mardle/index.html to see my car but the pics needs updating.
High mileage workhorse 02 Chrysler PT Cruiser CRD
Jez if it's a Cali car, does it have 356 large drums on the rear or has it had smaller beetle drums fitted? A common swap over there but does tend to make the front grab quite fiercely unless backed-off a click on the front adjusters. I might be wrong of course...
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'83 Triumph Acclaim - 3sp Auto (cat D)
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'83 Triumph Acclaim - 3sp Auto (cat D)
Singer 3232 - Titanium bobbin, Autothread
'67 Gresham Flyer - Puncture, rear
Sherbet Lemons - 4oz, loose
Motorola - PG 2000, locked